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Thread: BlackVCG's ULT Thread

  1. #241
    I also just got my ULT and I can't get it to work. I have tried 2, 3, and 4 shims (.005) and can't seem to get it right. I have 3 in right now and the bolt sticks. 2 or 4 shims is even worse. I have oiled up the ULT and the value and still nothing.

    If I put my basic on/off back in my RT fires fine. I'm not sure what the problem is. Plz help!

    I have a RT Pro x-value and ULT.

    Using a 4500 PSI tank

  2. #242
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Manhattan, IL
    Posts
    3,317
    Quote Originally Posted by stevewagner89
    I recently bought the ULT and i got everything ready to go with one shim in, gassed it up, and the trigger didnt reset(didnt let me shoot it) so i tried it with 2 shims, same thing. Tried 3, got one shot of and it didnt reset. Tried 4 shims and nothing happend. So i finally tried 5 shims...still nothing. I am using a classic valve but i thought the only problems with it would be shootdown, not having it not work at all. Please help. Any help would be greatly appriciated.

    lets just put it this way buy a lot at least 10 lvl10 shims and drop all the lvl10 shims and see what happens curently i'm running all my lvl10 shims and all my ULT shims so around 13 shims and i actualty ordered 6more

    ROCKIN THE E-MAG!!!
    ULE warp right body--------Warp Feed
    LVL10--------------------------Xvalve
    3.2 Software------------------Dye Ultralight
    68/3k AirAmerican Flatline ------------Evol2(selling to get halob)
    Clear FryMark Laddie Pannels or Lukes custom emag pannel
    Luke's Warp (bracket), Air, Marker break down-----CP unimount rail

  3. #243

    Arctic...

    Arctic,


    Try different carrier and LX shim combos. Same prob wit mine and now mine werks fine.

    -Paul

  4. #244
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Manhattan, IL
    Posts
    3,317
    ok guys i got some wicked bounce now a day with the ULT in the classic whats up?

  5. #245
    is there like a certain psi that the ult can handle? bewcause it seams that the sear is getting stuck half way when the tank out put is at 800 psi

  6. #246
    Okay I am getting mad bolt stick (thats where the bolt will not recock, right?)....currently have a drilled retro, tried 3 lvl10 shims, worked alright, if it were not for the bolt stick...I lubed it too...argh...

    I have a rt pro..by the way...
    Last edited by Castor Troy; 08-11-2004 at 07:17 PM.

  7. #247
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    MTV, Ohio
    Posts
    240
    ok i have all 5 ULT shims in and it still short strokes really bad and doesnt want to reset, should i try sticking a level 10 shim in too
    TPA Kidz
    04 Vision Shocker

  8. #248
    Hi. I'm new to the forum and I loved it. I read this thread after I bought the ult hoping to buy a tac one later (i got it for a very good price). then I decide to try it in my automag valve. Well after reading almost all the posts, having problem with shot down and analizing the valve I came to the conclusion that the best think to do was to shorten the valve pin. So I did. I removed exactly .03" from the top side (thinner), rechamfer the pin edge. After that I tried different shim combinations and end up using 2 ult shims and now it is working nicely. No shot down, not recharge problems, no short stroking.

  9. #249
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    669

    KC Trouble Free oil

    Quote Originally Posted by BlackVCG
    The higher quality oil you use, the less frequently you'll have to oil your gun. Autolube is an OK oil, but it in my opinion it doesn't cut it in a higher performance Mag setup that has LX and ULT. With both of those setups, the fit of the o-rings and how smooth things are moving is very critical to keeping the gun running well and reliable.

    The problem with autolube is that it drys out the o-rings and the oil itself drys out and doesn't keep things lubed.

    Ever since I've been using KC Trouble Free oil, my o-rings stay as clean looking as they were when they were brand new and I never have gun issues that are caused by an inadequate amount of oil.

    If you use autolube, do you ever wonder why your o-rings look all brown and dried out and brand new o-rings in parts kit are nice and clear?
    BlackVCG,

    I've also been using KC Trouble Free lube per your recommendations.

    Since I've been using it this summer I've readjusted my level X carrier from the "single line" one to the carrier with "no lines". Does this KC troublefree oil really lube so well that It's caused me to adjust my level X in all of my guns??? It seems so...

    Would this oil also add a little to the efficiency of the gun?

    Let me know your thoughts on this.

    Thanks Mechanic79

  10. #250
    Just dropped the ULT into a Classic Mag Valve with Hyperframe.
    (Tried it out of the box with one shim ... didn't fire ... so put all of them in)

    It works great!

    I can finnaly use my Hyperframe! The thing never had enough force to properly fire the marker. I got my hyperframe years ago now. And It never worked right.

    I haven't had time put any paint through it yet; But the mag reliably cycles again! Thats more then it did before.

    Question. How fast can the old Classic Mag cycle on nitro? (800PSI Centerflag Hyperflow ASA) For simplicity reasons (and people saying the Classic doesn't charge fast enought for thr ULT) I've set the Hyperframe to 5BPS. Can I reliably bring her up to the 7-8 range? Yeah i know a 7bps bit comical for a target with all the markers shooting at easily double that rate.

  11. #251

    ULT on a classic

    OK this is for everyone with a CLASSIC VALVE who has a ULT!!

    You gotta shim the hell out of the ULT.... AGDlover is right. I just took apart my ult and apparently I have 5 ULT shims and 3 LX shims, so a grand total equivalent to 11 ult shims. I found that if I use good finger control, I can shoot flawlessly. Unfortunately, without finger control, maybe 1 out of every 3 short strokes I get, the bolt will not reset at which time I gotta stick my finger into the breech and reset the bolt manually. My conclusion: On a CLASSIC valve, even 11 ULT shims isn't enough. So for the people with classic valve who have like 3 or 4 shims in your ult, complainin that your mag wont act right, all i gotta say is: you got a lot more "shimmin" to do.

  12. #252

    installing

    everyone says that its a breeze but i just dont know how to install the ult. please help me. i got the ult installed at ag wehen i got my gun, but i need to tune it.
    rt ule custom, boomstick, ult,apoc2k and x board revi, i want:j&j ceramic.

  13. #253
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Saratoga Springs, NY
    Posts
    63

    Unhappy ult adjustment

    my X-valve came with a level 10 in it assuming it was tuned. ULT came seperate. So I put in would not reset after short stroke. Put more shims in and it worked great. But now when I short stroke it pushes a ball in the barrel casuing two balls to shoot or sometimes break in barel. So I was told to put in longer spring then air leaks down barrel. Where do I go from here? Do I have to tune the L-X or add shims to ULT?
    ROBB2269
    Minimag rail, X-Valve black, ULE CF body black, ULT trigger, ULE Intelliframe, Shochtech mini drop w/on off, Dye Ultra light barrel kit, Evo II z-board smoke.

    Titenium Karnivor, Dye Ultra kit, Evo II z-board


  14. #254
    NewMagMan21 Guest
    I didn't want to read all 250 posts to find it so.
    What is the recharge rate of a classic?
    And in general (w/o ULT) is the X-valve harder to short pull?

  15. #255
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Forest Grove, Oregon
    Posts
    116
    I bought a ULT on/off for my x-valve, I heard you can rapid fire the ULE trigger??? I put all my ULE shims and all my level 10 shims in the ULE trigger. It has so many shims in it I can barley fit the valve in the body, and I heard somewhere that you could shave the on/off pin a little. Would this work???????

  16. #256
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    598
    Quote Originally Posted by NewMagMan21
    I didn't want to read all 250 posts to find it so.
    What is the recharge rate of a classic?

    I've read several places that the classic valve/A.I.R. valve can cycle/recharge at 16 cps.

  17. #257
    hey scott....what is the recharge rate of a 68automags valve... if you know please let me know.

  18. #258
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    598
    uhm.....it's the same.

    "classic" and "A.I.R." and "68Automag" valve.....they are all the same, but with different laser engraving on it. If you have an all stainless steel valve, the it's the same thing (unless it says "RT" or "ReTro" or "Emag" on it.....).

    I personally have a A.I.R. valve on my old 'mag....it rocks.....serial # in the 5000's range....

  19. #259
    thanks scott...sorry for the stupid question...I actually found that out about an hour ago

  20. #260
    #1 when i shoot my xvalve no ult it is very reactive and the lvl10 is fine but under rapid fire about after 30 shots it shoots down and and balls jam my barrel and break
    #2 when the ult is in my xvalve in any rapid fire just 2 or three shots it shoots down short strokes and all that stuff still lvl10 is fine, if shoot a shot every 3 seconds it is fine
    i tried adding shims and removing shims but cant get it working is it my input pressure? i have an aci bulldog 2 on my tank i think input is 750 HELP!!!

  21. #261
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    Burbank, CA USA
    Posts
    1,275
    Quote Originally Posted by QUINCYMASSGUY
    I got my on/off sent to me all set up ready to go, I think that's how they're coming now. I just popped that badboy in my gun and it was pretty good, threw another shim on and it was better, then I ran out of air cause I was at 900psi to start and spent 200psi because I kept shooting once and getting the bolt sticking forward and venting. Too many Lvl 10 shims had an effect with this, I guess because of less push resetting the sear to start, I don't know. Anyone else had that issue? The pin comes bonded with the pin support and in the ULE bottom too, not sure how AGD connected them (loctite?) haven't tried pulling it out yet. Have any of you who got it after the beta test fiddled with this?

    Still can't walk it, and I am definitely starting to consider the idea again of drilling a hole a little higher up on the sear to angle the pin, cutting a little stroke distance off but increasing the reactivity. The pull is so light but without a little shorter pull it's definitely not walkable. Anyone know how AGD gets their sears made? Do they do them inhouse or do they outsource for them? I'd love it if I could pay AGD a little more and have them punch the hole a little higher on a sear before they coat it and set the trigger rod just right for the new angle, keeping it within AGD standards. I'd be happy to pay a little more for it and let them know how it goes if they set it up so I don't have to modify it and risk hurting my baby (All-AGD ULE mag). Beta-test it basically. Can this custom work be done? And before this becomes suitable for another forum....

    How many shims is everyone with a ULE body/XValve/Stock AGD rail/Intelliframe setup using? I'm at 3, one above what they send it to you with. Anyone finding the need to use Lvl 10 shims with the on/offs they're sending now?

    Frankart, I have not fiddled with input pressure because I use a Crossfire set nitro tank, but the reactivity isn't bad, I haven't shot much but it comes back pretty fast.
    sorry i'm just a little late on this...... LOL

    Luke here on AO does the ULT sear mod.

  22. #262
    ive been trying to find an emag but its not orking out to well and i was thingin about getting the rt ule im just wondering wat the trigger pull will feel like as in comparsion to something and what a stock one would feel like compared to something

    thanks.

  23. #263
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    michigan.
    Posts
    772

    Chuff!

    setup:

    CF ULE body
    AM/MM Classic rail
    X valve
    Lv 10
    ULT
    Intelliframe
    68/3000 Crossfire HPO

    i can not fire this trigger rapidly.
    please help!
    when i try to walk or fan the trigger it chuffs every once in a while.
    i know that this is because the sear isn't resetting fully between trigger pulls.
    when firing with paint, the chuff puts the ball halfway down the barrel and the next successfull shot makes soup.
    what can i do to fix this problem?

    thanks.

  24. #264
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    943
    Ok, Ive been fiddling with my leaking x valved and ult, and it goes full auto. I have four shims in the ult and none in the lvl 10(havent gotten around to tuning it, I'm trying to fix the leaks right now). I am using a minimag rail and stock frame for testing. Once I get it going its going to have a nice hyperframe

    Any way, my mag goes full auto. I would think I would need more push from the on/off to reset the bolt. Would more or less shims do that. I have lubed the crap out of everything.
    "Don't stoned i'm shoot" -someoneiforget

  25. #265
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    Burbank, CA USA
    Posts
    1,275
    My X-Valve worked fine until I put in ULT. I have 5 shims in and it shoots great, then the bolt sticks... When I push the bolt back, it resets. I fire a few more shots, then it sticks.... The only lube I have is Autolube. Where can I get a hold of some KC Troublefree oil? I'm still getting a few shortstrokes too. I'm even using two trigger stops. Why can't ULT shoot that fast??? It seems that the stock on/off is faster...

  26. #266

    Bad JooJoo?

    Quote Originally Posted by jewie27
    My X-Valve worked fine until I put in ULT. I have 5 shims in and it shoots great, then the bolt sticks... When I push the bolt back, it resets. I fire a few more shots, then it sticks.... The only lube I have is Autolube. Where can I get a hold of some KC Troublefree oil? I'm still getting a few shortstrokes too. I'm even using two trigger stops. Why can't ULT shoot that fast??? It seems that the stock on/off is faster...
    I was having the EXACT same problem and I had the same amount of shims on the on/off assembly as you do until I added one more and it shoots in two round burst full auto, and one full pull of the trigger has it back in single shot. What I want to know is why is it that on the instructions does it tell you to take a shim OUT of it starts going full auto? Isn't that a GOOD thing?? I mean, I put a full hopper through it and no sticks, no hangups or breaks. Just beautiful wonderful, RELIABLE fast rat of fire. All I want to know is would this cause undue wear and tear on the pin??

  27. #267
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    Burbank, CA USA
    Posts
    1,275
    I shot some paint with it today and it seemed to be a lot better. It doesn't stick as much or at all with paint. Why does it stick when I dry fire?

  28. #268
    maybe becuse there's a little bit of backpressure created by an actual ball being in the breech that helps the marker re-cock itself where-as without the ball it just let's all the air go. Even thought that SHOULDN'T be the case, it's a guess. If you still have the original springs that came with your marker, try cutting down the largest spring to like 1/2 - 1 coil longer than the medium spring and see if that takes care of all the problems. That was going to be my next path of troubleshooting. But did you add the extra shim? I'm running 6 now, instead of five. I won't go anymore than that

  29. #269
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    michigan.
    Posts
    772
    what problems are most likely to occur if the on/off pin is bent?

    i may have bent my pin, barely perceptible but i know that in a mag tolerances run tight.

    the bolt is not resetting fully, it gets stuck about 1-2mm before it fully resets, could a bent pin be the cause?

    also, is gold cup oil better than autolube for the Xvalve?

    please help quick, i have a game on sunday!

    thanks in advance.
    Last edited by ultralight; 03-31-2005 at 07:42 PM.

  30. #270
    Anybody know how critical the shape of the tip of the on/off pin has to be when filing it down?

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