Here are some great Level 10 and x-valve diagrams:
Not sure if you still need them or not but just in case.
Originally Posted by Rambino
I could use a little help with my ULT. It fires as is and works very well, it's walkable. At the field I played at today they were calling questionable because they could "sweetspot" it in the 2-3BPS range. They let me compete though so that was cool. Anyway my problem is when I remove 1 ULT shim it will fire but every 3rd or so shot will be a chuff(even when shooting slow) and the trigger is mushy. I have the most amount of shims that can be fitted in the assembly but any less and it will not fire right - any suggestions?
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Has anyone have any success in installing these ULT into a 2000 Vert Feed MicroMag?
Has anyone tried installing a ULT into a 2000 Vert Feed MicroMag and it didn't work?
Please share. Thanks.
where can i send my rt pro valve in order to have it drilled for a ult?
Check your LX setup (or at least thats what it sounds like). Make sure your on/off is screwed completely ON and your tank is screwed on tightly.Originally Posted by scrumpy
Typical rule for LX tuning is if your marker will not shoot, add a shim to the powertube. If you come to a point where you have 2-3 shims in your powertube and it still doesn't shoot, switch to a larger carrier. When you switch, always start with no powertube shims.
Below is a picture of the RT I have. I used to play paintballs back about 8 years or so ago with a Spyder, however, I am trying to get back into the sport, so I bought my uncles gun. This RT DOES have the Level 10 bolt, and I am wondering if the ULT Trigger system will fit into it without having to make any milling or changes to the gun whatsoever. I'm really confused and I don't want to buy the system if I have to make any changes to the gun. If anyone could let me know that it will work with the level 10 already in the gun, please let me know, I wanna get back on that field immediately!
Unfortunately your RT does not have a valve that will accept the ULT kit. If the pictures in my original post in this thread were working (image server is down and has been down for awhile), then you would get a good image of why it won't work.
Instead I'll try to explain it. In the hole for your on/off valve there is a counterbore step. This means the hole goes down at one consistent diameter stops then a smaller diameter hole continues further down for the thickness of the o-ring that the pocket holds. You need to remove that counterbored step in order to fit the ULT kit into your gun.
There are numerous machinists on the forum. Contarary to popular belief, I no longer machine and can't help you with this but there are others you can contact. Tunaman is a good place to start. Also BradAGD and if you search you'll find some others with the capability.
All of the new X-Valves have the on/off hole which will accept the ULT valve, unfortunately none of those valves will fit the original RT.
Basically you're stuck with having to get your valve machined or just play without the ULT.
Hi Im kinda new to the Mag world i just got a tac one with a ULT and i decided to make it a bit lighter i added just one shim there was about 4 or 5 in there already and now the valve will not go in the gun all the way im figuring that the assemly is sticking out a tad too much and i cant get to go any further , whats the fix for this?
Loosen the screw that holds the grip frame onto the rail.
That is the screw inside the trigger guard that goes up.
Loosen it or take it out...that will give your plenty of clearance.
Well, I basically took of the whole body and the assembly is still sticking out too much. ive only added one shim it goes back in fine once i take the shim back out. im wondering if i couldnt just shave off some of the assembly with a file or a mill
There is a limit to the amount of shims you can put in the assembly. It should be 6, but it sounds like your's only lets you put in 5 shims. You're going to have to go back to the original number of shims and play with that. Keep in mind the trigger will get lighter over time and when things start to wear-in.
Got my X-Valve and ULT kit today. I'm a bit confused, when I take out the original on/off, do the 2 o-rings at the top stay in there for use on the ULT kit or must they come out?
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Both o-rings come out.
I have a PTP MicroMag w/X-valve, LVL10, and ULT. I have a small leak that I cannot fix. Pushing on the front of the bolt does not change the pitch of the leak, so I assuming it is not coming from the barrel. If I hold the trigger back, the leak changes its pitch, but does not stop. I am guessing the ULT is causing the leak. All orings have been changed. I think I have 1 thin shim and 4 thicker shims in the ULT now and adding more will not allow the valve to go into the body. On a side note, when the two halves of the ULT are screwed together, the top does not fully tighten, it still has play if I pul up and down on the top. Does that make a difference?
Thanks in advance. If you need more info, let me know.
Help! I'm trying to install a ULT in my X-Valve mag, and I'm having trouble. I'm only using 1 spacer ring, and the thing is running away full auto when you touch the trigger. I had a ULTed mag a while back and it was not like this. What else can I do?
hmm, normally when its going full auto you have a lot of shims in it or a high input pressure, 950+Originally Posted by Interceptor
I'd suggest oiling it and changing the shim count until it works. you have to find the right amount.
I'm down to one shim right now and its still going nuts!
I know putting a ULT on a smartmag valve is not recommended, but could i ask why it isn't? In other words, would it just be slight disadvantages or major malfunctions? I guess it'd be better to just bite the bullet and save up for an xvalve huh...
Im getting terrible runaway on my mag and was told it is probably a ULT problem. Took it apart and found 4 shims. Popped 1 out but in but Im still getting runaway every time I pull the trigger. I ran out of air before I can test it w/ less...how many more shims should I remove before I can eliminate ULT as the problem?
It is not hazardous to use a ULT with a classic style valve. The disadvantage is the increased ease of shortstroking. Some can do it with much success, others can't.Originally Posted by Daemon
Ok, so after much fideling with my X-vavle, thinking my problem was bolt stick, a tech at a local store tried swapping my ULT on/off with a standard RT on/off, and voila, no more loss of pressure behind the trigger. Looking at the ULT on/off, we noted that somehow 7 shims had been installed prior to delivery to me. Putting fewer and fewer shims on it did not remove the loss of trigger pressure issue, and eventually caused a leak.
So, my question is, how should the gun be performing now, with the standard on/off? I find that, besides a heavier trigger-pull, and harder punch from the RT, it is extremely easy to short-stroke, in fact, any attempt to shoot faster than about 10 bps results in short-stroking. Is this normal for the standard RT on/off? Will reoiling/ use of gun grease on the sear only, help? And if I order a new ULT on/off, how likely am I to have the exact same problem as before?
"Markers invariably break on two occasions: when you brought your backup, and when you did not bring your backup."
does anybody know if a Hyperframe on/off is as light (trigger pull) as the ULE kit? I'm considering buying a Spydermag frame...
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I don't think it is. It also wears away the bolt.Originally Posted by Dover
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That's a good question. I haven't seen or heard of him in a while.Originally Posted by StygShore
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question... i'm thinking of getting the ult, but i still wanna keep some of the reactivity, so if i wanna do this, i gotta put in the maximum # of shims to start out with?
I have a x-valve all tuned and threw the ult with all but last shim and get 1-2 shots and then won't fire . Should I start using LV Shims too? it seems like too much. I still have Tiny Black o-ring in Baggie. Am i supposed to install that as well? Did anyone have to adjust lx or x-valve after installing ULT? Have Nitro Duck Adjustable Tank set at 800psi maybe little more. Seemed to get worse as i added more shims ( No Runaway ) Rear screw for valve Needs to be real tight? Haven't oiled on\off yet Should I? valve has been oiled very recently. I think that all my Questions- Thanx
Is anyone gona answer? Caues my bolt is stickin now after all shims are in( it sticks after a good amount of shots ) its defin. not my LX caues that was workin perfectly before this. Unless you have to adjust it with this being in there( Which would be helpful if SOMEONE WOULD ANSWER .