ALL about the WARP-FEED

[JT2002]

Originally posted by barrel break
sorry guys, didnt have time to read the whole thing, so i'll just ask this here.

I have an '03 vert cocker and want a warp, do i absoloutley have to buy the PTP warp ($100 more) to run it on mine?
thanks

]no, all thats really important is that u get teh cocker adapter

[Evil1]

Can a vert feed ULE body be used w/ a warp feed is there an adapter or do you just have to buy a ULE warp body?

[JT2002]

i think you might be3 able to find an angel adapter

[Evil1]

I know this was probably already covered somewhere in this thread but where can I get the 12 volt mod for the warp and about how much does it cost?

[kenndogg]

you can either rig it up yourself with parts from Radioshack or go through Pro Team Products(12.95 from them).

[mm.GoDLiKe]

Tube Length

Hey,

What is the longest you can make a warp feed tube, and not get any slipping in the spinning disks or any less than 8 BPS. In 3.5 feet, the warp feed would have to push 60 paintballs. I'd imagine that it's maximum rate would go down. I'd put on a 12v mod on if necessary.

I bet you are curious why - well I almost exclusively play large senario games, and hoppers just look bad on replica paintball guns. If all i had was this tube running down the gun and then attach it to a warp feed id have somewhere on my belt, I think it would look much better.


Thanks for any info,

-Mike

[Evil1]

If I were to rig the 12 volt mod myself, could some schematics be provided and a list for what parts I would need.

[homis]

Length

Mike,

See our short discussion here:

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=117898

[PRPB]

Help!!

Ok from me taking out the battery from my warpfeed so much. I ended up breaking the wire off the board. So I decided to put an on/off switch on my warpfeed and i hook up the intellifeed. Now I have some problems.

When I first tested it worked fine, but the sensor was still on. So then I removed the one jumper and got it to stop. So I tested it again everything was fine. The intellilink works and the switch work. So then I go inside so we can start on my other warp.

I went to look at mine to see something, but then I touched my warp i was hot at the battery compartment. So I took out the battery, which was hot as hell. I then looked over everything. All the wires where soldered to the right spots and there are no wires touching. (NOTE: It only gets hot when the switch is off)

After all this is when I took the jumper out to stop the sensor. So after the sensor jumper was out. I put the battery back in and the battery was no longer getting hot. So I figured I was fix. So I went to try it again, but the battery was dead. So I put another one in and it warmed up again, but nothing like the first time. So I thought it was fixed again. Then about ten minutes later the second battery was dead.

So today I tried it again. I put the battery in and it all works, but the battery started heating up again. SO I just took it out. I'm now lost and have no idea what the problem can be.

Anyone have an idea?

[PaintSkater00]

Could someone try to explain to me how you break your warp in? Im very horrible with mechanical and electrical things and the directions that came with the warp I can't understand.

[PRPB]

Re: Help!!

Originally posted by PRPB
Ok from me taking out the battery from my warpfeed so much. I ended up breaking the wire off the board. So I decided to put an on/off switch on my warpfeed and i hook up the intellifeed. Now I have some problems.

When I first tested it worked fine, but the sensor was still on. So then I removed the one jumper and got it to stop. So I tested it again everything was fine. The intellilink works and the switch work. So then I go inside so we can start on my other warp.

I went to look at mine to see something, but then I touched my warp i was hot at the battery compartment. So I took out the battery, which was hot as hell. I then looked over everything. All the wires where soldered to the right spots and there are no wires touching. (NOTE: It only gets hot when the switch is off)

After all this is when I took the jumper out to stop the sensor. So after the sensor jumper was out. I put the battery back in and the battery was no longer getting hot. So I figured I was fix. So I went to try it again, but the battery was dead. So I put another one in and it warmed up again, but nothing like the first time. So I thought it was fixed again. Then about ten minutes later the second battery was dead.

So today I tried it again. I put the battery in and it all works, but the battery started heating up again. SO I just took it out. I'm now lost and have no idea what the problem can be.

Anyone have an idea?

Anyone???

[JT2002]

u ever think of calling agd? youll probably send it in

[Havoc_online]

PRPB - try switching to heavy duty battery connectors

PaintSkater00 - hook up a battery, press the white button until the battery dies, then your done.

[JT2002]

woah! havoc is still alive! never coulda guessed that one

[Havoc_online]

Still alive?

Ha, I'm... Eternal...