AO: We are back from the dead... again! After an 18 day outage, we are finally alive and well. Who knew how complicated updating software/databases from 2008 would be. I still have alot of tweaks to make, but my main goal was getting everything patched and updated to 2026.
Vbulletin 6 has changed alot since 2008 so we will have a ton of new features to dig into.
1. i noticed the integrated dovetail.. so i could just slide my asa on (i have a hybrid grind) but how in the HELL do I tighten it? Usually, if you have a rail or mini drop there's 2 small allen head screws that tighten against the inner wall of the rail/drop and flex it tight against the dovetail.
how do you tighten an asa onto it?
There are six bottom line screw holes. You run a couple of tiny set screws into those holes from the top and they jam the ASA onto the dovetail. You gotta open the grips to take it off, but it gives a very clean look on the outside.
2. my current setup is mounted on an 05 Karta rail.. I use 2 different setups for a foregrip.
a) an RPG 15* asa w/ flat rail adapter with a gas-thru grip
b) a battery pack with a special adapter that allows it to be mounted as a foregrip on most mag setups.
I'm just wondering if either of these will fit with the huge trigger guard.. or are we now limited to a straight regular foregrip due to lack of space?
Nope, you gotta use the ASA I provide, or modify yours to function in the same way (that just means drill and tap another hole in the front to mount the LPR). You MUST run a gas thru setup with this frame. The RPG 15deg ASA could be modified to work, but the battery pack cannot. Any regular screw in gas thru grip will work with our new VA.
anyways, WOW.. I love the look of that. imho the snatch grip part of the frame could use some aesthetic milling but dang... nice frame bro. you make nice stuff. I can't wait to get mine. those grips also look HOT.
Replies in red.
I left those flats for the guys to get their laser engraving done on.
I know, I just get impatient having to take the allen key out and put it back in every turn. I wish I could just keep turning it. A slot would make that possible. But yes, that extra process would jack the cost up.
Ball end keys will let you angle the key to miss the guard, and still be able to spin it all the way around.
I'm serious, invest in a set, it will be the best $8 you ever spent on paintball.
well that was depressing... oh well, off to the custom drawing board to try and find a setup that looks good.
What are you talking about?
I can modify your RPG ASA to take the LPR with about 30 mins worth of work.
Or, you can use any reg that can reliably supply 75 psi, and make it fit any way you want to.
You could use a T fitting, and run a vert reg into the VA, and side tap a barb off of it to run the frame. Or you can T off of the valve, stick an LPR on there, and just sneak the hose under one edge of the grips. Or you can make up a custom bottom plate for your battery pack and put the LPR inside of it. The possibilities are endless, it just depends on how much $$$ you want to spend, and how much time you are willing to wait.
Cool, kinda like a ratchet? I need these. I didn't even know such a thing existed, thank you!
Not exactly. These are the ones I use:
By the end being ball shaped, they allow the key to engage the screw socket at an angle less than 90 degrees. What this means is that you can still spin the key all the way around like you would if you could get to the top of the screw, but you can also angle the key around things that are in the way.
DC could certainly do it (they are quite capable machinists), but once again, I don't know if they have done any Mags in the past, or if they want to do any now. They do a lot of machine work on Vikings and the like, which I imagine is much more profitable (and less labor intensive) than this sort of thing.
I just taklked to jared he said they won't be taking anything till at least the fall
I'm going to pick up the first 25 frames tomorrow, and the other innards should be getting here mid next week from the other machinists.
This means I could have a vid up in as little as a week or two.
Rock and Friggin Roll!
I also have good news for the eye install guys (the guys wanting me to install the eyes for them that is). I have devised a snifty set of covers and a rail mod that will let them mount solidly, while also making your rail lighter.
So, here is what I am thinking. If you buy the frame, and you want me to install the eyes, you will get:
Body drilled for eyes
Eye Covers
ULE Rail Milling
Cosmetic Rail Milling
Reano of the rail and covers (your choice of solid colors)
No price for that yet, but I won't be too long getting one together.
Its all coming together, all that is left, is for you guys to buy the durned things.
Detail #1 - I will be doing the eye installs. I've got a system laid out that makes it go much faster.
Here is what you get with the eye install:
ULE body machined to accept eyes
Aluminum Eye Covers (ano'ed to match rail color)
ULE and Eye Clearance rail milling (rail reanodized afterwards)
Detail #2 - I have shored up pricing for whole markers.
Option #1 - Just the frame, ASA, and LPR - $450 Option #2 - Frame, ASA, LPR, Eyes installed, rail machined, eye covers included, all ano matched. (You provide the ULE body, rail, foregrip, valve, and sear assembly.) - $565 Option #3 - Whole marker. (You supply the $$$$, I supply a bad *** marker.) - $950
Now some news:
Still waiting on a few parts before I can shoot the vids.
Boards from TAG will be the major hang-up (or at least that is how it is looking ATM) as far as getting the production markers done.
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