Logic Ripper EM - The Electro Solution - PreOrder

[RTspag]

i'm hard at work on my engravings, i actually passed the template out to friends to do graphics for me hahaha.... i'm so lazy. (typing 9 page english paper DUE IN 8 HOURS! ... so i doubt i'll get any sleep. hmmm - so what colors would look good with a gloss black body and a polished rail - besides black... i don't want friggin black.

[DaveSM]

No chrome, no nickel plate, and no gold/silver plating. Anodized colors only.

http://www.paintballmontreal.com/phpbb/files/img_0192_611.jpg

I hope that silver ano is close to chrome...

I'll send you info soon.

[eNder159]

soooooo my question is...from an economical view of things....do i HAVE to go with eyes since there's a lvl X in there already? i mean eyes are nice and everything but...paying for college and car payments and paying for rent on a decent pay ..its hard life but i want to play and play fast

[CoolHand]

soooooo my question is...from an economical view of things....do i HAVE to go with eyes since there's a lvl X in there already? i mean eyes are nice and everything but...paying for college and car payments and paying for rent on a decent pay ..its hard life but i want to play and play fast

That's your call. The LVL X won't hurt anything, and if you tune it right, it won't chop either.

BUT, you have to tune it. That's the only down side. The eyes don't need to be tuned, they just are.

If you've already got the LVL X and you're decent at tuning it, you can save yourself some dough. You can always have the eyes done later if you find that its not good enough.

[AKBAR]

It's probably been mentioned in some part of the topic but what rates of fire can we expect to hit, with ramping and without? Also, for a new mag buyer, is there an advantage to, say, buying a mag and then your frame rather than just buying an e-mag?

[Automaggot68]

It's probably been mentioned in some part of the topic but what rates of fire can we expect to hit, with ramping and without? Also, for a new mag buyer, is there an advantage to, say, buying a mag and then your frame rather than just buying an e-mag?

[CoolHand]

That video I posted was at 18 bps (which I confirmed with a sound graph). That's about as fast as would go with the settings and the parts I had in it. Just an FYI, I sound graphed the DMag video that everyone went nuts about as well . . . . . . . it comes in at ~13 bps (its between 12.5 and 13, but varies a good bit since that was in semi auto).

I did some measuring and found that the oring crush in the actuator assembly was a little tighter than I would have liked, so I swapped out the orings for XRings, which reduced the tension by about 30%. I will be testing this setup in a few days, to see if I can eek any more speed out of it (its all in pieces right now, I just need to get the body drilled for eyes before I put the marker back together).

In semi-auto I will guarantee that you will not outrun the frame. In any of the uncapped ramps I will say you should see ROF in the 18-20 bps range (if you can feed it that fast).

This has several advantages over a stock EMag:

1) Its lighter by a good bit. I will have a weight in a few days (got to put it back together to weigh it).
2) Flexibility. You can use this marker anywhere, under any set of rules, and it will be legal.
3) Its better looking to be sure (lol That's totally subjective, but its my list so it goes in there.).
4) No battery pack.
5) You can use any gas thru or reg as a foregrip.
6) They cost about the same if you buy a whole marker from me, or a new EMag from AGD.
7) You get to choose your colors from me, from AGD you take what they have in stock (as far as the lowers go. I'm just as limited as AGD when it comes to the valve and body colors).
8) No more HES, nuff said.

BUT, you also have one disadvantage:

1) No more manual override.

Now, I never used manual mode when I had an EMag, but some folks do. I didn't like it, and thought it made the EMag unnecessarily complex, but other folks loved it to death. Either way, it simply couldn't be incorporated into this design.

[Automaggot68]

No more HES, nuff said.

BURN.

[eNder159]

so if i have a complete ULE mag (ule body, gas through grip,intelliframe,xvalve,ULT,MM rail) what do i have to do to buy the bolt on frame? i know that my MM rail has to be modded but there were't any specifics mentioned on WHAT has to be done...(im coming from a noob to machining things kinda perspective)

and my second question to the AO nation is do you think the lvlx can work as hard as eyes if properly tuned (basically can it sustain 15bps without breaking bawlsz) didnt zak vetter go 20+bps with a lvlx with no breaks?

[Automaggot68]

so if i have a complete ULE mag (ule body, gas through grip,intelliframe,xvalve,ULT,MM rail) what do i have to do to buy the bolt on frame? i know that my MM rail has to be modded but there were't any specifics mentioned on WHAT has to be done...(im coming from a noob to machining things kinda perspective)

To mount it on a MM rail is easy, its the forgrip/lpr that makes the problem.
You need to find a palce to put the LPR, so the air gets routed into the frame.
Also, you wont be able to mount a forgrip, or vert ASA on the rail because of the size of the trigger guard.
I ran into this problem with my Dallara, seeing as it's on a MM/AM rail.
Ryan is remedying it for me :)
You could slap a T fitting on a double tapped ASA, and put the LPR there, and run the line into the frame from there, but you'd still lack a forgrip.

If you're serious about buying, let Ryan know what you plan on doing, and send your marker to him.
He can do it for you, and his prices aren't unreasonable at all.

[eNder159]

ok thanks automaggot for clearing that up...so what if i got the longer RTP rail ill be ok as far as "bolting on" the frame?

[Automaggot68]

ok thanks automaggot for clearing that up...so what if i got the longer RTP rail ill be ok as far as "bolting on" the frame?

No worries.
Yes, If i were you i'd get an RT PRO rail for it.
Easier in the long run.

[Skywalker]

[QUOTE=CoolHand]

Well, Gloss Silver ano is pretty close to nickel plate color wise. Its more of a whitish color, where nickel is kinda yellowy. It won't be as hard of a shine, but it gets pretty close.

I don't have plater that I work with, and Jay's man is unreliable at best (though I hear he is very good at what he does).

I can talk to Palmers, but since they want upwards of $450 to do a marker, I'd bet that you're looking at near a hundred to do a frame alone.

Sorry bud, there are just some things I can't do.

I'm not trying to be difficult, but I definately don't want gloss silver. If you could, when you have some extra time, see if you can find a reliable guy to do chrome plating. I will look in to it as well, but you being a dealer you could probably get a better price. I'd rather have chrome over nickel b/c I like the blueish tint it has and plus it doesn't tarnish as easily as nickel.

Also, is it possible to annodize the LPR or should I just find one that is chrome and send it in with my gun?

One last thing, did you ever talk to the guy that was interested in my X-Mag? If I don't get that thing sold than no UMF for me.

[DaveSM]

If you can find a good chrome plater then you would have two frames.

[CoolHand]

Alright, I'll look for a chromer, but I make no promises. (I've been on this hunt for years now, and still no luck. Good platers are harder to find that good anodizers)

No word back from the guy, he was interested in the black to pink one (whoever's that was). Last I heard from him he was gathering his funds.

He's blinked many many times since then, so there is a distinct possibility that he's totally forgotten about it, or changed his mind and bought six Ions. You just never know.