ahh sorryOriginally Posted by Couponqueen89
um i use this charger
not sure if it is - or +
ahh sorryOriginally Posted by Couponqueen89
um i use this charger
not sure if it is - or +
Can I get the same info for a micromag? 1st gen, if that makes a difference.
Such a sham(e).
Registered User
What is the size of the ball bearing in the saftey and the switch in the E-Mag?
Also, a little off topic, what color(s) anno did the flatline 4500 reg come in?
i got a RT ULE Custom 2 days ago, i put air on it and all the happened was air came out the barrel. if you can tell me anything that i can do besides sending it back i would greatly be thankful. it also has a ULT installed.
NOT!!! Acording to techs at Proteam. The on/off pin is shorter.
Originally Posted by redlaser666
stay proud, Stay mechanical!
And my feed back is at: https://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?p=1771790#post1771790
So black, if I have Emag #538, does it have the .725 pin? It's one of the first emag valves. Then to get an x valve to work in my mag I just need a .712 pin?
I recently had a talk with Athomas about the sear rod lengths. I asked if it was safe to adjust the rod so it'd be closer to the back position in emode on my emag. He said it'd be fine.
I was kind of surprised to hear that so I pm'd him back asking if he thought it was safe to do it on Emags but not any other mags. He said no, you can adjust the rod in any gun, just it must NOT hit the trigger. And that people say not to change it because morons would do just that(make it hit the trigger) and screw up their gun.
I currently have mine adjusted a lot farther than what the stock length is. It still works perfect, hybrid is much easier to use, and is a lot faster now as well.
What are your thoughts on this?
From the end of the rod to the end of the clevis.Originally Posted by elpimpo
Searched didn't find me an answer, that being said...
What thread and size is the screw used in the front of the trigger frame to mount it to the body?
can i get the specs in metric for the classic mag please? my caliper does not measure in .005inches, thats just silly, lol
huh? Ok, so my RT pro ule, which came with an X-valve should have a .750" pin. What would happen if I replaced it with on from a standard RT pro, .765" The reason I asked is I recently got a replacement on/off from a local store, and although the gun works, it takes a long time to reseat the trigger, resulting in chuffing if I dryfire too fast.Originally Posted by BlackVCG
If you got your Pro from the factory, check your velocity and tune your Level 10.
i picked up a on/off pin and its .712.ive got a brass top on/off,would it work if i just added an extra oring?just on top of the other one?
hmmmm, why not just try it. i cant see it ruining anything.
~not liable for any damages incurred as a result of my advice~
i think i found the problem with my emag.my trigger rod was way too short and i was going to lengthen it and it adjusted way too easily.how do i tighten the threads?
loctite
Gun and specs
minimag/ x-valve/ intella frame/ 12v warp feed/ dynaflow adjustable hp reg
-on/off assembly has upper quadring
-on/off pin .735 due to the quadring and desired rapid response trigger feel. .740 would not cycle and .725 was leaky and way to fast.
-Level X bolt(not really a big fan but i keep trying. I should run a roto, no warp and a level 7)
-input pressure 950psi at 13bps(estimation)
-input pressure 1100psi at 18+bps
-if problems occur go back to all stock specs( this includes the level 7 bolt and use the specs from AGD). if problem is solved then start rebuilding the marker piece at a time till the problem retuns. if problem prissiest then the gun has ben modified in some way to change the tolerances like a paint job instead of anno, or something.
hope this helps someone
how do you kno which on off pin to use? is the the valve or the rail or body?