G-Force to release pneumatic frames for the Mags

[Beemer]

to avoid confusion,
No, I did not purchase any product from G-Force.
I actually defended Garf and G-Force until he Flamed me here on the AO
and turned into a less than reliable resource.

Ya I know I have followed all Two thousand one hundred AND forty six posts so far in this thread.

[warbeak2099]

Are you one of the ten or twelve?

If you are waiting for the LPR, please post up saying so, so I have THAT info and know what the number is. Thank you.

I am. I paid for the LPR in full and am waiting for that as well as my drilled CP direct mount ASA and adapter rail.

[skyless]

count me in

I am waiting for 1 Gforce internal Lpr.

[insixdays777]

Yep I have official stock in this issue...I am one of the dozen.

Paid for the LPR in full and sent in my CP direct mount.

[Dirge]

Paid in full and waiting.......

[UThomas]

If you are waiting for the LPR, please post up saying so, so I have THAT info and know what the number is. Thank you.

Beemer - check page 65 for people who are waiting on it. The number is 12 per Garf.

[insixdays777]

GUYS...looks like Garth is right about the tickler....I just took apart my Gforce frame been running pneumaggers internal tickler set up. I have only shot 2500 rnds through it.

The extender has has nicks and gouges from the piston and the rear extender stop screw. Good thing I found it. No lasting issues as I will no be using it again without the G-Force LPR.

Just be warned...I suggest everyone open up there frames and take a close look at their extenders.

[IMG] [/IMG]

[TwilightG]

How about pics from someone NOT using a Tickler? Curious to see if there is much of a difference.

[insixdays777]

How about pics from someone NOT using a Tickler? Curious to see if there is much of a difference.

Good Idea...

Anyway...I think I am going to dip the tip of the extender in that tool latex coating stuff...cant think of the name...you know its for tool handles, nice thick coat of rubber...should help make it quieter also...just a thought...anyone see any issues with this idea?

[TwilightG]

Good Idea...

Anyway...I think I am going to dip the tip of the extender in that tool latex coating stuff...cant think of the name...you know its for tool handles, nice thick coat of rubber...should help make it quieter also...just a thought...anyone see any issues with this idea?

Depends on how thick it goes on... the last thing you want is constant pressure on the sear when at rest. I think the ram and sear stop would chew through it quickly anyway, regardless of the LPR used.

btw, did you use grease on your extender as mentioned by Garf (and in the manual)? It might make a difference in how much abuse the extender takes.

[insixdays777]

Yeah it was gressed....

[flyingpootang]

Good Idea...

Anyway...I think I am going to dip the tip of the extender in that tool latex coating stuff...cant think of the name...you know its for tool handles, nice thick coat of rubber...should help make it quieter also...just a thought...anyone see any issues with this idea?

It's called "DIP" you can get it from Home Depot.You can tap a nylon tipped set screw into the sear leg where the piston is contacting the leg.

[Chris Nearchos]

hmm

to be honest insixdays777, it doesnt matter if you are using a standard setup or garfs. you will get the "torn-up" area from the piston from metal hiting metal. exactly what it is, is a little harden thin rod hitting a soft larger piece of metal. its going to dick up the metal with little or great amounts of PSI on the system. its just a matter of how fast you will see it happen. in your case with the higher psi used, you saw it faster...within a case of paint. now with garfs super low psi setup....one will probably see it in about 11,000-15,000 rounds of fire. so in one season of use atleast! I can post the physics of the WHY and OUTCOME, but i will save all you from that. just remeber in the end, its not a matter of how much psi is used in it, its a matter of how long its being used.

he hoesntly should have used a much denser metal for that sear extender though.

as for as solutions in stoping that, i would suggest the following:

1) put a harden flat bolt head in the way. meaning to drill a small hole ( in the "sear extender") where the piston is hitting it. find a flat small bolt that will fit it. put the flat head of the bolt on the side where the piston hits and tighten the nut on the back side.

the reason i say this way is because you wont have to worry about taping some threads in the soft sear extender. and if the bolt head ever gets too "dicked up", just replace the bolt.....instead of the sear extender.


OR



2) have someone make some special soft rubber tips for the end of the piston. this will greatly stop the "dicking" of the sear extender.


OR


3) build up a stash of extra sear extenders and not worry about it.






but i am pretty sure you ladies and gents that have the frame would like to keep your sear extender living for a nice long long time. not to mention, how hard and long it would be to get a replacement sear extender when/if something does happen. so do look into protecting your investment.


just some words from the intelligent side,

-Chris

[insixdays777]

thanks great advice....

Anyone out there in AO that can mill a stronger extender???

I agree with you...I think this is going to happen no mater what LPR you use...the metal is just soft...wonder why AGD made there sears out of hardened steel...

[warbeak2099]

Greasing the extender and using a higher volume LPR at a lower pressure will allow you to run the thing a lot longer without damage though. Everything wears out, let's face it. Let's just hope Garf will agree to making extras if we need them.