Is it Tuning or is it the Tank?

[roxcreek]

hello everyone,
I think I've gotten myself a little over my head by buying both a Lvl 10 and a ULT kit in one buy. I've been having several different troubles while the gun is aired up:
-leaking from the valve just as i air it up.
-lvl 10 makes a chuffing sound when I have the ULT in and try to go faster on the trigger
-I had the "sprinkler" sound one time, but only once
-Yesterday, I gassed the system up and tried to shoot one or two shots, but suddenly the macroline from the tank BLEW UP. And when I say it blew up, I mean that a huge gaping hole was ripped in the side of the macroline. (a side note: I have a gauge that is on the side of my ASA that was shot/broken becasue it's max pressure was reached, and it's a 0 to 1200 gauge, therefore, I believe that my tank had had a violent spike in pressure which caused the macroline to break)

I have two opinions on what is causing the problems:
-my tank is a piece of junk (48/3000 G1 Guerilla steely)
-my Lvl 10 and ULT are not tuned properly

could anyone help me out here?

[Ando]

Tune/install one part at a time and before you do anything, OIL THE HELL OUT OF IT!!!

[Shirow]

Sounds like you should be looking at a new tank also, or at least a new regulator.

[roxcreek]

Thanks guys, I've put the basic RT on/off back in to test out what could be wrong with the bolt. I've been changing the shims up and down with interesting results.

1. no shims = heavy leaking from bolt
2. one shim = some leaking, changes between each shot. A very quiet leaking can be heard from the bolt when it as at rest. When I push the bolt back it sounds like it is leaking more
3. two shims = seems like there is more leaking than one shim

The symptoms point towards an incorrectly sized carrier so I checked that, and I'm pretty sure it fits ok.

[Smoothice]

changing the shims in the level 10?

Start with 2 and go to a smaller carrier. Sounds like the carrier is leaking.

[fishmishin]

I think Smoothice is right, try changing the carrier. If you end up not being able to get it right send the whole set up to me, and I'll tune it up for you.

[roxcreek]

Thanks for the offer Fishmishin, that just proves how good of a seller you are. I'm afraid I'm going to decline any send in assistance because I want to know how to do this myself. If every time I had an issue with the system I had to send it in, I would never learn anything.

Thanks again, I'm out of air for now, but I'll make sure to repost whenever I am able to test out you guys' advice.

-Thanks again you guys

[secretweaponevan]

Tune it without shims. Shims come in later.

Good idea to tune it without the ULE Trigger Kit. Get it working with the stock RT on/off pin first.
Use oil then follow these steps in order:

1. Break in carrier o-ring with 1000 shots in carrier #2 (2 lines, no dots on side of carrier, or largest you have).
2. Move broken-in white carrier o-ring to largest carrier that does not leak.
3. If bolt sticks on squeegy test, add shims until it resets reliably.
4. Chrono marker to field speed. (this is important, don't just do it by sound)
5. If gun breaks paint (test with no loader and make an electrical tape string for paintball to hang only halfway in breach) use a longer mainspring (on the contrary, if bolt continuously "LVL 10's" or "chuffs" use a shorter mainspring).
6. Profit.

[athomas]

When testing to determine if you need to add shims, they will only help if the bolt moves forward but does not vent air. If the gun fires but does not reset, or if the bolt chuffs but won't reset, or if the bolt moves forward and leaks air out the front but won't reset, then shims will not help. Shims only shorten the distance that the bolt needs to move in order to vent air so that it can reset. Most of the time, the bolt can move forward far enough on its own, even with a breach blockage, to vent and reset.

[maniacmechanic]

Thanks for the offer Fishmishin, that just proves how good of a seller you are. I'm afraid I'm going to decline any send in assistance because I want to know how to do this myself. If every time I had an issue with the system I had to send it in, I would never learn anything.

Thanks again, I'm out of air for now, but I'll make sure to repost whenever I am able to test out you guys' advice.

-Thanks again you guys

EXCELLENT ANSWER

[roxcreek]

EXCELLENT ANSWER

thanks

[roxcreek]

ok, new developments:

I'm thinking that the issue is that, for the first part, the ULT does not even fit into the assmebly properly, so I guess I'm gonna be running the RT on off. Then, I found out that the pin I have for the on off I have might be the wrong size for the sear I'm using. Therefore I asume that Emag sears and standard AM/MM sears have different on/off shapes.

??? I'm not sure, so could I get someone's confirmation on that?

[Ando]

ok, new developments:

I'm thinking that the issue is that, for the first part, the ULT does not even fit into the assmebly properly, so I guess I'm gonna be running the RT on off. Then, I found out that the pin I have for the on off I have might be the wrong size for the sear I'm using. Therefore I asume that Emag sears and standard AM/MM sears have different on/off shapes.

??? I'm not sure, so could I get someone's confirmation on that?

1. What valve you have? ULT's don't work on all valves.
2. Are you trying to install lowers to your marker? If so, the on/off pin is different length wise and a ULT will work but isn't advised. They are troublesome to tweak on a E-Mag.

The on/off assembly are one in the same for either the mech or the e-mag, There aren't 2 types of assemblies. Only thing that's different is the length of the pin.

The ULT on/off is completely different from your normal on/off assembly.

[roxcreek]

1. What valve you have? ULT's don't work on all valves.
2. Are you trying to install lowers to your marker? If so, the on/off pin is different length wise and a ULT will work but isn't advised. They are troublesome to tweak on a E-Mag.

The on/off assembly are one in the same for either the mech or the e-mag, There aren't 2 types of assemblies. Only thing that's different is the length of the pin.

The ULT on/off is completely different from your normal on/off assembly.

Thanks, I am trying to install the RT E-Mag Valve onto a AM/MM rail, Intelliframe, Am/MM sear and ULE body. After a little research in the AGD store, I saw how E-Mag on/offs are shorter than Standards. Thus, I have discovered my largest issue with the system: personal ignorance. Could I simply swap my current (E-Mag) On/off pin for the regular RT pin and expect their lengths to be the only functional difference? For that matter, could I just order a RT assembly and pop it right in with some lube, and have it fit? Is there any way I can order a replacement On/off main housing so that I can install the ULT kit?

[vf-xx]

Thanks, I am trying to install the RT E-Mag Valve onto a AM/MM rail, Intelliframe, Am/MM sear and ULE body. After a little research in the AGD store, I saw how E-Mag on/offs are shorter than Standards. Thus, I have discovered my largest issue with the system: personal ignorance.
1)Could I simply swap my current (E-Mag) On/off pin for the regular RT pin and expect their lengths to be the only functional difference?

2)For that matter, could I just order a RT assembly and pop it right in with some lube, and have it fit?

3) Is there any way I can order a replacement On/off main housing so that I can install the ULT kit?

1) Yes
2) Yes
3) No, but there are people who can mod that valve to take ULT.

IIRC: some emag valves can take ULT's and some can't (actually I think most can't) The way to check is to pull out your on/off and see if the part it seats against is flat or stepped. If it's stepped, you can't use an ULT, and you'll have to get your valve modded.