I think BE said you can use lvl 10 shims. Slap some in there and see if it goes away if you don't have a larger carrier. You'll want to put them between the power tube cap and spacer.
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The problem going away relates to holding the trigger, not just pulling the trigger and releasing it. Were you holding the trigger? If so, then your leak out the front problem is not powertube related. The only way there can be a leak out the front, is if the air is getting by the on-off top orings and into the front chamber. There are two orings that seal here and they lie on the top of the on-off top. In a classic valve, they are a smaller white teflon oring inside a yellowish white urethane oring.Originally posted by CatoRockwellExcept for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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It's still looking bad, it leaks hard out the back it also leaks out the front I have a question for the piston pictured above: is that the order the parts should go in? because the rubber seal thing is actually in after the metal disc. When i swapped it around so that the rubber seal was in first and the disc in after and then the spring, the leaking out the back continued but was reduced drastically, but the leaking out the on/off and the bolt was slightly increased.
All parts as far as I can tell I've well lubed and put in the right order. Do I just need to replace the piston? maybe the input pressure from the 850 output crossfire tank is high. Even so, why is it leaking out everywhere?Comment
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Yes that's the order it's suppose to be in. All your doing is flipping the rubber seal around so that circular grove on the rubber seal is facing the metal plate. The smooth side of the rubber seal should be lying against the front of the piston.Originally posted by CatoRockwell
The order of instalation should be the rubber seal, metal plate, spring and set screw.
Didn't you post that the leak out the back was fixedOriginally posted by CatoRockwell
How high do you have your velocity at? If it's set too high, the valve it's designed to vent out the back.
The piston needs to be replaced. It's a temp fix but will keep you in the game till your new parts arrive. How long the fix will last is unknown. The few that i fixed are still working but I have spares in case they do decide to give up the ghost again. The 850 output pressure isn't a problem. The valve can take 3k.Originally posted by CatoRockwellLast edited by Ando; 01-11-2010, 05:48 AM.Comment
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Well the input is fixed at 850. So I have absolutely no idea what is going on. I thought the leaking out the back was fixed, but that's simply because the leaking out the front end increased so drastically that I didn't hear it coming out the back still. but when I went back out there to check on it, it indeed still was leaking.Comment
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ok so I got it fixed so that it isn't leaking out the back. Oddly enough, it is now leaking where the two reg halves come together. I'm guessing that replacing that oring will fix that, but it is also leaking hard down the barrel. What do I do about that? It slows down to a trickle if I hold down the trigger, but it still leaks slightly even when the trigger is held down.
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Leaking between the reg halves can be fixed with a new oring there. Perhaps the oring got pinched or a piece of dirt got lodged in it.Originally posted by CatoRockwellok so I got it fixed so that it isn't leaking out the back. Oddly enough, it is now leaking where the two reg halves come together. I'm guessing that replacing that oring will fix that, but it is also leaking hard down the barrel. What do I do about that? It slows down to a trickle if I hold down the trigger, but it still leaks slightly even when the trigger is held down.
Your leak down the powertube while holding down the trigger is a result of a bad oring combination on your on-off top. Again, either you have a bad oring or a piece of dirt is lodged in there.
Your leak down the powertube while the trigger is released is usually a bad powertube oring or a spacer that is too long. The spacer being too long can be a result of a slightly worn sear. It can be cured by using a shorter powertube spacer.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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Mook, If you don't have access to your AGD rebuild stuff you can have him send the valve to me, I'll fix it, then send it back. LMK......Comment
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I have the 235 spacer in. Is that the largest one? because it comes out pretty easy it's not snug like my carrier for my xvalve lvl10Comment
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Thanks ando, thats what I did and it fixed the leaking out the back problem. Just need to fix the other issues.
Another question for the group my on/off top part does not look like your standard on/off top the groovs are along the top of the piece rather than having holes down the center. Could this be a problem?Comment
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It looks like a castle turret correct??? Flip it over and see if that helps. I honestly can't remember which way I put it in there man... grrrr... I'm so sorry... I don't have any air here or anything to check that stuff with... damnit...Originally posted by CatoRockwell
I've got some pics in my photobucket of various types of on/off tops. There have been sooooo many different ones made that I don't know if any are any better or worse than the original.
Let us know if that changes anything. The flat side should be at the top against the orings I'm pretty certain.
Does it look like the one shown here that is in the middle on the bottom row ~>
As you can see there are quite a few variations, and this is just the set of pics I've taken when I had 6 valves handy... who knows how many other variations are out there.
DMLast edited by DevilMan; 01-11-2010, 01:33 PM.Comment
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Yes, the flat part of the top faces the two orings. That top will work well. The newer top that AGD sells with all the newer classic valves is universal in that there is no way to put it in backwards.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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well I just ordered a full oring kit to rebuild everything, a new reg piston, and a powertube spacer kit. If that doesn't fix everything then I'm just screwed.
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Its a mag. Of course it will work.
Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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