emag hiccups

[Ando]

Sounds like your sear arm is bouncing off the trigger. You sear arm shouldn't be touching the trigger in E mode.

[OneSelfLost]

I agree with Ando, hence I suggested checking your rod lengths.

As for your battery, I had one that would read 20V but wouldn't juice the noid enough to fire the gun. If you know anyone else that has one, maybe try theirs.

On/off's can be tight in the valve, as long as the pin moves freely inside it. Pop it out and oil the Oring inside the on/off as well as the top ones.

[athomas]

The battery is pretty strong, reads 18+ volts. I'll definitely tinker with the lvl10 & shims some more.

I disassembled the whole thing and played with the on/off. It's definitely very tight. How loose should it be? Should it drop down from gravity?

Thanks.

The battery can read a high voltage and still not be able to deliver the amount of required current under load. As the battery gets old the internal resistance goes up. When a high current is required, the internal resistance causes a voltage drop within the battery. Heating makes it worst, which is why single shots may be ok, but rapid firing can cause issues. The batteries only last about 5 or 6 years. If yours have never been changed, then they are over 10 years old. If they haven't been used much but kept topped up, they may be able to last a bit longer.

The on-off can be tight, but still function fine as long as its not unmoveable. It definately won't drop from gravity alone. Quite often when you take the assembly out, the pin will stay with the top orings.

I suspect that you will fix your problem with the level 10 tuning.

Do check the trigger pin. Adjust your trigger stop if the pin is hitting the back of the trigger.

[Tropical Life]

If you can shoot it in manual mode with no hold back, then its your battery. If not its your valve on/off. Make sure the valve pin is a .712 and it is not modified on the tip cause that can cause issues also.

If you have the right tool to take the measurements of the rod go for it, this is something some what rare that someone messed with that. I say that from owning 5 emags recently and none have had that rod messed with.

Again test in manual mode until its rips nice then go electro.

If you have exhausted trying on what we have recommended you can always send your marker to Tunaman and get it fixed he is highly recommended here.

I agree with all the men and boys whom have posted here with their recommendations..best of luck

[jaguarshark]

Thanks all, really great tips here. I'll update when I get some more air to test it out.

[jaguarshark]

I took a closeup on my on/off pin. It looks to be .71" give or take .005".

Should I measure the sear and the other rod?

What's the black weird o-ring above the on/off? Does that look normal?

TIA

[OneSelfLost]

That is your Quad o-ring, and it looks a little chewed.. If you have a replacement, change it over and see if that corrects your issue.

[athomas]

That pin is a bit chewed up. It is a wonder that it functions at all. That is probably why your quad oring is chewed up.

The pin is 0.712" which is the correct one.

[jaguarshark]

Ok cool. Looks like I'll rebuild most of the valve (o-rings, on/off rod) and check the air supply.

I'm pretty confident the battery is alright. I tested it out while pushing the on/off with my finger and the solenoid definitely hits with a lot of painful force.

I'm thinking of the Ninja SHP reg for my tank. Is the 1100PSI output good for an emag? The rail says 600-800psi, don't worry about that right?

Thanks all.

[athomas]

I'm thinking of the Ninja SHP reg for my tank. Is the 1100PSI output good for an emag? The rail says 600-800psi, don't worry about that right?

The 1100psi reg will work fine, but you don't need it for the emag. A regular 850psi tank regulator works fine.

A 1100 psi tank will enhance reactivity, which some people want for their manual retro valve mags. You may get too much reactivity in manual mode on an emag since the on-off pin is already quite short. On e-mode, their won't be a noticable difference from an operator point of view.

[jaguarshark]

ok thanks!

I'm just now waiting on the o-ring and level 10 rebuild kit from AGD.

To be continued...