I have seen a few ideas kicked around, I think this would sell very well if done correctly.Originally Posted by hill160881
I have seen a few ideas kicked around, I think this would sell very well if done correctly.Originally Posted by hill160881
Originally Posted by BTAutoMag
oops, missed that.
NP I can guess on that..I dont have a fitting in mine. nor do I have any around
I drew these up today, thought I would post them up just for fun. The trigger is just a spacer filler for my current drawings.
I have the basic frame geometry done, I believe I am settling in on an 86* frame. I drew several 90* frames that were so-so, but I really like the final 86* drawing. We'll see how it pans out as I progress in the project.
I don't know what's wrong with me luke but I can't make out the shape of the frame in the pic you posted... Can you throw up another picture?
I'm not there yet; it may end up changing as I start working in the different components. Plus I'm still working on the two different trigger guards.
Originally Posted by sQuidvision
Its the new chameleon frame, if you put it down you will never find it again.
crazy, sitting here explaining automags to my wife, "like i always do" drawing almost the same exact thing.Originally Posted by luke
this new frame should be awsome.
EDIT: not as detailed of course, but im getting there.
Last edited by knownothingmags; 08-15-2012 at 11:19 PM.
Just giving you grief! I can't wait to see what you come up with!Originally Posted by luke
In regard to a detachable trigger guard that will allow you to change between double and single triggers, what is more important, looks the ability to use twist lock barrels?
I see why you ask... That's a good question, actually. I'd say being able to use it with a twist lock. But I'm like 52% / 48% on that LOLOriginally Posted by luke
i know that for me if i have a custom trigger on a mag, most of the marker is aftermarket parts, i only have one twist lock body that i use with an intelliframe and that is on my warp fed mag, all other twist locks i own are loaners and have a stock style frame on it...so id say im like 85-90% looks and 10-15% twist lock capable(100% function though)...
hmmmmmmmmmm
Id say using twist lock is important. or just mark the frame so WE can drill out for the twist lock ourselves if we need it
I could care less if it works with twist locks... ULE or bust for me!
Not even close to being possible. If it were I would not have ask the question.Originally Posted by BTAutoMag
Theres is always Docs Cocker conversion part. EDIT: Rethinking this, does it use the twist-lock pin to hole it in place? I've never seen one.Originally Posted by mpsd
or
A butt ugly frame.
or
None removable trigger guard frame. (Which eliminates a super cool trigger design I have in mind for Pneumag or EPmag setups)
Last edited by luke; 08-17-2012 at 12:27 PM.
then no twist lock
Another option is to move the trigger guard forward, but then you could not use the AM rail with a foergrip or pump parts.
Another thing I can add without affecting the foregrip mount or pump attachments (On the AM/MM frame) is enlarging the space inside the trigger guard. However you would have to shorten the sear clevis pin if you want to run a mechanical setup.
It would be as simple as grinding off the tip a specified amount and readjusting to fine tune back to factory spec.
(??)
make the foregrip mount into the frame
Originally Posted by BTAutoMag
Not really interested in that type of setup on this frame.
Last edited by luke; 08-17-2012 at 12:28 PM.
In that case, go for the looks and forget about the twist lock assembly. I'm really curious to see what you come up with in the end. Besides, as I put more thought to it, having a single trigger e-pneu setup will take me to an ULE body anyways.Originally Posted by luke
Small update, I have enlarged the guard for more finger space without sacrificing foregrip and pump add-ons for the AM/MM rails. As of now it looks like it will be an easy adjustment of the clevis pin if you are running a mechanical frame.
I believe I will go to a top bearing trigger design for the Pneu and EP triggers specifically designed for this frame (Wont work in the Intelli frame) I just need to find a place to get them. Also the trigger will have a magnetic return like the Emag, including stops in both directions.
I believe the 45 grip usage on this frame will need to be dropped just so we can have a nice platform for DYI guys to build the frame. 45 grips have mount holes that are less than optimum for this. I'll just do some cool grips in aluminum that will be unique to this frame fitting similar to the CCM frame. With them inlayed a little I can get away with a single screw mount per side putting the screw where ever I see fit.
Does anyone have a 90* fitting from palmers that you can measure and give me the specs on? It will save me some time of having to order them so I can keep moving forward with the cads.
darn you, I just got one of those but my vernier is at work and I wont be back till monday
I am a flinger and I HATE magnetic return triggers. A spring and a tension release magnet in the top where the return stop screw goes is the best for a snappy feel. Trust me a snappy trigger is the way to go, not a mushy mess. The mini and Emag have the worst triggers EVER!
I have put extensive thought into this and it will be necessary for fast Pneu-mag operation to minimize short-stroking. You need to build up enough pressure on the trigger so that when it releases there is enough force to trip a 3-way. Properly set up tension release triggers can allow pneu-mags to rip as fast as EP setups without the short-stroking. Again it needs to be snappy, not mushy.
See the screws on the top of the trigger? The front screw is the one that get closer or further away from the magnet in the frame adjusting the release tension, the screw in the rear sets the forward play.
Make more sense now?
Last edited by hill160881; 08-18-2012 at 10:05 AM.
Luke-My digital micros are down or I would have you the dimensions already. lol Dam the digital age haha.
I buy semi cheap dial calipers because I tend to drop them.Originally Posted by hill160881
Any news here? A sketch, maybe?
Since I didn't see the answer above; yes, Doc's adapter uses the twistlock. It has three holes (not slots) for the twistlock pin that hold the adapter to right, left, or center feed body alignment. That means you have to lift the body off the rail to get the adapter out.Originally Posted by luke
The adapter is really useful when you need to put on a sized barrel, but I've never built a mag with the intent of using one. You also need to consider the "upgrade" people vs the "builder" people. The upgraders take advantage of the modularity of mags and upgrade one thing at a time. You will have to make it clear that your frame won't work on a twistlock body, or suffer the returns.
***
You could make a leaf spring type twistlock that sits in a slot in the top of the frame. If they don't want the "twistlock assembly", then you call the slot "ULE milling".
Last edited by Spider-TW; 08-23-2012 at 08:32 AM.
I'm still plugin away, had to order some parts yesterday to measure so it will probably be a week till I get them. If I were just doing a single design with a single purpose I would probably have the prototype machined already but there’s quite a bit going on here so it's going to take me some time to figure it all out.Originally Posted by mpsd
The air fittings came in today so I can get back to work...