Do you have a ballpark price yet?
It sounds like I might need one of these.
Kory
Do you have a ballpark price yet?
It sounds like I might need one of these.
Kory
Micromag rt, 68 ci flatline,12"ss total freak ,warpdrive, 12volt revi.homemade intelliframe.
I wont know costs until I get the quote back, figure out anodize cost, and screw cost. Im going to try to keep it as reasonable as possible.
I wont have pictures until the prototypes done. I feel my renderings show to much of my design right now. And I dont want someone copying it before I get it out.
That's understandable. i'll be looking forward to the finished product.
...and screw cost. Im going to try to keep it as reasonable as possible.
I like your thinking
-grub
Lol nice. At least i got the punctuation in the right place. Im sure you know what I mean.
Example. I ended up with a $75 order of screws and pins for the run of M86. But everythings stainless steel because the last thing I want on one of my frames is a rusted screw. So Im treating things as if they are for my personal guns.
Stainless steel and aluminum are a big no-no when used together when water is added (most of us use water down to clean our markers). When moister is added it acts like an electrolyte and corrosion will happen. This will cause the screws to weld (used for the lack of a better word) themselves to the aluminum and can actually strip the threads in the aluminum when removing the screws. Yes of course this takes 'time' but generally you ALWAYS want to use anti-seize in this situation.
Take a look at this list. The closer the better. The reactivity of the metals decreases the closer they are in the list.
Metal reactions list
--------------------------------------------
Magnesium
Mg alloy AZ-31B
Mg alloy HK-31A
Zinc (hot-dip, die cast, or plated)
Beryllium (hot pressed)
Al 7072 clad on 7075
Al 2014-T3
Al 1160-H14
Al 7079-T6
Cadmium (plated)
Uranium
Al 218 (die cast)
Al 5052-0
Al 5052-H12
Al 5456-0, H353
Al 5052-H32
Al 1100-0
Al 3003-H25
Al 6061-T6
Al A360 (die cast)
Al 7075-T6
Al 6061-0
Indium
Al 2014-0
Al 2024-T4
Al 5052-H16
Tin (plated)
Stainless steel 430 (active)
Lead
Steel 1010
Iron (cast)
Copper (plated, cast, or wrought)
Nickel (plated)
Chromium (Plated)
Tantalum
AM350 (active)
Stainless steel 310 (active)
Stainless steel 301 (active)
Stainless steel 304 (active)
Stainless steel 430 (active)
Stainless steel 410 (active)
Stainless steel 17-7PH (active)
Tungsten
Niobium (columbium) 1% Zr
Brass, Yellow, 268
Uranium 8% Mo.
Brass, Naval, 464
Yellow Brass
Muntz Metal 280
Brass (plated)
Nickel-silver (18% Ni)
Stainless steel 316L (active)
Bronze 220
Copper 110
Red Brass
Stainless steel 347 (active)
Molybdenum, Commercial pure
Copper-nickel 715
Admiralty brass
Stainless steel 202 (active)
Bronze, Phosphor 534 (B-1)
Monel 400
Stainless steel 201 (active)
Carpenter 20 (active)
Stainless steel 321 (active)
Stainless steel 316 (active)
Stainless steel 309 (active)
Stainless steel 17-7PH (passive)
Silicone Bronze 655
Stainless steel 304 (passive)
Stainless steel 301 (passive)
Stainless steel 321 (passive)
Stainless steel 201 (passive)
Stainless steel 286 (passive)
Stainless steel 316L (passive)
AM355 (active)
Stainless steel 202 (passive)
Carpenter 20 (passive)
AM355 (passive)
A286 (passive)
Titanium 5A1, 2.5 Sn
Titanium 13V, 11Cr, 3Al (annealed)
Titanium 6Al, 4V (solution treated and aged)
Titanium 6Al, 4V (anneal)
Titanium 8Mn
Titanium 13V, 11Cr 3Al (solution heat treated and aged)
Titanium 75A
AM350 (passive)
Silver
Gold
Graphite
Uranium with Cadmium plated screws?
Or just use
i am a firm believer of SS screws, but when you are talking about reactivity, are you talking bare aluminium and stainless or does the anno help at all? but anti-seize of any sort will help. i, for one, work on guns for people and RED LOCTITE is not an anti-seize and should never be used in paintball.
Anno will help some but it's not the right answer on its own. At work we have a few rules based on environment. This ranges widely from exposed decks where we go with conversion coated Al with stainless helicoils which have been wet assembled with a zinc rich primer, fasteners installed into coils with marine grade antiseize. Inside vessel in a "controlled" environment: wet assembly of stainless fasteners directly into annodized Al is acceptable with the right compound. There are lots of options in between too.
We use the Henkel stuff (yup , loc tite branded) and it does let you get away with a lot... It's pretty good stuff.
Keep in mind that it will change the installation torques of fasteners.
EDIT: might also be worth noting that carbon steel into al isn't exactly optimal either
Last edited by Spiritchaser; 01-26-2014 at 07:33 AM.
Finally got some renderings with grip panels. Also shows the new trigger.
Scott(BigEvil) is gonna be testing the prototype for me. All I have is S/S bodied mags.
Also named the frame.
KAM Designs, Demon Series K45AI
First is with the custom fore-grip. Ive lightened that up so its not as "heavy" feeling.
Second is showing the optional Vert asa and a Benchmark ASA gas thru fore-grip. I should have a very limited number of benchmark fore-grips to sell with the frames.
The frame is slotted so you can add whatever fore-grip you want if desired.
Aluminum parts for the Custom Foregrip variant equals right around 5/8 of a pound for weight. Its about as light as it can do. Plenty of internal milling and weight removal everywhere. That weight does not include any hardware (screws, sear, pins)
That's nashtee Keith...nashtee
Me likey! I'm definitely in for one without the custom fore grip.
Looks good, I think you nailed.
I like both.
As far as mounting the optional vert asa does it pinch the rail then bolt up as the old style does from the top?
And if so couldn't you do the same with the custom vert grip?
ANY HOW great looking uniframe
Wonderfull !
I like both.
I'll take one for sure !
The most difficult will be to choose which one !
It does bolt the same way. Just wraps the front of the frame to give a more complete part.
Why chose one. Just buy all the parts. That way you can swap them to whatever you want.
Once Scott(BigEvil) signs off on the prototype being perfect I will start a pre-order. Still gotta figure out a pricing structure because I can see already that everyone's gonna want a different set of parts.
Last edited by cougar20th; 01-28-2014 at 01:49 PM.
[QUOTE=cougar20th;2851013]It does bolt the same way. Just wraps the front of the frame to give a more complete part.
Cool just had to clarify for the masses.
Great design!
Can't wait to get this project done and then on to the next.