I've tried the RT on/off and it leaks horribly. I'm thinking the RT pin is too short for the classic valve. I bought a long pin from Tuna and when I have time I'm going to shave it down.
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I've tried the RT on/off and it leaks horribly. I'm thinking the RT pin is too short for the classic valve. I bought a long pin from Tuna and when I have time I'm going to shave it down.
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Leaks from where ??
Of course it works-its AGD
The standard length of an RT on-off pin is the same as a classic on-off pin. It would have to be significantly shorter than the standard lenth to cause problems. Even then, it would only cause ful auto issues and then possibly bolt stick which would then allow air to leak out the front of the bolt. If it's leaking anywhere else or if it leaks when the bolt is fully reset, then the pin is not the problem.Originally Posted by fstop_22
If the retro on-off assembly is working without leaks in the retro valve, then it should work without leaks in the classic valve. There are no differences in the overall size of the on-off assemblies. If the retro valve is an older one it won't have the larger outer oring at the on-off top. You will have to add the larger outer oring to the on-off assembly when you install it in the classic valve.
Last edited by athomas; 03-17-2014 at 10:56 AM.
Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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I'm going to take a look at it again today or tomorrow and grab a video if I think it will help. I used both o-rings with the RT on/off and it was leaking out of the power tube quite heavily if I remember correctly.
Of course it works-its AGD
You are still using the level 7 bolt in the classic valve, right? If the bolt resets properly but leaks out the front, then the powertube spacer is too long. If the bolt does not reset properly, then the powertube spacer is too short. Try using a longer powertube spacer. If you don't have additional spacers, add a couple of level 10 shims in front of the spacer that is installed.
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I either remembered the issue wrong or its doing something new. The ReTro Valve works with no issues. The classic valve works w no issues. I drop the RT on/off in the Classic and drop it in the setup the ReTro valve came from and absolutely nothing happens. The solenoid clicks but nothing else. Maybe I remembered the issue wrong, does a short pin make sense now?
Of course it works-its AGD
That's strange. If both valves work individually in the same setup, and the retro on-off assembly works in the retro valve, then it should also work in the classic valve. The pin length shouldn't need to change if it worked in the retro valve previously. I don't know the answer to this one. It has to be something that is being overlooked.
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The classic valve works with a different on/off in its original set-up but when I put the RT on/off in the classic valve and drop it in the setup with the hyperframe, I get nothing. I've been busy with a few things. When I get a few minutes I'll get back to it.
Of course it works-its AGD
The retro valve works in the hyperframe thought, right? Then the classic valve should also work with the hyperframe using the same on-off assembly.
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I got a new RT on/off today from a friend and it is leaking air out the front. So I checked the power tube and this valve is still using a spring instead of a spacer. I tried every spacer I had but there was no noticeable difference. I just tuned my other classic valve and one spacer is missing from the set. The valve leaks immediately when air is attached to the asa and the bolt, at times, will cycle (or try to). Would you suggest using the biggest spacer I have and then try shims?
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Just send it to tuna already
Of course it works-its AGD
If it is leaking, use a shorter spacer, not a longer one. Put the spring on end on a flat surface and place your shortest powertube spacer beside it. If the spacer is shorter than the spring, use it. If not, you can sand down your spring. If you have some sandpaper, place it sand side up on a flat surface. Rub one end of the spring against the sandpaper until it shaves enough metal off the spring to shorten its length enough to stop your leak.
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As I was about ready to chuck this valve through my kitchen window, I realized that when I get this working the way I want it, it will need a level 10 bolt in it to prevent chopping. So, I ordered a level 10 for this valve. I will post my results when it arrives and I've had time to work with it (either a video of me throwing it out my kitchen window or a video of it working). Thanks for all the help.
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Got my level 10 bolt kit yesterday and got it installed with no issues. The hyperframe now works perfectly with my classic valve (a new RT on/off installed). I promised to take video but I am almost out of paint. I wanted to free up my ReTro valve because I wanted to run a ninja SHP tank for some RTing action. When the tank arrived the ReTro valve worked great but now its acting a little sluggish. I guess if it isn't one thing, its another but I guess that will be for another thread if I need help. Thanks to all who helped me get this setup working. Without the help I'm sure I would have been replacing my kitchen window.
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