Electronic Autococker 3-Way

[nicad]

yes youll need a 4-way valve. some goon started the whole "3-way autocoker valve" typo/misinformation and its stuck for good.
to power-drive (ie- no spring/constant air return, etc..) a ram IN and OUT, you need a 4-way valve.

hope this helps..

out!

[Angry Man]

That does help, actually, although I called some pneumatics store an hour away from me and they beat you to it. Actually, I asked about a MAC 44 something or other mini-4 way valve that weighs 1.6 oz. It seems like a good bet if I could get hoses between it and my cocker that it would work. I'm also finalizing a design for this thing where the switch that turns on the solenoid will also be the trigger stop (which will be adjustable for timing and adjusting the trigger pull), and I can manually time the cocker to fire right before it.

[nerobro]

The Mark 3 cocker from PMS was a normal cocker with a microswitch setup on thr trigger to trip a solinoid. the trigger was something on the order of one mm. it still had a mechanical sear.

[Ken Kaniff]

huh huh huh....i want an electro autococker

[InvisibleBill]

I known that the guy in a pro shop in Portland oregon can do 14 bps on his autococker, but it is mechanical, no electronics. He also has a $1000+ cocker. He also play on Exile, Am B of the NPPL, which might have something to do with why his gun is so nice. Oh, and does sandridge modify, or do they make there own autococker?? IB.

[Reo5th]

Angry - you should start browsing through www.radioshack.com for an appropriate switch. I can help you dremel out the gripframe so you can mount the 9V battery and the switch just like my intelliframe. It'd be nice to see a picture though.

[the electrician]

I've had a homemade electro-cocker for three years. it hasn't always been the same though. at first I concentrated on a direct solenoid actuated sear, then a highly modified 4-way(the oracle cocker now uses the same design I used then). then I made a solenoid that mounted onto a frictionless 4-way. now I use a mac valve for the recocking and a direct solenoid actuated sear much like the race gun design, but a bit simpler.
if you really want the most bang for the least amount of buck, design a solenoid actuated sear and use an oracle cocker 4-way. this combination will give you a really short, light pull for for the least amount of money and the simplest circuit could be used to control it.not to mention everything could be contained in the grip.
if you go with a solenoid valve for the recock and still use the mechanical activation of the sear, it will never be as short or light as it could be the other way around.

[Angry Man]

Very impressive, the electrcician. That sounds really, really cool. I called up my local electronic/pneumatic warehouse place and they said that they sold MAC series 44 valves for 25-40 dollars. I figured I could build a whole electronic four way set up for around 50-60 dollars, which isn't that much more than the orracle four way. So if I do any electronic conversion that'll be a part of it.

I never really considered a sear that was activated by a solenoid since I would honestly have no idea how to build one. (My best bet would probably be taking apart a cheap spyder electro-frame.)

Also, my ultimate dream would be to combine the two processes (like you've done) but the one thing I've never been able to understand is how an electro cocker would be able to "time" itself. The two steps in the trigger pull have to be the exact right amount of time apart, and the pneumatics have to be actuated for just the right amount of time. A micro-switch in the grip (very end of the pull) would accomplish this prety well, and would also be a trigger stop, but I can't think of how I'd be able to combine the processes.

Anyway, I guess what I'm saying is that I'm very curious about how you built your homemade electro-cocker. I'm pretty new to valves, solenoids, and everything so I might not understand all of it, but I'd really like to know what you did, especially relating to timing and getting a a solenoid to set off the sear. I'm also very impressed.

[eljimbo]

Here's my beast. It uses Humphrey's H040-4e1 solenoid valves.

[spliff]

Your not going to decrease the trigger pull at all with your design. The new WGP 4ways can already be set incredibly short. The limiting factor in the trigger pull on an autococker is the sear/lug, not the pnuematic valve. Thats why the Nitroduck electro conversion as never popular, it still used a mechanical sear.

[EastAl]

i was always interested in an electro cocker, even back in the day. Angry Man has a little work ahead of him, but it looks like he is gonna make something work.

btw, my best bps was 16. that was with my own cocker, which i did all my own work to. you don't need an e-gun to shoot fast. but, it is a little easier!


Al

[nerobro]

the nitroduck conversion was never popular due to price.

the pull could be set less than one millimeter. So length wasn't the question. If you look at most electros that people actually shoot these days the pull is in the 1-3mm range. something signifigant. (and you can get a cocker in the 2-3mm range with the right 4way) Also note the nitro duck version did require timing. That's something the F5 didn't need. (that was the other electrococker at the time) Also note, that electros didn't 'catch on" untill long after this gun was put out of production.

the Mark3 autococker disappeared at about the same time as the mechanical matrix was being passed around skyball ;-) In other words... it was long dead before people really wanted what it had to offer.

Electrocockers time themseves by having timing values hard coded into them. They can control when both the recock and sear release happen. At least that's the case with the sandridge and raceframes. the centerflag and mark 3 both need to be mechanically timed.

[eljimbo]

You must be jesus if you can move your finger at 16bps...

[Vegeta]

Electro-Pnematic cockers have been around for a long time now.

[EastAl]

Originally posted by eljimbo
You must be jesus if you can move your finger at 16bps...

no, i just had a really smooth gun. everything done to it, was done for the express purpose of ripping off alot of balls fast. and shoot fast i could.