AO: We are back from the dead... again! After an 18 day outage, we are finally alive and well. Who knew how complicated updating software/databases from 2008 would be. I still have alot of tweaks to make, but my main goal was getting everything patched and updated to 2026.
Vbulletin 6 has changed alot since 2008 so we will have a ton of new features to dig into.
I am considering putting a warp feed on my Minimag - Hopper Left. Is it difficult to do with hopper left versus hopper right, or does it matter? Also, is it very hard to tune it in. i live in Great Falls Montana (Originally from San Diego, I don't claim Montana as my home - lol) so no one here has one (probably never even heard of it). Please note that i installed my level 10 (with help from this forum) by myself. Is it just as frustrating as the LX or worse? Please let me know your opinions. Also, is it worth it to buy a warp feed??
well depends on if u like warp feed or not. body style doest matter much, but which side of gun do u want ur warp feed on? teh better body style will only help give u a tighter warp setup.
yes i like the whole idea of the warp feed, but is it everything its cracked up to be. can the warp go on the right side of the gun? i always see them of the left side of guns. if so, thats what i want, and i have hopper right so it would set up perfect, right?
ok so u want the warp on the right side(yes it can be put there). now, while you will have no problem using hopper right body, if you had the $$ to spend on a hopper left body, then i would go buy one of those, because in the end it will give you a tighter warp feed setup.
Can a warp be used on every marker out there? I'm assuming most of em, but what about with intellifeed. The site was good with instructions for an intelliframe gun and also for an angel, but does anyone know how to hook up intellifeed for other guns like my evil omen?
I have been reading this thread for a while and have come finally gotten my own warp wityh a 12 VDC mod. My problem is that it always spins. Now Havoc said to get a 100uf (35 VDC) cap and installed in after the output of my regulator. (Reg part number is 276-1771, had no model A's at all in store).Did not work at all. Trouble shot and hooked the cap up to the LED and it shows dimly but not as bright as it did with no Cap in the system. I think the cap is rated faw too high however no smaller voltage raiting caps exsist at my radio shack. Please need some help already mised using it in a tourney.
and that my friends, is why it is more beneficial do do the bigcell mod, which provedes more than u need. and to stay away from 12v cuz there is no need for it. unfortunately, i can not help u out bro
Alrighty fellas, i have a few questions. Ist off, i read all 13 pages of the thread (which i wish i had found before i bought my warp).
1) Like the amazing_spyder man, I can't seem to make my potomener( or whatever the exact name is) to make my sensitivity change much. I have to beat the tar out of the warp to make it spin.
2) On the Jumpers, i am pretty lost. I appreciate the pics Star_Base, because they did help, but i am not quite able to make out your positions and compare them to mine. Right now for my Dwell time, both of my Plastic dealios with metal bridges (i'm sure they are the jumpers, but don't want to mess up our communication!) are horizontal. and above the dwell time on you diagram, you have #s 1-4. ?.
3)Now for the other part of the jumpers, of the sensor, mine are stacked vertical, in the horizontal postion. You have 3 positions which (i just now saw the third one.).
I hope you guys aren't too confused with my explination. As of now i am shooting an impulse, and hope to have it setup with the warp in intellifeed, but not sure how to go about that. I am not a soldering/electrical guy, so i'll probably be PMing havoc about that and the other cool mods he has.
Anyways, for now, i want the warp to be working via the vibration method, but that is no dice. Anyhelp will be appreciated.
The jumpers come stacked in the horizontle position.
Once you move them to the vertical position, that will reduce the spin time.
I took 2 of them and moved them to the verticle position.
If you leave them all in the original horizontle position they will just spin ilke a mofo. You dont want that. Each Jumper you move to the verticle position will reduce the amount of time the Warp spins.
The red jumpers are horizontle and the green ones are verticle. It does not matter which jumpers you move. They all effect dwell time equally.
Now wicked sports has a jumper less board out. Its going to cost $30 and I think alot of people will probably go jumperless. Simpley because they have the money and I dont.
I set my dwell time in the middle but I have a blowback gun. If its not senseing good turn it all the way towards the arrow till it stops. DOnt force it.
If the inteliframe comes with a an intelilink, you can plug that into the warp feed I think but again more money. $140.
The Sensor Negative Jumper I just having hanging off the edge of a Jumper. It does not need to be connected to anything.
Ok. All of my jumpers are in the horzontal postion and it definatly doesn't spin like it should. Sounds like i need to find out how much tech work will cost
on the warp (i bought it used).
As for the pictures, they look kinda scanned, but they are pictures none the less. Thank you for your help.
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