BlackVCG's ULT Thread

[Grasshopper]

I'm still confused. I've tried just about every shim arrangment I can think of. I put my old on/off assy back in, and the gun shoots fine.

Only when I put in the ULT, and shoot, the bolt sticks forward. I REALLY wanna get this thing working. Please, anyone?

[afrankart]

My bolt sticks on occasion, and I was told that if you smack the back of your valve kinda hard with the palm of your hand, it will reset your bolt. This works for me, and the more I play with it, the less it sticks.

[SlipknotX556]

Thanks Black, the pics have helped me. Now if you can get that install video up, I will love you... I dont want to have to send you my mag to get the ult installed

[Jerhew]

Originally posted by SlipknotX556
Thanks Black, the pics have helped me. Now if you can get that install video up, I will love you... I dont want to have to send you my mag to get the ult installed

dude
honetly its a breeze to install(as long as you didn't have a single o-ring retro valve like i did...)

there are a few people here who seem to be having some problems getting it to work reliably and we still haven't completely figured out why
but on the whole
it's rediculously easy

[Grasshopper]

*sigh*
I had to be one of those few :)

[QUINCYMASSGUY]

issue

Yeah, I'm definitely not the only one having this issue and it definitely started the minute the ULT trigger was added. So basically my Mag is unreliable now, and I am not playing until I resolve this because showing up to Boston Paintball paying $80/case and risking not having a working gun to use isn't worth it.

Tuning it was easy, but something else is the reason for this.

[Grasshopper]

Yea... Maybe there was a batch of bad ULTs? Or something? I only know of a few (10 or so?) peolpe having this problem. I really hope I can get this working soon.

[QUINCYMASSGUY]

thinking

I was just thinking... has anyone had the same issue of rapid fire cause the bolt to not reset or gassing it up causing the sear to not reset? The issue of chargeup not gassing didn't happen until the first time I had it go down during a game. I'm wondering if...

It initially starts by a chuff where it pushes the bolt forward just a little and the carrier causes bolt stick or some air remains from the level 10. Because the spring tension and stored energy in the spring is minimal from it not even getting a quarter of the way into the breech that the spring isn't pushing back enough to get the bolt clear of the stick or to push hard enough on the leftover air in the lvl 10 from not being able to vent. The reactive effect on the sear is a third of what it was and perhaps the higher reactivity was enough before to snag the tip of the bolt and force it back, but with less reactivity now it can't do that. So if it happens once, taking off the hopper, pushing the bolt back, then gassing up, might resolve it. I am going to play with that this weekend but it's scary because my carrier is definitely not tight and a tighter carrier was working fine before I put the ULE in.

[Jerhew]

Re: thinking

Originally posted by QUINCYMASSGUY
...my carrier is definitely not tight and a tighter carrier was working fine before I put the ULE in.

is the bigger carrier leaking at all?
if you're having bolt stick problems i think it goes without saying that you should run the biggest carrier you can without it leaking and also the heaviest spring while still being able to have the gun fire...

[QUINCYMASSGUY]

fixed

OK, got mine working now. It needed some serious lubing which I guess means it requires a little more attention in that department than it did before the ULT. I got a fill (finally) and had changed the carrier already as I mentioned and lubed everything. It must have been that the bolt was not fully resetting because of stick so the sear wouldn't reset, and when I gassed it up the sear was being held down by the bolt. So for those of you with the same issue, try that. Kind of scary a mag requires that much lubing now because I do oil it regularly.

[Jerhew]

Re: fixed

Originally posted by QUINCYMASSGUY
Kind of scary a mag requires that much lubing now because I do oil it regularly.

i noticed that too...
hopefully once it's well broken in, it won't need as much attention...still it's not that bad...drop or 2 of oil before playing for the day
atleast we don't have to mess with sear lug adjustments or timing rods

[AkumA]

so is it certain that the ULE trigger needs serious lubing to stop the issue?

[QUINCYMASSGUY]

lube

Lube the oring in the power tube and also make sure it is the loosest possible without leaking, lube the ULT and make sure to get the oil in the center of the orings, it is a tight fit and this is where it is needed. This is what resolved my issue, and the important part to note is that my setup was fine before the ULT but due to the lower operating pressure on the on/off the oring causing pin stick is easier.

[BlackVCG]

The higher quality oil you use, the less frequently you'll have to oil your gun. Autolube is an OK oil, but it in my opinion it doesn't cut it in a higher performance Mag setup that has LX and ULT. With both of those setups, the fit of the o-rings and how smooth things are moving is very critical to keeping the gun running well and reliable.

The problem with autolube is that it drys out the o-rings and the oil itself drys out and doesn't keep things lubed.

Ever since I've been using KC Trouble Free oil, my o-rings stay as clean looking as they were when they were brand new and I never have gun issues that are caused by an inadequate amount of oil.

If you use autolube, do you ever wonder why your o-rings look all brown and dried out and brand new o-rings in parts kit are nice and clear?

[Jerhew]

im also very fond of the lube that ats uses and sells with their markers(at-85...) it also keeps your o-rings nice and looking like new...not all brown and dry
unfortunately i don't know if they just buy a brand name oil and repackage it as "ats lube"
autolube, the lube palmer sends out with their markers and probably most other lubes that come stock with pb markers are probably just plain airtool oil i imagine...
not really sure though...hrm
someone ought to do a thread on lubes...
they are very important to your guns reliability and consistancy...