SEAR MOD: CHUFF less with your ULT, still SAFE for your BOLT

[Jack & Coke]

Originally posted by MattG
JACK AND COKE YOU ARE THE JESUS OF PAINTBALL!! BE MY FATHER PLEASE!!! NICE WORK MY BOY!!!!

LOL!



:)

[FooTemps]

you drilled the sear hole upwards of the original hole... what if we had a new sear built with a hole .15" below the original hole? would it yield the same effect as above? or would it be lighter and longer?

[Jack & Coke]

Originally posted by FooTemps


what if we had a new sear built with a hole .15" below the original hole? would it yield the same effect as above? or would it be lighter and longer?

Suppose there was enough material below the stock hole to drill another hole. Let's say...

sear mod 1 = hole drilled 0.15" above stock hole
sear mod 2 = hole drilled 0.15" below stock hole

If * = LENGTH, then...

ULT + sear mod 1 = *
ULT + stock sear = **
ULT + sear mod 2 = ***

If * = PRESSURE, then...

ULT + sear mod 1 = ***
ULT + stock sear = **
ULT + sear mod 2 = *

If * = CHUFF, then...

ULT + sear mod 1 = *
ULT + stock sear = **
ULT + sear mod 2 = *****

[FooTemps]

Originally posted by Jack & Coke


Suppose there was enough material below the stock hole to drill another hole. Let's say...

sear mod 1 = hole drilled 0.15" above stock hole
sear mod 2 = hole drilled 0.15" below stock hole

If * = LENGTH, then...

ULT + sear mod 1 = *
ULT + stock sear = **
ULT + sear mod 2 = ***

If * = PRESSURE, then...

ULT + sear mod 1 = ***
ULT + stock sear = **
ULT + sear mod 2 = *

If * = CHUFF, then...

ULT + sear mod 1 = *
ULT + stock sear = **
ULT + sear mod 2 = *****

hahahaha, good point about the chuffing... maybe we'd need an on off with more return pressure if we had it like that.

[FooTemps]

...Hmm... I got an idea... How about this:

Since we have multiple holes drilled into the sear, we could fit extenders onto it and then lock them into place by placing pins through the holes. That way we have a longer sear to work with and there will be no damage.

[Hexis]

Why would you want a longer pull?

[FooTemps]

it would make the trigger pull lighter

[QUINCYMASSGUY]

start

At the start I was thinking of that, and the reason I ruled it out was it makes chuffing even easier to do, especially at higher ROF. I think unless the trigger was walkable, there is way more benefit to making it shorter and heavier to have an improvement in distance, slight loss of lightness, and then an added bonus of less chuffs. Go short pull and use two fingers at once, you'll rip

[luke]

So, was this put on the back burner?

[QUINCYMASSGUY]

back burner

Luke, I did what I could for the project, but have no intention of wasting my time and money that it would involve identifying and continuously testing for the ideal configuration when AGD and such showed zero support and assistance for two AOers who seperately showed innovation and interest in advancing the Mag further and devised this idea (J+C and myself both came up with this but without either of us knowing the other was doing it). I'm not whining, before I get flamed saying I am, I just don't care to be concerned with it anymore as no matter what it won't put mech mags above vikings which smoke any mag in my opinion and cost about the same as a fully-loaded mech mag (all the ULE stuff). I also traded my Mag and now shoot a Merlin and will probably go with a Viking next anyways so I am focusing my time and effort on ideas related to them, with some moving along and the fabrication being the hurdle as getting custom pneumatics made is insanely pricey. I hope somebody continues with this idea as it should be great, but I will probably be minimally involved, if even that.

[FooTemps]

wow... that's a good deal you're getting on that viking or merlin or whatever! Where'd you get it... If I could get a tricked out viking for 450 point me there! (yes, I calculated the overall cost of my ule rtpro to cost 450)

Anyway, I didn't think there was ever backburner for member ideas. It was just like "hey, why don't we try the?" then we did.

[QUINCYMASSGUY]

lol

LOL, it is a Merlin which is autococker-like and it's going to cost more than 450. Got raw body and most parts (tornado valve, lightning bolt, SCM reg, etc) from Bensongg and have a Shocktech Bomb and a WGP Drop Forward coming and bought a WGP Hinge, AND have it at Destructive Customs being carved and annoed right now so it set me back about $300-350 on top of that trade but it's going to be sick (once I rebuild it from scratch).

Viking for 450... point me there too, but no chance of that happening

Someone wants to take the idea and run with it, cool... I just don't have the material to test it or the interest to keep going with it. I'm playing around with electropneumatics and valve designs now.

[FooTemps]

Re: lol

Originally posted by QUINCYMASSGUY
LOL, it is a Merlin which is autococker-like and it's going to cost more than 450. Got raw body and most parts (tornado valve, lightning bolt, SCM reg, etc) from Bensongg and have a Shocktech Bomb and a WGP Drop Forward coming and bought a WGP Hinge, AND have it at Destructive Customs being carved and annoed right now so it set me back about $300-350 on top of that trade but it's going to be sick (once I rebuild it from scratch).

Viking for 450... point me there too, but no chance of that happening

Someone wants to take the idea and run with it, cool... I just don't have the material to test it or the interest to keep going with it. I'm playing around with electropneumatics and valve designs now.

Wanna help me find out the sear geometry for an electro y-grip? lol

[Jack & Coke]

I've been a bit side tracked lately... I now have two drilled sears (at different locations) ready for testing.

If anyone is interested, PM me and I'll drill you one and you can test it yourself. :)

[abaez]

I'll try it! My trigger is setup perfect just the way I like it but I'd love to be able to walk it.