I picked this up on ebay with 3yrs left on the hydro. My goal is to pick up an Xvalved mag hence, the adjustable high pressure tank.

Couple of questions....

The seller had it re-hydroed last year and the reg service by a SP tech so they "should" be good to go. I can easily unscrew the reg from the tank by hand.....is that right? I got it on there pretty tight now but I've never taken a reg off an empty tank before so I didn't know if there was any sealant that needed to be used.

And how do I go about mounting this thing??

I don't have an RT'd mag to use it on but I wanna test it on my Minimag so I can verify that it works and leave the guy feedback.

When the time comes, I'm assuming I just crank the knob on the end and watch the pressure right?

No, it's definitely not OK that you can screw it off by hand. It's not going to come loose when it's filled (especially since it's not a screw in) but it should definitely be tighter.

Well I tightened it pretty tight by hand.....I guess it was just loose when it got here. The pressure will keep it tight as well wont it?

Yes, it will. However.. it should still not be loose enough. It's supposed to be tightened to a specific torque. However, a lot of people (myself included) have just hand tightened (using a vice) with some blue loctite.

Either way, you really don't want it loose enough to unscrew by hand.

All SP regs are designed to be just screwed onto the tank. No need for lock tite or sealant. The threads are cut so that they engage the tank when filled and you won't be applying any torque to the tank because it is fixed. Any pressure and the tank is not coming off plus there is a bleed hole on halfway up the threads so if you were able to unscrew it to that point it would just bleed. Its much safer then a screw in system.

I think you have your answers about the tank, as for the reg, any dove tail rail should do for mounting the reg to the grip frame. Usually a smartparts S-rail, but other rails and drops should work. AS far as turning it on, there is a small knob on the underside of the reg. First you turn that on, then you use the large knob on the front to adjust the pressure. Hope that helps.

I NEVER use loctite on a bottle reg. I've had tanks that had massive amounts of red loctite on the threads before and it was a night mare getting the reg off for a re-hydro. I have even had one reg twist off leaving the threads in the tank. (yes I know to heat the loctite first)

The pressure will keep it plenty tight.

Awesome, thanks guys!

If anyone has a black rail that would work on this tank they're selling......shoot me a PM

One other thing. Max Flow regs are not always set up to be high pressure output. You might have to get the high pressure spring kit.

Since the tank will not require screwing on or off the ASA, its "looseness" should not be an issue. Whatever you do use NO LOCTITE on your tank threads.

Shame you didn't get this two weeks ago, I just sold one

Well I hope thats not the case

They still have HP springs in stock ( they still have tons of junk they couldn't sell in stock ) , call them & talk to a Tech guy , they should be able to hook you up

i'll 2nd the locktite part , if you are ever lucky enough to fly to a PB game with your gear , you will have to take the bottle off the reg

a lot of adjustable regs are easily removed from bottles because you never have to unscrew the bottle from the marker. Preset regs DO need to be fitted correctly so that the reg does not unscrew from the bottle when you are taking it off of the marker. I own a MacDev push button pre set that i can undo by hand.

TeaQue,,,

Shirow sold me a matte black System-X 3" Drop Forward (when I bought his Flatline) that will work with your system... PM me your Address and I will drop it in the mail for you...

WK2

Well, that was exactly the drop I was talking about

About the SP tech service it had...

I had mine done three times by SP techs and it kept leaking by and venting off. I watched them replace various parts and orings. Later I realized that they never wiped out the old grease before they added more grease and parts. I cleaned it out and that was good for about a year of use (10 cases or so). Since then it sometimes (less than once a day) starts to vent a little. If I shut it off and turn it back on, it stops.

If the on/off leaks and you're going to replace the oring for it, polish the hole in the on/off plug before you put it back together. That edge usually cuts the oring and makes it leak.

I have used and still own 3 or 4 of these regs and the older style too, and they are pretty good. The tank should be gtg if it’s still in hydro.

The reg only needs to be hand tight on the tank, once you put air in it the threads will seat and not be able to be taken out. None of the SP regs that I have or used have ever been tightened more than a bit over hand tight and they come from the factory that way too normally. That’s part of the reason they are so great, if you need to fly with the tank you can remove the valve whenever there's no pressure and show the TSA guy that there is nothing in there w/o using a tool or anything.

The last few times I have used that same style reg there has been air leaking past the on/off o-ring. It normally only gets annoying when it sets for awhile and then I want to use it but its empty. The on/off o-ring is easy to change but requires removing the reg from the tank and backing out a long set screw on the bottle side of the reg then the on/off pin slides out and then you can use a pick to remove the old o-ring and place a new one in there. These regs do need some o-ring grease on all of the o-rings or there will be other leaks.

For you guys that have regs leaking out the air port when it's off.

The on/off handle on the bottom of the reg has a small oring inside the cavity that it goes into. It rides on that oring and sometimes gets cut. Just replace it and you should be good. If it keeps getting cut, get a file and ream out the hole on the arm where the air goes through. Get some 400 grit sandpaper and smooth out any burs. That should fix your leak problem permanently.

That cold rolling rock looks sooooooo good right now.

It was delicious, so were the 3 I had after that

Well I got the tank filled yesterday with no issues and today I hooked it up to a gun.

Couple of things I noticed.

1. Its almost impossible to crank the pressure up with the gun pressurized, if you degass you can crank it up easily.

2. I got it up to 1200psi but it was hard as HELL cranking it up, even with the gun degassed.

3. After I cranked it up that high and shot a few shots the on/off wouldn't turn the tank off. If I have it set to "off" you can crack off some quick shots and watch the gauge drain but then it slowly fills back up. The only way to turn the tank off now is by unscrewing the adjustment knob almost to the point that it comes off.

How can I fix this?

Your oring is cut. If you don't have a rebuild kit the internal oring for the RT on/off works perfectly. Might just want to ream the hole out so it doesn't happen again cause it's going to. If you need pics of what I'm talking about let me know. I'll disassemble my reg for ya.

Well crap......pics would definately help.

I wonder if I can find the oring at the hardware store?

Actually don't worry about pics, the seller was kind enough to point me to this site: http://www.zdspb.com/tech/mguide/regs/main_inline.html

The pic on the right is pointing to a hole. The hole contains the Oring that's bad and needs replacing. Now I've already tried this and it works, you can reuse that same Oring if you don't have a replacement (depending if it's not torn all the way through). Just flip it around on the good side and reinstall everything. My problem the first time around was not reaming out that hole on the arm (read below) and it took a chunk out from the good side of the oring. Like I said, if you have a RT rebuild kit you can use the internal Oring for the RT on/off. It's a perfect fit.

Now if you look at the pic to the left you'll see a small hole between the other 2 packing's. That's the hole you want to ream out. You can use a jewelers circular file or a small drill bit and ream out the sharp outer edge of the hole. That will keep it from cutting again.


EDIT: DO NOT USE A DRILL IF YOU PLAN ON DOING THE DRILL BIT METHOD!!! Hold the bit between your thumb and index finger and just roll the drill bit CC onto the hole of the arm. You'll see a small bit of the soft aluminum cut loose. Uses 400 grit sand paper to smooth any burs left by either the file or drill bit and you should be good.

Edit # 2: Make sure you completely remove the screw holding the arm in place. I made the mistake in not doing it and thought I had enough of it out. Basically, I ended up scratching surface of the arm. Didn't affect the performance one bit, just left a nice little grove.

FYI, I took your advice after my rebuild kit came in yesterday but apparently I didnt do a good enough job because it shredded another o-ring tonight when I went to test it

This time I went all out and probably reamed out twice as much as I did yesterday and took the time and really polished down the edges with 400 grit, then 600 grit. Now it looks like a tiny "bowl" more than a hole. Hopefully this will fix that annoying issue....

On a side note, I managed to play a bit with my new Xvalved mag I got today (and the whole reason I bought this reg)

Cranked that thing up to 1200psi and it was insane

Heres a quick video from my iphone though you guys have surely seen as much (this is my first time firing a mag with anything but a classic valve )

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NyyfSwMPpP4

Hey TeaQue,,,

The drop looks nice on there... When you get you valve fully fixed I would like to see how the whole thing looks mounted up...

Also it sounds sweet Bro !!!

WK2

Haha thanks again! I'll definately get pics of the whole thing once I get a barrel.

That reg like the Geddon can go higher then 1200 psi, just buy yourself an appropriate gauge. Wouldn't recommend going any higher then 1500 on macro line (and that's only on certain macro line) and going higher then 1600 all together due to the burst disk.

Not sure what the capabilities are for that reg. I have 2 of them myself but play mainly with my Geddon regs. The adj knob is a pain in the backside to adj I know. I been using a adj wrench to adj the pressure till I figure out a better way to do it.. One of these days I'll get around to testing the limits of this reg. I'm in the process of tinkering with one of my Geddons to get it pushing 2k+

Going for the speed record

Well I cranked it a bit past 1200 last night but I don't really need to go any higher. I bet my Halo Too won't keep up to with how it was set in that video anyways

and yeah this thing is a PITA to adjust without a wrench!