I'm pretty sure with as many nice asa's as there is on the market he wouldnt make one that doesnt bleed the air.
I'm pretty sure with as many nice asa's as there is on the market he wouldnt make one that doesnt bleed the air.
You never know some things get over looked. 😁
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I am sure about that. Nowadays, having the ASA that can bleed the tank out should be about standard.
I would have to see more of thd ASA and where the line pickup is, but i would assume that if you were industrious, that you can use any of the Tslot ASAs that are now coming out, especially the EZ ASA from Inception Designs.
I would put a gun to my head before selling a non-bleeding ASA but seriously, it's just a straightforward "on/off knob" ASA, ultra reliable and time-tested. It's also literally the cheapest and simplest type of bleeding ASA to manufacture, so costs are kept down.
The frame can be used with a #10-32 bolt-on or T-slot ASA if you don't want to use the internal air routing. Remember the goal is for anyone to buy the base frame without the frills, and be able to use it with existing gas-thru foregrips or homebrew pneumag valves without buying the nummech kit (or if you want to leave the option open for later). But in order to do that, the frame needs to be compatible with bolt-on ASA's along with the superior T-slot ASA mounting method, along with the frame-routed air supply. But...there aren't any existing high pressure ASAs out there that fulfill all those goals, so we came up with a new one that could do it while still maintaining compatibility with all those other mounting systems. And it'll be compatible with hypothetical gas-thru accessories when the time comes (another thing people have requested).
Anyway I hope that illuminates some of the unknowns. If you wish I can take some pictures of the ASA for more info. (although remember some features will change)
Gun p0rn is always welcome.
But only till you are ready to share them. I too agree with the T-slot being far better than any other design. But, i personally never dealt with a POPs ASA & don't know the routing of the EZ ASA to say that at this time, to safely say that you could tap them to replace the one there. It would be assume to be able to, but we will have to wait for those production models.
Im trying to talk YDNA into making an manifold that fits between the asa and the frame that is 1/8 npt tapped on 3 sides to accommodate all of us schmucks that want to run a looping hose or other air set up
Perfect candidate for a clean little hard line set up IMO
Here's the frame mounting:
The air input hole is at the bottom of the T-slot rail, which seals against the ASA's top rail that protrudes upward (pic below). If you're using the T-slot rail with a typical ASA, you'd be using set screws that tighten downward and push the ASA downward. That's kinda troublesome for frame-routed air supplies since the sealing ASA wants to be pulled "toward" the frame in order to seal its o-ring. Standard ASAs don't care, they just slide on and get locked down somehow, but the sealing ASAs are more picky about the design there.
Anyway here's the prototype ASA and knob: (many details are going to change, but the basic design will stay the same).
The crossed-out holes are just used during the manufacturing process, so they don't do anything IRL.
Did we answer will this fit on a am/mm length rail with a forgrip attached?
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Hmmm, interesting. Is the mounting required to have 4 lock down screws, or is that just an option?
Also, i know with the Inception EZ ASA, it was specifically designed to work with both pin and ball style reg bonnets. Have you experienced any problems with this? By looking at the design(following a more traditional, older style that had no problems), i suspect it shouldn't but assurance/confirmation from the designer is always a good thing.
I'd give the frame a shot, seems interesting
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If the hardline length is right and OD (1/4") is right then you can use just as they are.
If you cut the hardline smidge too short then you can just add extra o-ring to make it seal a little earlier.
Someone had problem with the OD of his hardline, but that can be solved with little thicker o-ring instead of the standard one.
Last edited by Laku; 04-20-2017 at 12:00 AM.
I've bee looking into options on the hardline. Not sure what will happen there though, since different people want different stuffs.
The 4-screw method isn't required but I find it to be easier for mounting since the screws are closer to the sides of the frame. Even if you use straigth allen keys (no ball-rounded ends) it doesn't take much effort to screw them in since they're easily accessible.
Yeah I know the problem you're describing on the pin valves. I've complained about that many times in the past. There isn't a standard for the exact length of a tank bonnet, so the pin valves are positioned all over the place. I've measured LOTS of tank bonnets trying to make parts that will work with everything.
Here's a picture that shows a dozen different tank bonnets including a Ninja (both v1 and v2). Going from a Crossfire to a Ninja to a Valken may be enough to cause problems with some ASAs, depending on how they were built. what a headache!
Usually what we do (historically) is make the ASA knob's pin-valve-opener work with the stubbiest of tanks, which functions for just about anything, including the Ninja ball valve. Fortunately they don't need to be depressed very far to reach great flow, no problem there.
I've heard of tanks that can be opened "too far", depending on how its pin valve is designed. I think the old System-X tanks were like that but I may be wrong.
But anyway, the important thing is that even if you need to modify the ASA knob, it's not a big deal since all you need do is carefully file off some length on the pin opener with a hand file. Worst case scenario is too much material is removed, but nummech can sell just the knob for replacement.
As an alternative to the hard line, and for a tighter cleaner look overall... Since you know the fixed distance between the frame port and the valve port, would it be possible to make a male/female setup that didn't require pain in the ass macro?
trike so:
All I need to know is when? How much? And where do I send my money
what macro line hose color will i choose?
just lmk when the pre order starts. This is going on the minimag
it would require pulling out the pin in the valve, but doing a banjo bolt like the classic RT to mount the valve, would be even cleaner.
that would be awesome, a totally hoseless mag.
"because every vengeful cop with a lesbian daughter, is having a bad day, and looking for someone to blame"
If I could make my classic RT completely hoseless sign me up now
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