AutoMag into a Wood Stock

[LK-13]

I'm flirting with the idea of putting a Mag into a wood stock.
i don't want to use a KP for this.
a KP is better left for becoming a KL or a Hurricane.
that and i prefer the ergonomics of a real full sized rifle stock.
the KP is shorter and just doesn't feel right.
i haven't even gotten the Mag as yet so suggestions all the way round would be a very good thing.
I'm thinking a 68 classic with a ULE body to take advantage of the threaded barrel.
i also plan to use co2 only with a Remote Line that i play with almost 100% of the time;
the remote has a Female stabilizer as it's bottle connection so the Mag will be dual reg'ed.

can you run a level 10 valve or X valve with co2 in a dual reg'ed system?

i seem to recall Glenn Palmer laying out a procedure for this but I'm uncertain if
I'm remembering correctly.

thanks for your time.

Wayne "LK-13" Shaw

[Spider-TW]

Level 10 with CO2 - yes
X-valve with CO2 - possible, but not worth the price difference (imo).

There is at least one M-14 mag that has appeared lately, one in the mag of the month thread. I tripped over it, so I'm not exactly sure where, but it was very nice.

If you ever play the 'bad guys' in a mil-sim scenario, I would take a look at the SKS stock. After looking at the M-14, the SKS looks like it would blend together very well, considering the big fat bolt carrier and cover. It's not full size battle rifle, but carbine size. Your trigger would be a lot better than the original, even with a classic on/off!

going_home has some used classic valves available and there's lots of space in the forearm for extra regs or electronics....hmmm

[LK-13]

well i have just read more info on the wood working methods involved with mounting a regular rifles action into a wood stock.
including inletting, floating a barrel, bedding (glass, pillar and block)
and all kinds of other stuff that i wont have to worry about because this is not a real steel firearm.
now I've got a headache from having read too much too fast in an effort to learn it all.

I did find out just exactly what floating a barrel means.
I guess I had a completely Canadian understanding of how a barrel is mounted into a stock.
I thought that the barrel was fastened to the full length of the stocks fore grip.
But it would seem that the barrel is actually 0.070" above the fore grip section of the stock.
Your pretty much just holding the barrel by the rifles action.
The barrel and fore grip\fore stock extend parallel to each other from around 2.5" in front of the action.

I never knew that.

lol!
BOY I'M CANADIAN! - EH!

[Spider-TW]

That will come in handy if you do the wood stock.

The float will have more to do with your construction tolerances than paintball accuracy. Unless you get some real cranky wood and leave the marker screwed together tight summer, winter, wet and dry, you probably wouldn't notice the difference. If you take the marker loose before the game and put it back, or have some decent wood, it won't make a noticeable difference at all.

Since you will probably fit it by hand, you may not want to mount the barrel very tight to the stock because uneven tension in mag frame screws can cause some bolt problems and barrel tension would add to that. If you need a close fit on the barrel, use bedding techniques to get it exact. Then if you need slack you can sand it back.

[djellum]

The reason for floating a barrel is the the extreme pressures in a real firearm actually make the barrel whip. I cant think of a better way to explain it, but if you take a hose or chord and yank up on it then down real quick and watch the hump move down it, thats pretty much the same type of thing. I believe floating the barrel has to do with this, but i dont know if its for accuracy to to keep strain off of the wood. I also think that if the wood swells at the end it could tweek the barrel.

You dont have to worry at all about that for a paintball gun, but you may want to leave extra space for barrels with different outer bore sizes and to keep pressure off of them. Also you may want to look into a pneumatic or elctro set up that way you can mount the trigger whereever you want without having to worry about matching up the sear. You also dont want the body way back by you and have to have a rediculously long barrel to make it past the wood. try to keep the body far enough forward for a good lenght barrel (8-10 inches acording to AGD, 12-14 according to all the backyard airsmiths)

Look on www.mcarterbrown.com Rainman just did a bullpup mag. You can get lots of ideas and help from him on doing yours. He made a custum sear block that bolts to the bottom of the mag, you may want to see what it would cost to pick one up. Then if you want to go nice get a pneumag setup, or just take apart an old spyder electro grip.

AGD says no CO2 with an xvalve so you may want to go with a classic or mini. Those valves are good to 10 bps and with normal rifle style trigger you wont be shooting that fast anyway, save the money and headache.

[djellum]

forgot one thing

Forgot to mention that the ergonomics of a real gun stock will force you to look over the top in order to be comfortable. Id go with a classic body as well, or a power feed. with the level 10 and the speed you will probably be shooting you shouldnt have to worry about vertical feed.

[flyingpootang]

Check out freebird's awesome M14 made out if a Mauri airsoft gun.

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=218924&page=1&pp=30

[LK-13]

OK so how many projects can i get started at the same time?
uh..........
well..........
OK here's one that seems to have jumped to the head of the line...

This project i have rattling around inside my head is to have a Wood Stocked Marker.
We all know that T2 is enjoying the Nasty Hurricane I commissioned but could not finish paying for,
So I still need a Wood Stocked Beauty of my very own!
I'm flirting with the idea of putting a Mag into a wood stock.
I don't want to use a KP for this.
A KP is better left for becoming a KL or a Hurricane or Nasty Hurricane.
That and I prefer the ergonomics of a real full sized rifle stock.
The KP stock is shorter and just doesn't feel right.
I haven't even gotten the Mag as yet but I'm thinking a 68 classic with a ULE body to take advantage of the threaded barrel.
(although there is a deal flying around in cyber space as we speak)
with Flup's help I've found a cool wood stock supplier,

So I'm thinking this stock:

but not 100% on color yet thinking either "Tiger Stripe Laminate"
or "Rosewood Laminate" here's a link to the colors, LMK what one you like lol.

http://www.rifle-stocks.com/laminated_woods.htm

I'm thinking a PPS barrel when the time comes,
hopefully Craig Palmer will be willing to make a barrel the length I'll need as it maybe quite long lol.

Additionally,
T2 seems to be willing to do the Inletting for me for a quite reasonable fee.

[Smoothice]

Forgot to mention that the ergonomics of a real gun stock will force you to look over the top in order to be comfortable. Id go with a classic body as well, or a power feed. with the level 10 and the speed you will probably be shooting you shouldnt have to worry about vertical feed.

If your only need for a ule body is for autococker barrels you could pick up a docs autococker adapter. It converts an autococker threaded barrel to a twist lock barrel. They are $40 or so. This way you could use your autococker barrels in a classic mag body

[Coralis]

man those are some beautiful stocks

[LK-13]

OK i need some information here and suddenly no one seems to know what I'm talking about.

if you take the grip frame off an AutoMag,
you can gas her up and shoot her by just touching the sear lever thingy.

well this is all I'll need to install in one of the stocks I'm looking at.

so what i want to know in, can i just buy a ULE body and a LvL 7 valve assembly
or what ever valve is currently available,
will i have everything necessary for a functioning marker except the barrel and air system?

i want the ULE body for the AC Threads, and I'm going to be using Co2 so the valve will need to be compatible.

I'm also assuming that a ULE Warp body will accept a QLOADER, correct?


what will i need to purchase to have an assembly like in this diagram:



i use a remote line 100% of the time so i should be able to just put a QD nipple directly into the vale, is that correct?

BTW,
My remote line has a Stabilizer in the system so this will give me a 2 reg. air supply so even the X valve should be able to handle the Co2.

[questionful]

Well, I haven't read the whole thread, but I think what you're looking for is a classic valve. Just put it on the rail with a ULE body, screw it to the stock with a washer I guess.
For the air, just screw whatever you want into the 1/8NPT female. Remote will be easy to put in there.

Forget about an X-valve, even with the reg and coil remote. It will give you problems, just get a classic valve.

[senghing27]

Dunno bout a wood stock...

But i did this a while back and it worked pretty well for me.



Just relized there were some questions...

Yes, you can take the gripgframe off...

Thats what i did to mine.

Apparently, in Mini-14 stocks, theres a plastic rail that pushes onto the actual unit of a mini-14.

So, i had a screw cut down and made it so that only the valve was attached to the rail. I then decided to remove the sear linkage arm i thin kits called?

The lower half of the sear that most people change the pull of their trigger.... that thingy.

Also, go cheap when doing projects, throwing in a Xvalve isnt going to help anything.

A classic with a lvl 7 will work wonderously well for your project and is cheap to work on.

If you mess up, no big deal, it wasnt a major loss

I also have a vid...

http://youtube.com/watch?v=NMS-bHpiSEQ

[djellum]

Rails

the sear mounts to the rail, so you would need a body, valve with bolt, rail and sear, and barrel. the rail, body, and grip frame all hook together with the same screws, so you would have to sink a screw starting halfway down the wood grip and have it line up the mag where you want it. Other option is drilling mounts into the rail so you can hook it into the stock, then have holes in the stock to use for mounting the rail to the body. you will probably never see the rail if you do this well so look at a cheap, scratched, and dinged one that you dont mind cutting and drilling. Personally i would mount the mag forward where the drilling is easier and convert the trigger mech, i think that would be easier.

Q-loader will work fine on a Warp mag.

RT sear and on/off is supposed to be a better combination for trigger pull, but i dont know if the pull is shorter or just easier. If its shorter look at getting those since a gun trigger has less play than a PB gun trigger.

AGD says get a Mini or classic valve for CO2, I would listen to them.

A tac body would give you AC threads and weaver rails.

[LK-13]

. Personally i would mount the mag forward where the drilling is easier and convert the trigger mech, i think that would be easier.
A tac body would give you AC threads and weaver rails.

so do you mean something like this?
docZox's M1AGD