E-Mag:

On/Off pin: .712" w/ brass top and double o-ring top.
.725" w/ aluminum top and single o-ring top.

Trigger Rod: 2.125"

Solenoid Plunger Rod: 3.005"

RT-Pro:

On/Off Pin: .765"

Trigger Rod: 1.985"

Retro Valve/X-Valve/Classic RT:

On/Off Pin: .750"

Automag Classic/Minimag:

On/Off Pin: .750"

Trigger Rod: 1.985"

Level 10:

Bolt stem: 2.010"

Thank you for posting this and finding the info. Do you know the micromag tolerances?

Thx, B

Tolerances for the micro are the same as the standard automag or minimag.

Not necessarily. I don't work for PTP, so I'm not sure what their tolerances are suppose to be, but I do know that their Micro-E-Mag on/off pin should be about .670-.675. Trigger rod lengths and stuff like that I just eyeball because MicroMags never seem to work right wih AGD tolerances.

black: are the retro and classic sear's different? if so, what's the difference?

Both are exactly the same.

My early experimentations with a Z-body mag are looking like the on off pin length is something around .725 or so. I will post up what that is when I get it dialed in but there may be differences from body to body. It shoots with a .712 but the trigger rod is too tight up against the trigger. It does not shoot at all with a .745 but has some pressure on the rod just will not trip the pin and fire. So I do not have a .725 and have to make one to be sure. I will post final results but this is just one example and I would have to duplicate that with another body to be sure its consistent. It could be that it is not. Depends on how consistent they were with the bodies.

Cphilip - I'm using a z-body on my setup and have no problems with a .750 pin. My current setup is:

Retro Valve
Level 10
Z-body
Intelli Frame
10" 2-piece barrel

I used to have a classic valve with CenterFlag HyperFrame. When I got the lvl10, I was having tolerance issues. I did get it to work with the shortest spring but it always went back to firing problems. Another problem I found with z-body and lvl10 was that the lvl10 bolt head was slightly larger than the lvl7 bolt. This caused the bolt to become logged in the washer inside the body. This was remedied by sanding the bolt till it fit inside the washer. I used to use a z-valve but was experiencing heavy bolt wear and went to the HF pin/bottom. I checked the length of the z-valve and it was around .735 or lower, can't really remember. Trigger rod length has not been modified but noticed that the rod end is pretty close to the trigger. I won't be able to check it till I get another digi caliper. My brother took it back for his job. As soon as I get another caliper, I will post my findings. One question I would like to ask is how do you check the gap between the trigger and the trigger rod.

yea i just got the x-valve w/ LX on my mag and its not shooting but when its gaseed up th trigger has some pressure on it, is it because maybe the trigger rod or on/off length is too short?

my on/off pin on my x-valve needs to be replaced i looked here and got the .750 pin for it.

but when i took the old pin out and put the new one in it wouldnt fire?

it fired once right as the tank went in and that was it

so i took the pin out and compared and the old pin was longer. it was the pin that came with the x-valve which i got brand new.

do i need the .765 then???

or what am i doing wrong?

If you guys are using regular Classic Mags, Minimags or old style RT's, use the .750 pin. The only different pins are the .765 (RT-Pro) and the .712 or .725 for the E-Mag depending on how many o-rings you have in the on/off top.

If the trigger has pressure, but won't fire, try turning up the velocity until it does shoot. Just pull the trigger while you tighten the adjuster on the back of the valve and it should start shooting.

no i already tryed that and it didnt work,I've got Rob working at it at his shopand its gonna be ready to pick up tomorrow.

ive tried that to no avail. but i swear to god the pin that came in my x-valve is larger then the .750

mine looks exactly like my old one.

Hi,
My solenoid plunger on my emag just came loose the other day, and when i was checking out the tolerances, I wasn't too sure on where the length was measured from. When I went from the bottom end of the plunger itself to the top of the little (rc airplane type connector), it seemed to be way off when i put it all back in the gun itself. Am i measuring it correctly. I put the plunger where it looks like it used to be, but I havent been able to gas it up yet. Thanks

Andrew Gore

Hey,
Any ideas anyone?

Andrew

The measurement should be taken from the top of the arm on the sear that the clevis attaches to down to the tip of the plunger. Measuring from these spots you should get 3.005" for the total length.

Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, I rarely check this thread or any of the classic threads.

Hey,
Thanks. I set it somewhere around there awhile ago (to where I thought it felt right, and i believe the caliper was reading 3.005, but it was awhile ago...) anywho, at practice it was outshooting my ricochet. Thanks


Andrew Gore

this doesn't really have to do with anything posted here, but i need a new bumper for my bolt, (I'm running a X-Valve with lvl 10) and need to know if the retro bumper on the Airgun Designs site will do the job. Thanks alot.

Scotty386@aol.com

Im new to this and how do i adjust this:

On/Off Pin: .750"

Trigger Rod: 1.985"

Level 10:

Bolt stem: 2.010"


on my minimag with lvl 10?

is the lvl 10 compatible with my boo-yah classic mag?? if so, are the tolerances different?

ok when ur setting up the trigger rod to the 1.985 inches where do u measure from.

nevermind

Why the heck would you sand down your LX bolt when you could have just filed out the washer with a rat tail? Much easier and no damage to the bolt.

Didn't have one.

do you guys know if the on/off pin is the same one for the ReTro Valve as the X-Valve?

Retro Valve/X-Valve/Classic RT:

On/Off Pin: .750"

Yes it is

Hills

are emags positive or negative polarity?

the top trigger ,magnet is positive , because the trigger always returns to a vert position

then the other just has to do with the sensor

uhhh...i ment the the battery charger..