POLL: Level 10 users, which sping and why?

[cledford]

Just thought I'd do a little survey on which spring level 10 users are using and why. I started thinking about this last night while building up my new ULE/ULT/X/Intelli/LX-Mag.

I'm currently running the longest spring in my Emag and it works just fine, I never have any stoppages or functioning issues. I still do have an occasional chop (yes chop) and am unsure as to why since I use fresh (3-5 bounce) paint. That got me thinking last night, I was considering the middle (cut) spring for my ULT/mechanical mag (the one mentioned above) to allow me to turn down the input pressure a bit and get a little more gas mileage. My issue is if I'm having say a chop every 1000 rounds or so with the softest/longest spring I'm wondering what going up a step to a harder setup will do for that average.

Anyhow, I thought that it would be useful to everyone to touch base on this again - so post your spring length, reasoning why, and number of breakages (if any) to help out. How long you've had LX might be helpful also.

This topic blurs the tech/talk line - but I appreciate it if let in the talk forum since it gets way more traffic the tech.

Thanks,

-Calvin

[NJPaint]

On my old mag (don't have it now) I used the longest spring. Once it was tuned it worked like a charm. Got the best results from it.

[AlabamaMan]

I run the shortest spring in both my E-mag, and RT-Pro. There is only one day ever that i had paint breaking issues. That was because i had a ton of blowback, and when i started hitting the trigger hard i would chop. That was with 0 bounce evil. I got rid of that issue, and now i never break paint. I would say i chop once every 6,000 balls. Although i can't remember the last time i actully chopped a ball. Barrel breaks well they just about never happen.

I've been running my LX this way since i got both guns. November for the RT-Pro, and march for the E-mag.

Personally i see no reason to use the middle or long spring. With the short spring i never break paint, and can shoot my halo + 5 140 round pods (that i squeeze 160 into) and still have gas left in my 70ci 4500psi tank.


*EDIT* i just want to add that last night i put my pewter ule on my E-mag, and switched the no rise to the RT-Pro. Personally i think the RT is now the sweetest looking gun i have ever seen.

[speeddemon]

Well, I used to run the long spring, but then I decided to switch to the shortest spring to save gas, and see if it could slightly lighten the trigger. I've probably used about 4 cases so far, and haven't had one chop. Had a couple of barrel breaks from bad paint, but thats it.

[magman007]

i run the shortest, why ?because it doesnt give me any problems at all!

[USAF-Flyboy with a Mag]

I haven't had a prob breaking paint with it on the shortest spring and the bolt works fine, so no reason to change it =)

[Strider]

Around here most people use middle spring for Emags, and short spring for retro mags.

[gibby]

I used to run the longest spring but started to have leaks out the back of the valve because the stock piston reg. on my RT valve wasn't designed to take the higher pressure settings needed for the LX. At the same time, I sent my Emag in for tuning to BlackVCG and he installed the short spring for me. I've noticed I've gotten more shots out of one fill and I haven't had a problem with it so I've stuck with it.

[bmexline]

middle spring on my emag. i had the shortest spring and i would chop 1 out of every 1800-2000. now i cant remember the last time i chopped a ball.

[hitech]

I'm using the longest spring because I can. ;) Actually, it starts cycling around 260 so it's far enough under the target velocity to be reliable. I've considered going to the middle spring so I could shoot the tank down lower. However, at 275 I can get over 800 rounds with my 68/3000 tank. That's enough for me. ;)

BTW, this is in an eMag. I once had terrible chopping/breakage (I was never SURE if it chopped or broke right at the "breach"). I changed paint and it stopped. I also changed barrels. I wish I would have saved some of the paint so I could be sure what the problem was. This is the ONLY time I have broken ANY paint once the level 10 was tuned (Classic mag and eMag).

[Skoad]

stock because its the only one that actually fires.

[LaW]

I use the middle spring. I do still get breech breaks here and there but its not that big of a deal. During shatnerball I was using severe paint and the first 1/2 of the case I had nothing but paint breaking in the breech, the lvl10 would kick in 2-3 times and then i'd get a ball broken in the breech and what a mess that was. I changed loader batteries and my problems disappeared, as well as I turned the ACE on which helped. The rest of the paint i used during the weekend I broke about 2-3 in the barrel and that was it. I blame the breech breaks on my breech because there are some sharp jagged edges in the breech where a ball would be pinched.

[aaron_mag]

I run the longest. I suppose for efficiency I could try the other springs but I either get all day air or use my scuba tank anyway. Works fine for rec ball.

I have only chopped a ball once and that was back in the powerfeed days playing when it was pouring rain. I think all the rain had softened the ball in the breech considerably.

[afrankart]

I use my longest spring, but it has been cut down to right inbetween the lengths of the short and middle spring. NO CHOPS:D

[Torbo]

i use the middle spring. I put it in when i was tuneing it, and it seems to work.

[SIGSays]

i used the stock lvl 7 spring.. it was the only one that would shoot back when i had my minmag... i still have to tune my new mag

[Peach]

300 fps I use middle, 250-280 fields I use short.

[BlackVCG]

I use the gold spring in all of my guns and all of the E-Mags I built for my team guys run the short spring. I never have paint issues in game situation. When I'm screwing around, which is all of the time, I can break/chop a few here and there.

The most important, yet overlooked part of Level 10 is the o-ring fit. The loosest fit is the ideal fit. You have to keep adjusting it until you can get it such that you can drop the bolt from the top of the powertube and it should come down and hit the bumper under the force of its own weight. Each o-ring is different and you can be too tight with say a 1.0 and switching to a 1.5 causes leaks. In that case, that o-ring should just be used as a reg. seat replacement and you should try another o-ring for the LX. I have a few tricks to get the bolt piston and o-ring to glide like butter and after doing these, I have never had any issues with Level 10.

[wobbles82]

I use the shortest spring. Why you ask? Because I broke my middle spring at NPPL NJ. :D Works great though, no chops, no chops with the middle though either. Although MY MAG DOESNT WORK RIGHT NOW, I wish somebody could help me...

[Mag Master 04]

softest and we all know the rt technology needs that extra TLC on that paint