Crazy RT Classic to Normal mag problems!

[The Deacon]

Ok, I bought a RT Pro valve off of ebay, an IT body and custom made my own bushing (fits well!). I used hte old RT Classic rail. Now, first off, I can't pull the trigger back all the way. It stops about a millimeter from the back of the gripframe. It also leaks hardcore down the barrel. I've tried all kinds of level 10 adjustments, like going down a carrier, which sometimes helps but never solves the leak, and sometimes makes the leak worse and the gun refuses to fire. I tried installing my old level 7, but it leaks down the barrel like no tomorrow. Any ideas on what to do?

[Potatoboy]

Ever think that your (fits well!) bushing just might be the problem?

[The Deacon]

Yeah, but this is assuming it does work. Let's pretend that it does work like magic. What else could be the problem, or what would the bushing be doing that it shouldn't?

[athomas]

An RT Pro valve won't fit on a classic RT rail. Do you mean, you are using an RT Pro rail maybe?

What do you refer to as an "IT" body?

What is your complete configuration? Explain each part of the gun from valve to grip frame, including bolt, body and rail.

[Koosh]

I was Deacon's first line of Tech Help... when I failed, I told him to come here... He sucks at typing though, so here is the problem.

He has a Classic RT. He wanted to upgrade to a ULE body, but not an Xvalve, so instead of paying $325 for the upgrade kit, he just went out and bought an RT Pro valve, and the IT body (The IT body is an aftermarket Sluggo, check the dealor forum). He also was going to get a different rail, but there is a scenario game we are going to on Saturday, and he wanted to try and bodge it all together using the Classic RT rail.

So he got the twist lock out, but the IT body on, and made a bushing for the rail. The bushing could be a problem, but so long as it holds the Feild Strip Screw in straight through the gripframe (Classic RT intelliframe), rail, and into the valve, it should work... right?

I think there was too long of an on/off pin in the RT Pro valve, since they weren't designed for RT classic rails... but would that make the gun act up like it has been?

It sounds like normal LX problems, but when you go DOWN a carrier, ther leak isn't supposed to get worse!

Either way, the point is kinda moot now... he tells me he just got a Benchmark rail today, so the RT rail won't be used after all...

[athomas]

The bushing could be a problem, but so long as it holds the Feild Strip Screw in straight through the gripframe (Classic RT intelliframe), rail, and into the valve, it should work... right?

If the valve shifts a little forward or back due to a bushing that doesn't quite fit, it could lead to leaks out the front and/or other firing quirks.

I think there was too long of an on/off pin in the RT Pro valve, since they weren't designed for RT classic rails... but would that make the gun act up like it has been?

An RT pro valve has a pin that is slightly longer than a RT or X-valve. It wouldn't cause the problems you are experiencing. If anything, it would cause the gun to not get any air to the front rather than cause a leak.

Either way, the point is kinda moot now... he tells me he just got a Benchmark rail today, so the RT rail won't be used after all...

Hopefully the new rail works.

[The Deacon]

Haha Koosh! You actually bought that lie about that rail!!!

I thought you knew me better. ;)

Anywho, after testing that first bushing, it really wasn't that great. Too much movement. I redid it, much better this time. At this point, I'm too low on HPA to tinker around with it, but I doubt it will work. Looks like Tippmann this weekend. :(

Thanks for all the advice guys.