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phantomhitman
10-31-2003, 12:50 AM
First off, please take into account that I have never owned a higher end gun, let alone a mag. I guess the term "dumb it down" goes into affect for me. Sorry

After about 4 years out of paintball I wanted to step back in (guys at work drug me back into it). I have always had lower end guns (spyders-tippmanns-etc) but always wanted a cocker or mag. I happened to run across a guy in need of money recently and purchased his minimag and quite a few accesories for a dirt-dirt-dirt :D cheap price.

I am wanting to update the gun a little, and to make it "easier" to play with. I am running a compressed air system, and a z-body (autococker barrels). I have heard that the lapco big bore barrel (.697) is the best barrel to get for my setup. What other barrels will work good withe z-body? The receiver (i hope that is the right name for it) is the stock one that came with the gun. I am looking into buying the level 10 system, which is very good in every single article I have read about it. I have a question about this: what is the difference in the level 10 upgrade (under $70) and the go x-valve system $325? And do I need the x-valve system or just the level 10 kit to stop chopping balls? The main reason I am asking is because I do not want to spend $70 if I need to spend $325 (or the $225 trade in). Also, is there a good hopper that anyone could recomend me? I will be upgrading over the next couple of months so please order the upgrades best to worst. Also, any other hints or obvious parts I will need please tell me.

I really do appreciate any of the info I can get, I will need it. I would much rather look dumb asking simple questions here and getting the right answer to them rather than trying to do it myself and look like an *** on the field. Thanks in advance for any help.

PyRo
10-31-2003, 01:06 AM
Welcome to AO :)
Allow me to introduce myself, I am one of the biggest post whores here, so you will be seeing alot of me :)

Firstly I would forget about the Z-body. Sure it may give you a couple extra feet but by the time the ball gets there it is going so slow from the backspin that it probably could hit a nail and not break. You also loose some accuracy due to a redicuouls paint-barrel match. If you want cocker threads look into the new ULE bodies by AGD, they are cocker threaded and made of aluminum so you can have it anodized anyway your little heart desires (if you have the money). As for the level 10 it will work in any mag. The level 10 is great for preventing chops. The x-valve is basically a retro valve made of aluminum with a level 10. So it has the reactive trigger (trigger comes foward with more force than it took to pull it back (can be ajusted through input pressure from an ajustable tank)), it is made of aluminum and is lighter, and its black so it looks cool :), and it comes with the level 10.
If all you have is a classic valve a 12v revolution should do you just fine, if you plan on getting a retro or x-valve and throwing lots of paint then you can look into other systems. Warp feeds are fun too :)

Dayspring
10-31-2003, 01:09 AM
I hear that the Level 10 will not work well w/ the Zbody b/c of where the "pin" puts spin on the ball. the level 10 will hit that pin and do it's thing.

Potatoboy
10-31-2003, 01:11 AM
As a technical side note:

The level 10 bolt will not fit in the zbody due to a difference in the OD of the new bolt.

Since the Xvalve comes stock with the level 10 bolt, this limits your upgrade path unless you switch to a new body.

PyRo
10-31-2003, 01:15 AM
In other words screw the Z-Body :)

phantomhitman
10-31-2003, 08:54 AM
thank you very much guys, i really appreciate the help. i will probably order the ule vertical feed body for it make sure this is the right body i need please (http://store.airgun.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=17&Product_ID=393&CATID=23) and take off the z-body. i am not too good at installing the regular mag barrels (that 1/4 turn thing doesnt work for a tard like me :confused: )
If this body is not recomended please give me a link to one that is. i also read that it is indded cocker threaded but is it also angle threaded? I think I read that in the article.
The hopper I got with the gun is older, a vl with a 9volt battery powering it. Will this do the job for now or do I need to get a halo or egg?
So what do you guys recomend, just buying the x-valve that comes with the level 10 ($325) or just buy the level 10 for now ($80)? Also, can I buy the level 10 kit now and later on buy the x-valve? I did not see that option to buy the x-valve by itself anywhere.
More than likely I will buy the ule main body (black)first, then the level 10 kit, then a barrel (any recomendations?), and finally a newer hopper. Does this sound in order or any suggestions?
Thanks once again, for helping this newbie to mags. Help me more if you can?!

:D

PyRo
10-31-2003, 09:55 AM
The feed tube ontop of the gun has angel threads so you can put a differant vert feed on it you want. The barrel is cocker threaded. This body is just fine for you if vert feed is what you want. The only thing you will need to do is get the twist lock out of your body rail.
The x-valve is of course nicer than the level 10 on a classic, but its up to you to decided if its $225 nicer. I think that 9v rev should be ok for now, if you have problems then get a new one. You cannot buy the x-valve wihout the level 10.

Eric Cartman
10-31-2003, 03:22 PM
X valve (comes with Level X) + ULE body = sweetness.:D For myself, I found that as soon as I got this setup, my 12 volt revy was no longer keeping up with my rate of fire so I wound up getting an egg. That or the Halo are probably your best bet if you've got the cash.

phantomhitman
10-31-2003, 04:21 PM
cartman, are you also using a minimag? Eventually I will have the exact setup that you have. The ule body that you have, is that the vertical one (see my above post to the link for it)? If not, what ule body do you have.

So the new x-valve setup ($225 with trade in or $325 without) contains the level 10 kit? If so I will just save up to get the complete system installed at once. Then a halo or egg coems next.

Any barrel recomendations with this setup? Thanks for everything guys, hopefully I will learn how everything works soon.

Eric Cartman
11-01-2003, 12:49 AM
Well it started out as an Automag Classic, but that's pretty much the same as a minimag aside from cosmetics. The only originl thing on it now is the rail (and that'll be gone too if there are any of the new AGD rails at Skyball). Now it's a vertical feed black ULE body (yup, like the ones in your link) with black intelliframe and X valve (yes it comes with the level ten) and the ULE Trigger Pull Kit (can't rave enough about that mod!). I found that the reactivity of the valve combined with the shorter ball stack of the no rise ULE body, made it so the Revy couldn't keep up. Since switching to an egg, I've had no problems.
As far as barrel recommendations, I hope to get a 14" DYE Ultralight shortly. I've heard good things about them although they're pricey. At the moment, I'm using a Freak Jr. which is alright, but not great.

Welcome to the wonderful world of Mags!

Cheers.