Some Car Audio Questions

[Ryknow]

I need someone who knows about this subject, I'm not to familiar with any of it. I've been looking at Sony Xplod recievers, amps, speakers and such. I'm giving my Jeep a complete overhaul sound wise. I need to know what 2 good 10-12 inch subs are, where I might be able to find a box for a jeep, and also what some good 6 1/2 inch midranges are. And a good reciever, I would like to stick to Sony, Kenwood, Pioneer for the face thing. Thanks guys!
~Tyler

[Miscue]

First off, avoid Sony like the plague.

What is your price range? There is good for $1500... and there is good for $15,000. :p

[Ryknow]

1,000 take of give.. 1200 max.

[gamarada717]

People trust sony because most everything else they make is quality stuff...they could start making sports equipment and people would buy it. I find it kinda funny.

[Miscue]

Well, what kind of music you listen to. What do you want this system to do for you?

[Ferox]

I would suggest going with Rockford Fosgate Subs, Sony 6 1/2's and a Pioneer deck, sony makes good midrange speakers but not the best, there decks are pretty decent but i suggest pioneer, and Rockford fosgates make some of the best subs and speakers... you can get all of it at best buy, The box to put em in.. well im not sure on that one..

~Ferox

[Miscue]

RF's entire line of products suffer from mediocrity, although they are 'ok' and not pricey. Can do better for about the same amount of money. No Sony... they make crap with the occassional jewel - which usually costs hundreds more than another company's jewel.

Pioneer Premieres are fine, I'd like to have one of their high end decks once I can afford to dump a few grand into my stuff. Clarion or Alpine would be good too.

Are you shooting for SQ or SPL? Or maybe going for looks?

You don't need two subs, and I find two or more to be undesirable unless you are competing in SPL competitions. You're better off getting an awesome single sub, a great enclosure, and a nice class-D amp for it. Before you spend $400 on 2 subs... spend $400 on one sub.

[Ryknow]

I want quality.. this doesnt need to be showy. One sub would be cool.

Miscue, do you know any place that makes a box to fit in the trunk kinda deal in a Wrangler (2001)?

[CaliWagon31]

For the deck i would get a Pioneer or an Alpine, for mid-ranges, some of the best i have seen and used are pioneers, and for the subs, Rockford Fosgates; kinda costly, but u will be very happy with the results

[Miscue]

Originally posted by Ryknow
I want quality.. this doesnt need to be showy. One sub would be cool.

Miscue, do you know any place that makes a box to fit in the trunk kinda deal in a Wrangler (2001)?

I looked at pics of that vehicle, it doesn't look like it needs special requirements for a sub. Check these out, and look at the dimensions. I believe they have the same box... slightly different model with different volume. You'll need to not only make sure it fits in your vehicle, but it is the correct volume for the particular sub you get... based on its specs.

These are nice:
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/OBCGZ101
http://www.audio-n-more.com/Subzone/subzone_z_series.shtml
http://www.subzoneusa.com/

If you don't get one of these models, do yourself a favor and make sure it has at least 3/4" inch MDF (medium-density fiber) and avoid particle board. Crappy boxes will get eaten up by your sub... and end up leaking and stuff if they didn't to begin with. There is a BIG difference between crappy boxes and good boxes.

If you like tight, high quality bass... go with a sealed box. If you want super deep lows and high SPL, something ported, vented... or what not.

[einhander619]

miscue is right on about the sub thing, one killer sub in a really good box will flatten two OK subs in an OK enclosure.

Here's my gear picks:

JVC KD-SH head unit - killer functionality, killer price on ebay, you should be able to pick it up for around $250.

Alpine CDA-7995 head unit - if you gotta have the alpine name(and lots of you do) you can't beat this for the price, $300!!! A steal! However, you'll need an external amp for your speakers, this one doesn't have one.

For speakers, you'll want to go for components in the front, and no one(except for focal) makes better components than MB quart. Look for them on ebay, you should be able to pick up their discus line for ~$130.

For amps, go big or go home. This is where you're going to spend more money than you want to, but trust me, your ears will thank you. For the sub amp, you want to put as much power as you can behind it, as long as it's not underpowering it. Look for a single 10 or 12 that can handle upwards of 800 watts RMS, then find an amp that can supply it. Like I said, don't skimp on the amps!

I don't have time to get into this further, but there's lots of other people on the forum that will fill you in! Or pm me and I'll help you pick stuff out that will sound great without breaking your wallet.

[Miscue]

Focal... yummy... :p

Heck yes... components are the only way to go. MB Quarts are good - their discus line is one I often mention as a good inexpensive pick... although MB-Q can be bright depending...

CDT Audio makes good stuff... as well as a few other lesser known brands.

This sub might do good for ya:
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/IDSIDQ12D4V2
http://www.mmxpress.com/id.html

Enclosures again:
http://www.mmxpress.com/enclosures/subzone_zseries.htm

Amp to go with it:
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/USAUSX600D

Possible for your fronts:
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/XTAA2002T

Possible decks:
http://www.mmxpress.com/clarion/cd_mp3_players.htm
I have the exact same thing as the 835 but w/o MP3 (I don't care about MP3). Very nice deck... great price for 24bit-DAC... cool motorized face. I personally think it's THE best deck for about $300... unless I've overlooked a gem from another brand. It replaced a POS Sony that cost like $200 more (I bought it before I knew better).
The 735 is pretty much the same thing w/1bit-DAC.

Multi-Amp wiring kit:
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/STISWK4D

Need 2 pairs of interconnects, whatever length you need:
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/STISBT17

Speaker wire... maybe some of this stuff:
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/STISSW12BLK2

Fronts - Excellent stuff for the price... I'd go with this over discus, personally:
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/CRYCSC60S Note that they need oversized 6.5/6.75" mounts or 7" outright.

or with the 4" that you can throw in the rear while you're at it:
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/CRYCSC643S

These have silk tweeters, they have titanium if you want brighter highs. I prefer silk... I think a lot of people do.

Note... this is just my subjective opinion for the price range you supplied... there's plenty of other stuff that works good. And, I dunno what all this stuff adds up to... I think it's around $1200.

If you can figure out how to do this yourself, great... but you better make sure you know what you're doing. Otherwise figure in what professional install will cost you.

Do your homework. Learn about all the different brands and stuff, so you know what you are buying. Learn how to do proper installs, and stuff. Be patient, take your time. If you plan this out for several weeks, that's good.

[Scooter/Cootie]

I'd recommend checking out www.crutchfield.com. They've got a ton of info and how-to's along with all the detailed info that you'll need on any component.

Also, you can PM Timmy63. He's a car audio guru and I'm sure he'd be more than happy to give you a few pointers.

[Ryknow]

thanks guys.. especially Miscue. I'll look into what you posted.. does anyone know if Best Buy does installation?

[Miscue]

They do installation, if you consider the physical connecting of your pieces together as "installation." :p

I personally don't have much trust in anyone other than myself... something is gonna get tooled... or will be done half-arsed - well, at least it can and does happen. Also... I can do free install for myself. :p

If you are comfortable doing it yourself, that is what I recommend you to do. Putting in a deck is easy once you figure your dash out. Mounting the amps is not bad. The PITA part is running your cables (Well, sealing your car is pretty bad... as well as making your own kickpods). Need a lead from your battery, place to put your ground wire... run your speaker wires and interconnects... hook up your power distribution stuff... etc.

If you're not comfortable, don't do it. Simple mistakes will blow your stuff up.

Otherwise... it sounds complicated, but it is more physical work and time intensive than it is difficult to figure out. I think the hardest part is figuring out how to tear your car apart... took me a few hours to figure out how to remove the dash panel from my new truck (Mostly cuz I was doing this at night and couldn't see nothin because I'm impatient).

If you're gonna pay someone to do it, you might get a guy who is really good doing your car at Best Buy or something. But I'd recommend you taking it to an actual shop where that's all they do.

Crutchfield has good information for DIY installs... but they usually charge a premium for their stuff.

[Ryknow]

hmmm.. I'm not to sure on how to install anything.. I'm not to good on audio, performace I can do though :). I'll think I'll drop it by Ken's (local installation/dealer). They dont charge a whole lot and do a good job, my friend gets boat electronics and his car stuff done there.

Thanks again Miscue.

[AutoMaggot]

as long as it's not overpowering it.

False.

Overpowering drivers is actually a wonderful thing when it comes to dampening and sound quality. If you can hammer a subwoofer with more power than it needs, you can turn down both gains and non-fade preouts. It's another way of ensuring product longevity and reliability.

I run a single 12" Phoenix Gold Tantrum, single 4 ohm coil, with a bridged 500.2. I keep the gains at 1/4 turn and the preout on my Eclipse deck rarely goes above 8 (on a 16 scale). The end result: Everything stays nice and cool, and the woofer still sounds loud and clear.

Underpowering subwoofers is what causes them to blow. The voice coils strain to represent certain frequencies, and they eventually just pop since they're not getting the proper amount of juice.

Apart from that comment, I completely agree with Miscue's suggestions.

[Miscue]

Originally posted by AutoMaggot

Apart from that comment, I completely agree with Miscue's suggestions.

I didn't say that, someone else did.

That's precisely right, underpowering is what kills stuff. You can overpower it all day long, and turn it up to the edge of distortion. It's the distortion that eats up speakers... which underpowering will create.

Looks like you got some good stuff! I have two 175x2 ESX Quantums (Zed Audio) that I have reserved for my fronts... Single Crystal CMP 12" that I don't have a class-D amp for yet. Don't quite have the cash to finish it up right now.

Originally I had one of those amps set aside for an Alumapro Alchemy which is very efficient... but I won the Crystal in a contest... which is a way better sub. But, I need a crap load of power for it... about a grand of watts. I guess I'll keep that amp as a spare or something... it's just too good to sell. :D

[AutoMaggot]

I almost went with Crystal, but I was on a budget during the summer since I needed to save for sophomore year in college (paint money!).

I'm actually a certified installer for Cicuit City... ironic, considering I don't own a damn thing from our store. :D I opted for Phoenix, Eclipse and Boston, but left a 4 channel out of the plans in order to fit my budget.

[Miscue]

Originally posted by AutoMaggot
I almost went with Crystal, but I was on a budget during the summer since I needed to save for sophomore year in college (paint money!).

I'm actually a certified installer for Cicuit City... ironic, considering I don't own a damn thing from our store. :D I opted for Phoenix, Eclipse and Boston, but left a 4 channel out of the plans in order to fit my budget.

Yup... the problem with car audio is... the more you know about it... the more expensive it gets. Even after you get your stuff... you've still settled on it cuz the super expensive equipment just costs way too damn much. I need like... $7500 to not settle I think. :D

[AutoMaggot]

I know.

I want Focal and McIntosh :-(







:D

[Miscue]

0.003% THD with totally flat response is sick huh. :p Those are exactly the fronts and amps I'd like to have... exactly. Well... Dynaudio or CDT Eurosports are on my list too. :p

I'd like to get one of these puppies:
<img src="http://www.caraudiomag.com/testreports/0112cae_pioneer03_zoom.jpg">
<img src="http://www.caraudiomag.com/testreports/0112cae_pioneer08_zoom.jpg">

165W3... ooooooh...

<img src="http://www.focal-america.com/products/largepics/165w3.jpg">

I need to win the lottery...

[cphilip]

All this for a 76 Pinto? :D

I used to also use 12Volt.com for a lot of info on wireing and stuff. Good site.

I was into Video though at that point was doing an install in the F350.

Oh and nothing wrong with Sony video stuff. Its realy nice Video components for mobile application. Pricey. There are a few better. But many worse.

I used a Blapunkt DVD to run it though. thats pretty good mid range stuff. Decent and cheap.

[Miscue]

Originally posted by cphilip
Oh and nothing wrong with Sony video stuff. Its realy nice Video components for mobile application. Pricey. There are a few better. But many worse.


Yup, it's just the sound reproduction stuff. Either they want way too much for something that has cheaper rivals from other companies... or it's just mediocre or crappy even... this includes amps, decks, and speakers.

I wish Sony would put in money for R&D to come up with great stuff... I like Sony. They just haven't delivered in car audio for some reason.

[cphilip]

Yea I think they spend all thier time in Video stuff for some reason. And then they think they can slap thier name on something and demand double dollar for it. Not working at all is it? heck even though their video is good stuff its maybe not worth the dollars they seem to think it is a lot of the time.