Hypermags??

[striker]

Hey, I'm looking to talk to anyone who has a Hypermag. I've got a XRTP (f/s if your interested) and I just might want to get a hyperframe for it instead of selling. Mainly, I'm wondering how fast they are. What firing modes, battery life?
Owners groups - anything? Thanks for the info!

One more thing: can they be easily walked?

[sneakyhacker420]

get the new 20bps board, its semi-auto only

then throw in a lighter microswitch and it'll RIP


stock board is capped at 13 with burst modes, semi auto, full auto, and turbo/hyper mode i think

[striker]

So what good is a 20 a sec. board if its capped at 13? Or does that change with the 20 a sec. board? Hows battery life, and can it be walked? Thanks for the info.

[Meph]

No, the old style board was capped at 13bps.

There is right now currently a new board out that is capped at 20bps.


Battery life is around 15,000 shots or so. Depending on the on/off and battery and such. And yes it can be walked.

[striker]

Ok. I've been looking, where do I find one? Anyone have one f/s they'd like to sell?

[Prezents]

First off I would check her on AO I see them often in the Misc. Paintball Items (http://www.automags.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=22) The other option would be to go to http://www.centerflagproducts.com and get one from centerflag

[Prezents]

I have 2 hyper mags and Friggin love them
both have the 20bps board and they rock.

[striker]

So the 'mag essentially becomes a great electro, minus the weight of the E-mag? Sounds good to me! I'm looking into trading my intelli for a hyper now. Thanks.

[Dayspring]

Keep in mind that it's not always a straight drop in upgrade.

Sometimes you need a new on/off pin from Centerflag (maker of the Hyperframe.)

If you have a ReTro/Xvalve that can handle it, I suggest the ULT. The big reason is that the big complaint of the Hyperframe is that it sometimes has problems pushing the on/off pin with a small solenoid. With the ULT, the weight of the pin is reduced and the 'noid has no problems.

[Digits]

..

I've got micro switches that are so friggen light.. The one in my mag right now is a longer/lighter one.. I'd say it's atleast less then an 8th of the one that the people on here call the "super light microswitch" (The one that there was that thread on).. But ya.. I got the switch from a friend which I believe was from some computer part.. And then took the case from the superlight switch, hacked it inhalf.. glued the light arsh microswitch onto it and just screwed one end into the frame.. And oh boy.. That baby is hella sweet..

But ya..

In my honest opinion.. The stock microswitch, and hell even the supposed "super-light" one, is crap.. But.. If you can get a nice micro-switch, you'll be able to sling ropes around on the field..

..

Moral of that long useless post..

Get a hyperframe.. I'm sure that if you rig up a nice micro-switch you'll love it..

BTW How much are those 20 bps boards?

[striker]

Wow... I've already got a ULT. Works for me! Woulden't it increase battery life, considering that it would take less energy to trip the On/Off.

Also, where can I find a "super-light" microswitch? Somebody here making them? Thanks for the input.

[Digits]

Originally posted by striker
Wow... I've already got a ULT. Works for me! Woulden't it increase battery life, considering that it would take less energy to trip the On/Off.

Also, where can I find a "super-light" microswitch? Somebody here making them? Thanks for the input.

search hypermag.. I think you should find a thread on them.. Although personally I wouldn't recomend that switch.. It didn't make much of a difference for me.. But.. I can't really remember what it was like before that.. What kind of trigger to you like? Longer/lighter or shorter/stiffer?

[Methylphenidate]

dude ive always heard from from people with hypermags that they round off their sear hella fast is there any truth to this.

[Digits]

I think the new board is supposed to fix this.. Don't quote me on that though..

Maybe thats why mines been acting up lately :eek: ..

[striker]

Personally, I'd just like a nice, short, walkable trigger. You can't really walk a ULT i-frame.

I would also like to know about the sear issue. Its always been my impression that the sear wears out faster simply because your shooting more paint. Shooting more, no matter what trigger frame, will wear the frame out faster. Hmmmm... maybe I should stop dry-firing all the time. ;)

[Methylphenidate]

no dude what ive heard is that it wears that sear down wicked insane fast.
like every year the guys got to get a new saer.
but if someone can proove me wrong be my guest

[Timmee]

The wear issues are (IIRC) due to the solenoid on time. AGD uses a value of around 20-30 ms, whereas the Boo-Yaah and Hyperframes have a much shorter time. I'm not sure if the new 20BPS board is supposed to correct it, though.

[sneakyhacker420]

Originally posted by Timmee
The wear issues are (IIRC) due to the solenoid on time. AGD uses a value of around 20-30 ms, whereas the Boo-Yaah and Hyperframes have a much shorter time. I'm not sure if the new 20BPS board is supposed to correct it, though. AGD boards are set at 25ms dwell, and hyperframes are set at 6ms dwell, but the ULT will help that by requiring less energy to trip the sear assembly, thus not putting as much strain on the solenoid with the already short dwell, and increasing battery life



ps: i've walked a ULT I-Frame doing 17bps :D

[GA Devil]

I bought my wife a hypermag with a classic valve. Its just the 13bps board and it still rocks. Real light trigger. We are going to upgrade her to the 20bps board here real soon. Battery life is fine.

[GhillieGuy]

I love my hypermag, i have owned it since the hyperframes first came out:) Sure you might have a few problems with it(like installing a LX into it) but its hella worth it. Iv'e got the 20 bps board and that rips, you can even shoot 20bps on F/A with the classic valve and it'll still shoot.:) I had an owners gruop awhile ago but it kinda died out.. thats a shame tho, search for it and maybee you can bring the thread back to life!:D ;)

[striker]

So how much is this new board? And does it affect the trigger in any way? Where can I read about it?

Oh yeah, and I can technically walk my ULT, but I'll be short stroking like mad. ;)

[Meph]

New boards are about $75.oo for a new board. If there's a trade in I don't know, but if there isn't expect the 75 number to come through.

As for affecting trigger.... I'll have to get one myself now. See how it affects the dwell if any at all (doubt it). Otherwise it'll just fire faster, shouldn't affect too much really.

[striker]

Sounds good, thanks for all the info!

[phantomhitman]

god news bad news :eek:
i spook with centerflag a few days back about buying a new board. a regular 13 bps board (full auto-burst-semi) is $98. a 20 bps semi is $120. rude awakening for me!!:eek:
i have to buy a new board for mine bc the old one is dead. I am going to wait until I get my x-valve and ult kit also so they can go ahead and tune the whole marker in for me (i know I am lazy). There are your prices.

[phantomhitman]

good news bad news :eek:
i spook with centerflag a few days back about buying a new board. a regular 13 bps board (full auto-burst-semi) is $98. a 20 bps semi is $120. rude awakening for me!!:eek:
i have to buy a new board for mine bc the old one is dead. I am going to wait until I get my x-valve and ult kit also so they can go ahead and tune the whole marker in for me (i know I am lazy). There are your prices.

[striker]

Wow, that's more than $75...

So, is there really much of a difference between the 13BPS board and the 20? Seems to me like I'll even have trouble reaching 13, let alone 20. Is it really that easy to shoot above 13 bps? wow... :eek:

[fancynapkin]

no, it isn't easy to reach 13. people blow the whole bps thing out of the water. that is some major bs when people think that they are shooting 20. get a watch and imagine 20 shots for every second. that is literally like one long tone. I had a link to this one trigger pulling game that measured your bps depending on how fast you can click your mouse and the highest I ever reached was 13, and most people think that I am pretty fast.

[hitech]

One of the biggest advantages to the new board is the ability to set the solenoid dwell. That allows you to avoid sear/bolt damage.

[striker]

Yeah, that makes sence, fancynapkin. The fasted I ever got sweet-spotting my RTP was 10, and that was more than fast enough.

But you've got me interested with the selenoid dwell. How would that help the sear chipping problem? And is it really that big of a problem? I read the Warpig article, and it sounded like all they needed was a touch longet on/off pin - which leads me to another question. I have the ULT right now, but I'm wondering how many shims I should use. I'm currently running 6 or 7, I can't recall. But would that effect things any? Thanks for the input.

[hitech]

The reason the sear/bolt wear faster on a hyperframe is because the sear is closed before the bolt returns. This causes the bolt to ride on the sear as it returns. Also, the bolt bounces when it hits the bumper. If the sear is closed it strikes the sear repeatedly as it bounces. All of this causes increased sear and bolt wear. BTW, I suggest (as does Centerflag) using an RT/eMag bumper instead of the blue classic bumper. Even on a classic valve with a hyperframe.

The chipped bolts are from having an on/off pin that is too short. The sear doesn't engage the bolt fully and the edge fails (chips). This is a big problem if the on/off is the wrong length. Also, getting the right length can be a problem. In my classic valve, the short pin was too short and the long pin was too long. The ULT will solve the on/off pin length problem. Adjust it as specified and it should work fine when the hyperframe is attached.

It appears that the "offerings" from Centerflag have changed. I don't know what they have changed. The 20bps fullauto board had adjustable dwell times. That is very important in my opinion. Maybe I'll call Centerflag and find out what has changed.

Here is my Hyperframe FAQ (http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=79328). It was information on "tuning" the hyperframe. BTW, the "trigger job" will make a HUGE difference.

[striker]

Wow. Lots of info, thanks. So basically, I shoulden't have to worry about the on/off pin length because of my ULT, and the X-valve should stop any "bolt stick" probs, right?

Also, how can I tell the bolt is chipping just by firing a few shots? Will it be obvious? Like a *kakk* *kakk* sound?

And finally, I really also don't need to worry about the selenoid dwell settings because the on/off pin is the correct lenghth

[phantomhitman]

hitech is def the man to speak to on hyperframes. thanks for your help and info with me also. i will let everyone know when I get my hyperframe sent in to them if the prices are different.

[hitech]

Originally posted by striker
Also, how can I tell the bolt is chipping just by firing a few shots? Will it be obvious? Like a *kakk* *kakk* sound?

And finally, I really also don't need to worry about the selenoid dwell settings because the on/off pin is the correct lenghth

I fire a few shots (with air) and then dissamble the marker and look for wear on the bolt and sear. The best way to insure the sear is engaging correctly is described in my FAQ. :D

I am still of the opinion that low dwell settings are a bad idea. I would not use a dwell setting(s) of under 20ms on a 'mag. With the ULT you MIGHT be able to get away with an ininitial short setting (say 6 or so) and a "return" dwell to make up the difference. The freq. could also be set low. All of this is just to conserve battery life. Personally, I think it is better to get the plainview 9.6 volt nimh battery and just charge it before every day of play. Then you can use higher settings and play worry free. :D That's what my brother does with my old hyperframe. :D

[Meph]

$120? Bloody hell, they better not have increased it to that. I called them less than 2 weeks ago to find out our cost on the thing and what their msrp was as well.

I'm going to have to call them again.

[phantomhitman]

meph, please keep me updated on the price that they quote you. i will be sending my hyperframe off to them as soon as it arrives to me. thanks

[striker]

Ok, thanks Hitech! First things first though, I need to get a hyperframe! :D

[GhillieGuy]

Like Hitech said, the best thing on the new board is the solenoid setting(instead of one it now has three).

[striker]

Ok, one more thing. I'm wondering how many shims you are using with your Hyperframe & ULT. And also what the dwell settings are (in case I decide to pick up the 20bps board). Also, you mentioned that the 20 bps board allows full auto, but I was under the impression that the 13bps board also has that option.

Basically, all I will need is a regular 13bps Hyperframe, slap it on there according to the instructions, and set up the correct amount of shims and I will be set. yes?

[Meph]

I have 2 shims on with my ULT and hyperframe.