my homemade rt trigger

[danheneise]

well i read on these forums that a longer on/off assembly (not pin) will make the pin seem a little shorter and give more reactivity, i put this theory to the test today and took a clicking pen's spring out, i clipped it down to make about 6 little rings (my ghetto ult shims) and put them first between the on/off top and on/off bottum, this did nothing except make for a much stiffer trigger pull, which i obviously didn't want, so i then sandwitched them to be between the top teflon o-ring and the on/off top, one "shim" didn't really do anything, two shims gave a little bit of rt feel, so i just went ahead and put a third one in, and it has actual significant rt kick, but if i pull the trigger and kind of stop in the middle of the stroke, where the sear just barely releases the bolt i get a bad leak from the on/off or the lawn sprinkler effect, but i really like the feel it gives me when i to pull the trigger right so i left three "shims" in there, any more shims and the on/off bottum pokes out of the valve too much to allow for assembly of the marker. NOTE this is all with a pretty much empty co2 tank and a L7 bolt, i did notice that it was really really hard to short stroke it, which is good for me, but obviously the trade off for almost no short stroking is the lawnsprinkler effect, which i feel if it's a bad enough lawn sprinkler effect it could lead to double feeding, but while trying to mess with that i ran out of air, so hopefully i can get some tanks filled this week to have some fun. another note is that due to the "shims" being pushed up against the top teflon o-ring, it may cause for some damage to the o-ring, since this is the first i've tried this mod i haven't noticed anything, but i'm sure that me using the co2 won't help much with keeping o-rings nice and undamaged. also just fyi this is for a classic L7 valve, although i'd be interested to see if it does to anything on an rt valve i'm too poor to afford an xvalve

[danheneise]

here's a visual of where i put the ghetto shims, shim placement (http://mysite.verizon.net/dan.heneise/valve.jpg) , from what i can see in the pic, it looks like a L10 shim will work too, and probably better, i do know that the front frame screw washer of the automag fits but haven't been able to test it nor will i be able too unless i get more, the main thing i'm trying to find is something fairly durrable (duh) with a large inner diameter, and an outter diameter that matches the on/off top, and to also be able to be very thin, the front frame washer has the perfect thickness. the reason i want a large inner diameter is for more space for the air to rush in

[sneakyhacker420]

i think you read about something concerning the ULT, this is something not recommended to do with a classic valve as far as i know

[danheneise]

what your talking about is with the ult and a classic valve combined, the ult made to lighten the trigger pull, but by doing so reduces the amount of force the on/off pin exerts on the sear, well with the classic valve and the ult there is not enough force exerted on the on/off pin to open the on/off back up, therefore not bringing the sear back up to latch on the bolt.

my mod does quite the opposite than the ult, what i have done is enlarged the on/off assembly by adding my homemade spring ring shims (need to find something better) which creates more of an rt feeling, the reason this happens i'm guessing is since i have made the air chamber in the on/off assembly larger, the air pressure on top of the pin is greater than in the on/off, so that it pushes down harder, or at least seems too.

the reason the ult isn't recommended with the classic valve, as i said earlier, is that since there wouldn't be enough umph to push down on the pin therefore slowing down the firing rate of the gun, and increasing chances of short stroke. I am extremly satisfied with my little mod, since it gives a little more umph to the pin, it pushes back with some force to my finger, and is actually very very hard to short stroke, yes that's right, i actually have to try to short stroke my mag ;)

now that i got my n2 filled up today, i was able to tweak it a tad bit more, instead of all 3 shims on top of the on/off top, i put one below the on/off top and two above it, this kept the on/off asse. length the same but decreased the annoying amount of leaking i was having the other day. i can't wait to get my L10, so i have some actuall shims to try rather than a cut spring, if has or wants to try this with thier on/off with some L10 shims i'd like to hear the results.

oh and also, the reactivity is enough to give me the reactive trigger thingy that z-man gets, the only problem is, sure it would be cool to show off to little kids to kinda scare them, but with this rapid fire, it doesen't alow for enough air to pass through the on/off to actually shoot a paintball, it is only enough to move the bolt, at the most a centimeter forward, this can be bad, as it would cause for some serious double feeding, this only happens though if i really try to get the trigger in the right spot, if i pull and release the trigger fully i get a very nice speed of shots