New Warpfeed electronics

[WickedAirSportz]

Well, I figured I would beat you guys to the punch and post a message first about the new electronics that we will likely be releasing.

I created these electronics because of short commings of the stock electronics. I love the warp, and I play well with my custom Intimidator that Bob Long made for me.

The new electronics accepts two 9v batteries and has a built-in 12v regulator. You can also use a single 9v battery if you really wanted to do so. The prime button is also the power on/off and programming button. No more dead batteries from leaving it on (auto shutoff after 30 minutes). No more jumpers! The motor speed, torque, spin duration, and sensor sensitivity are all computer controlled and programmable. The external input polarity can be either positive or negative, the computer will automatically adjust the software to accomodate either. Battery life is about double. Motor speed can be faster (even at the same voltage) than the stock hardware, and the torque can be adjusted so you don't burn up the motor during a stall condition. A MOSFET is used to turn on/off the motor, instead of the stock transistors which have the typical high RDs (dropping the voltage and increasing the on/off times, resulting in heavy battery consumption). There is a dual color status LED that is used to let the user know what is going on, and is also used for the programming aspect.

I am sure there will be many of you that argue every point, and I really don't care. :) The new hardware corrects all of the problems I have experienced with the warp, making it virtually perfect in my book.

For those of you that agree that the changes are a good thing, and you have a suggestion (or two) about any other feature you might want to see added, please let me know.

As usual, this board will have a lifetime warranty.

http://www.wickedairsportz.com/images/turbowarp.jpg

[Miscue]

Oooh! Cool! How much?

/me wants one.

Thanks Jim!

[Miscue]

BTW, you might want this on the main forum. I'll move it if you want.

[WickedAirSportz]

I figured I would put the info in this forum... afterall, its probably going to end up here anyways... artificial intelligence and all, ya know! :) LOL!

Move it anywhere you like!

[Miscue]

You can put double the AI of the Turbo Rev into this thing, w/o complaint. :p

[WickedAirSportz]

LOL!! Now THAT is funny!

The CPU being used on this one makes the TurboRev's CPU look like a toy. 6 times the ram, EEPROM for storage of the data... and yes, it does currently learn about the motor loading charactistics to increase the battery life as much as possible.

[WickedAirSportz]

Hey, I do have a question about Warp bodies. Are all bodies transparent, or were there solid bodies also made? I put the LED on the upper left corner of the board (see picture above), and it is really easy to see through a smoked body... but, if not all bodies are transparent I will need to figure out what to do for programming and status.

[Miscue]

To my knowledge, they are all translucent from AGD/PTP.

They have blasted them to get a grainy look and such (rare), but otherwise they just rit dye them for color.

Are you adding some kind of extra sensor?

[WickedAirSportz]

Great... thanks! BTW, there is no price or release date set. I am still experimenting with the one prototype. I am going to use it at the NPPL event in New Jersey.

Miscue, did you know that I play for the Am team Outkast out of Las Vegas? We practice all of the time... perhaps we can get together so you can play with the prototype setup.

[magnj]

wow, thats a good idea. What kind of speed increase are we talking.

ON a side note. I also frequent the PBN forums and I know you are working on a conversion harness for the Timmy board to the Bushy's. How is that going and what will the price look like?

[lamby]

That board is the shiznit!!! I would love to get one of those if the price is right. I have a fully modified warp now so it is not need, but it sounds REALLY sweet, and would make a nice upgrade

Way to go Wicked!

[Miscue]

That's news to me. Sounds like a plan... where do you practice at?

I'd like the chance to try your stuff out... I'm trying to figure out what gun to get first to add to my collection. Was debating between a cocker (for tinkering) or a WAS'd Timmy to start with.

[WickedAirSportz]

I went from about 16 bps (with two new 9v batteries) with the stock board to 21 bps with mine. This was using my Intimidator in full auto.

Miscue, we practice at Bart's field and Techtonics.

[Army]

If this works good Jim, I'll take one!

I've always said you are a whiz with electronic stuff.

[Miscue]

Bart's field is where I broke my leg. I used to play at Bill's field a long time ago before they became Tektonics.

Here's a suggestion... based off of RobAGD's mod that he's done for a long time. Instead of 9v snaps... how about connectors like in a revy? That might be a nice addition.

Maybe intellifeed the loader as well... and provide logic to make both revy and warp work together as best as possible?

[AGD]

GRRRRRRREAT!!! Thanks Jim!! Send me one so I can try it out!

AGD

[-=Squid=-]

Ok, I dont mean to down on anybody or anything, but before when WAS released the other stuff people insulted him, called him stupid so on and SO on, but now that he makes something for AGD products, he is praised. :confused: :rolleyes:

[sneakyhacker420]

Originally posted by Miscue
To my knowledge, they are all translucent from AGD/PTP.

They have blasted them to get a grainy look and such (rare), but otherwise they just rit dye them for color.


thoes bastards! i spent $35 extra on a green warp to find out that all they did was RIT dye a clear one :mad:

[Miscue]

Originally posted by -=Squid=-
Ok, I dont mean to down on anybody or anything, but before when WAS released the other stuff people insulted him, called him stupid so on and SO on, but now that he makes something for AGD products, he is praised. :confused: :rolleyes:

Here is the difference. I don't believe any of us has questioned his talents as a coder... he's very good. We've also never said his products were bad. They are very good. The issue was with... confusion as to how they actually worked.

But I don't want to get into this any further... we've already beaten these issues to death and now they are stale. This new board looks to correct a lot of the stock board's shortcomings. Looks like a great upgrade to me.

[WickedAirSportz]

Tom, there's no way to PM you!

Miscue, I personally can't stand the Revolution clips... but I can look into this. I never really looked too hard at the Warp body for mounting locations.

I think the reason why people don't like the snaps (speaking from experience with the TurboRev) is that the batteries have to be removed when not in use. With a power on/off button that causes absolutely no battery drain when off, the number of times you have to mess with battery snaps is minimized.

[sneakyhacker420]

jim, i haven't hear about the corkscrew for a while now... has the idea been scrapped until further notice?

[WickedAirSportz]

No, it hasn't been scrapped. We have received several more contracts for Equalizer boards for other markers. We are just so busy right now that I don't have the time necessary to devote for the completion of the project. It's better to complete what I can right now and make some time for the project later. It's a little frustrating at times having only 24 hours in a day. :)

[nippinout]

Regarding snaps...

On my VL-2000, which is still my primary loader, I removed the 9v snap connector and went to Radio Shack and picked up some cool ones.

They have a very durable hard plastic for the snap. Hasn't shown any wear over the years that I have been using them.

But like Miscue said, just throwing in batteries would be best instead of using clips.

[LoveMyMagMoreThanYou]

I'd want one if the price is right!

[WickedAirSportz]

What are you guys willing to pay? Notice that is WILLING, not WANTING. I know you WANT to pay nothing. :)

[Miscue]

Cost + 15% :p

[WickedAirSportz]

I would sell them for cost + 15% in a heart beat!

Cost is going to be extremely high because of the low production quantities... unless Tom wants to buy 500+ units, and then I can make it reasonable. So... basically, if the cost is high, everyone can blame Tom! LOL! :::ducking:::

:D

[Miscue]

I would love to see the stock warp board get replaced with this...

Err, what's extremely high?

[WickedAirSportz]

magnj,

Sorry I missed your question about the Equalizer adapter cable for the Bushmaster. Basically, everyone is just buying the Intimidator wiring harness and putting it in their Bushmaster (the harnesses are interchangable).

[nippinout]

Here's my crazy suggestion:

How about a pink PCB? :D :p :)

[spydervenom]

here's my opinion on snaps and why i dont like them.

whenever i try to get the batteries out of the snaps, not only is it alot of un-neccesary effort(hehe..i'm lazy) but i also get paranoid that i'm gonna pull the wires out of the snaps or rip the thing in half.

also, i dont know if they are a part of the design or not, but on my turbo rev as well as my non-y egg 2 they have the hold buttons or w/e they are called. i never have liked them too much. i doubt you remember it, but about a year ago i complained to you about mine because it didn't seem to work correctly.

keep up the great work. my timmy eq will hopefully be here monday :)

[WickedAirSportz]

Well, the 5 prototype circuit boards I got cost me about $250. I can get production circuit boards made relatively cheap in 1000+ unit quantities. This board is a little more costly than most because of the unique shape. I did make it a little smaller than the stock board, and eliminated a few extra cuts to reduce the price.

I would like to offer this product in the same price range as the TurboRev ($30-$40).

[Miscue]

That sounds to be a fair price that people would be willing to pay.

[LoveMyMagMoreThanYou]

Sounds good to me!

[WickedAirSportz]

If you use the high quality solid plastic clips, you don't have to worry about ripping wires and folding the battery clip in half, breaking it. The only reason we had to use the cheesy clips with the TurboRev was because of space constraints... the good clips are quite a bit taller and the battery and clips would not fit in the Revolution. The Warpfeed has ample room for good battery clips.

[JT2002]

hrm, it sounds great, but will it do anything for my warp now? its modded already with an on/off, and has bigcell mod. right now with my timmy and ur board, i can already control spin duraton. although this might change if i get an xmag. so, persuade me that even with all teh stuff i have i will still want this. and what are you going to do about the wiring? is each board going to have to be soldered by the user or what?? and also jim, havoc put those good quality clips in my warp and they shred teh old clips to pieces. :D

p.s. this new board looks like its going to do for teh warp what ur board did for aka

[WickedAirSportz]

PINK PCB? No thanks... BLUE has been a color I have always used, and I will stick with that.

The Equalizer can control the spin duration, but what about those that use the sensor? You currently have to use the jumpers to set the duration, and as the battery gets lower, the spin duration time changes.

With the stock board, there is no way to adjust the speed of the motor. The speed is dependant on whatever the battery level is, meaning that it changes as your battery voltage drops. There is no way to change the torque load either.

This will be a user solder-in accessory. There really is no way to make it plug-n-play.

The battery savings alone will pay for itself pretty quickly.

[LoveMyMagMoreThanYou]

I know. I keep forgetting to unplug mine. Sheesh. :rolleyes:

[S.S Bandit1]

Maybe intellifeed the loader as well... and provide logic to make both revy and warp work together as best as possible?
^^^^^^^^That would be AWESOME!!!!!!^^^^^^^

Heck, I'd pay $50 for this mod. Maybe more. I think Tom should buy these boards as well. Battery consumption has been the only thing that really made me dislike warps (9v batteries are like $4 a piece for good ones):mad:

[JT2002]

oh boy. soldering is not my specialty.:( :rolleyes:
jim heres a suggestion. add a little equalink plug in there :D :D that would be crazy

[Miscue]

Originally posted by S.S Bandit1

^^^^^^^^That would be AWESOME!!!!!!^^^^^^^

Heck, I'd pay $50 for this mod.

Hush you! :D

[WickedAirSportz]

Adding the Equalink means changing the CPU, adding an oscillator, and the support circuitry... raising the production cost by about $5.00. I also don't think there is enough room for this. I wanted to use the same CPU as the Equalizer (for cost savings), but it really doesn't fit well so I opted for a smaller package CPU that didn't need an external oscillator.

[JT2002]

ok cool. so too bad this installation wont be too user friendly lol. i tend to find it a pain in the *POOF* to solder very small objects with a soldering gun. the guns r a pain in the #$$. oh well, we will see.

[Miscue]

Dude... soldering is easy. If you have troubles... practice with an old circuit board or something.

[magnj]

I will be checking out your site now. I figure My Bushy is never gonna sell my bushy unless it has some crazy stuff in it, so why not have some fun.

[Prezents]

I would like to know the time frame that you are looking at have these out for the end user??? I WILL buy one!!!!!


Let me get this right, I will have to desoder my present motor and battery clip. I will have to soder in my motor on the new board and will there be 2 locations for battery clips?

[Mossman]

Looks great Jim. If I start using my warp this will be the first thing I buy when it's available :)

Just gotta get a warp friendly gun....I'm working on that :)

[jpdgas]

The price sounds great for the benefits, i know two more players in addition to myself who would lay down $40 for one of these, maybe someday they will be standard with the warp...great idea WAS!

[DiRTyBuNNy]

I've never been a fan of the Warp...and Jim may remember me from the WAS vs. Bea Youngs thread (it was all in good fun..haahhahahaha)...looks like WAS is taking over the world..and just like Freddie Mercury said "Dun Dun Dun...another one bites the dust"...hahahhahaha

[WickedAirSportz]

Let me get this right, I will have to desoder my present motor and battery clip. I will have to soder in my motor on the new board and will there be 2 locations for battery clips?

Actually, you will just need to solder the two motor wires. It will come with two battery clips already installed.

[DiRTyBuNNy]

and on a side note, Jim...when do you expect to have more Equalinks in stock? I missed the last mass order (unlike most the people on the net who play pb, I'm not 15 and I have to work during the day)

[Star_Base_CGI]

Heres mine. I added a dual cell in Parallel 9 VOlt. Have'nt had the guts to try it in dual cell 9 Volt mode. I put a piece of Heat shrink over one of the battery things and melted it a little. That way I can use one or 2 batteries.

I drilled holes in that Bracket thing. Than ran my wires through that and soldered them. If the batteries fall, they fall against the bracket and not the board.

Drilling the holes in the warp shell bracket also put the wires in a convienant place to load the battteries. The wires and all fit nicer.

I did not know they were RIT dyed but man they look sweet. Now we know how they are done faded.

[Outlaw5]

WAS, Sounds very impressive and I have two warps so after I get the first one from you and realize I can't live without the new board you will have a second sold. Additionally I have two friends that would probably pick this MOD up for their Warps. This sounds to good to be true.....pinch me......:D

[IcantBelieveit]

I am up for buying one myself...and have a couple of friends that would also probably buy one..or 2

[FutureMagOwner]

hmm this is making me consider keeping my warp feed.... too bad im a techno-moron at the moment (i dont even have a soldering iron)

[WickeDKlowN]

If I ever get a warp, it looks like I will definatley get one of these...

[SIGSays]

does it feed faster?

[BarryTolar]

Only getting 16 with a 12vt modded warp ?

Hmmm that's low in my book.

Anyway I'd pay 40 bucks or so just to try your board out - I'm running a BIG pack of Lit Ions right now cause I'm real tired of buying 9vts :)

Barry

[einhander619]

Wow, I'm impressed, Jim. Sounds like a cool product, and a huge step in the right direction for not only you but AGD as well. Like someone else said, I think this will really increase the warp's popularity!

[sniper1rfa]

OH OH OH!!!!


Jim, my god, your making a product without bogus and/or poorly explained claims! :eek:

Anyway, i am interested in this, if one thing happens. It MUST (yes, i am commanding you) be able to recieve a + intellifeed from a board running off a common battery. If you try this with a normal warp, it short curcuits, frying either the board or the battery, if you arent careful. And frying one of my batteries aint cheap. :)

i know a few other people had troubles with this as well.

[Strider]

Bloody Nice! I'll be watching the development of this closley... :)

[JT2002]

oh lordy, lets keep the language common english, not that crazy !#% brit stuff. :rolleyes: ;) :D :)

[S.S Bandit1]

It MUST (yes, i am commanding you) be able to recieve a + intellifeed from a board running off a common battery

Maybe then I could run the warp and revvy with my inteliframe at the same time like I always wanted:confused::D

[Mook564]

This mod has been what I have been waiting for. I am really interested in getting one. I will pay $30 for this in a heart beat. The only thing I don’t like is the clips for the batteries. Is there some way to make the connectors like the Revies? Or what about a 2 battery 9 volt carrier? If either of these is a possibility, I will definitely pay $40 for one.

[sneakyhacker420]

well said mike, count me in

[WickedAirSportz]

There won't be the ability to run the power from another source. That really doesn't makes sense, and doesn't make things faster... it just makes more wiring.

BTW, the sensitivity is pretty amazing... you can talk and it spins. :)

[beefstew]

Nice Job Jim,
I havent doubted that you make the nicest aftermarket boards for paintball, and most are pretty much "drop in" which makes it even better. If i had a warp this would be mine. Not to bring up inrelevent comments, you had said you had some how modded your halo to feed faster. I never got a clear explination over at pbn (i think you missed my question)
Also, thinking of any new projects about to come down the conveyor BELT
(hint hint new HALO board!)
Thanks
Phil

[WickedAirSportz]

I deliberately did not respond about the modded Halo.

I did make a replacement board for the original Halo (non-belt drive), but that is when Brass Eagle got me involved in the lawsuit and I had to back away from doing anything with/for Odysssey.

Considering that we will be coming out with our own hopper, it doesn't make sense to improve the competitor's product so we will not be releasing anything for the Halo.

[JT2002]

So the corkscrew is still AlIvE! ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! MUHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAH :rolleyes: :D

[magking1971]

Sounds like a winner.
Sign me up for 4 boards:D

[DiRTyBuNNy]

hey Jim, got an ETA as to when Equalinks will be back in stock again?

[ben_JD]

Originally posted by WickedAirSportz
What are you guys willing to pay? Notice that is WILLING, not WANTING. I know you WANT to pay nothing. :) Sounds like an improvement to an already-great product. I will buy one at the $30-40 price point when they come out.

[raehl]

8 high drain AA recharchable digital camera batteries.

No more buying batteries, and that was the only real problem I ever had with the warp, the stock 9-volt crapping out halfway through the game.

As an added bonus, I run my HALO off the same 8 batteries, which cuts down on the weight a little.

Actually, the one other problem I've had is I've resoldered the battery wires back onto the board a goot 7-8 times - too much stress on the battery wires and they come off the board. So if the board came with, say, a battery clip that had the clip at one end and addtached to the board via a jumper block or something that would come off instead of just having the wires rip off, that'd be good.

- Chris

[Strider]

Originally posted by JT2002
oh lordy, lets keep the language common english, not that crazy !#% brit stuff. :rolleyes: ;) :D :) Sorry, listening to Harry Potter Book 5 Audio CDs... :D


Oh, and I'd be willing to pay $30 for this mod...

[TheTramp]

After a LONG struggle which included 12V mods, different battery types, and replacement drive belt o-rings I finaly gave up and took my Warp off.

This board sounds like it'll fix several of the problems I had and I'd absolutly pay $30-$40 for it.

I love the Warp and when it was feeding reliably I felt like I couldn't be shot out. Unfortunaly it stopped feeding on my durring a tournament game once too often.

If this board lets me feel confident that paint will get into my gun I'll be a very happy paintballer!

[ignatz]

I have a question/suggestion for the Warp board. I for one run my Warp off of my EMag battery. I had to make a regulator for it to work properly. Since the new board has the 12V regulator built in, will there be any problem running the Warp from the EMag battery with the new board?

[WickedAirSportz]

I made the power input pretty versatile.

There are 4 contacts (see picture), labeled +|-|+|-.

The unit will come with two 9v battery clips, each using a pair of contacts (+|-). The center two contacts (-|+) are connected together (to make the two batteries in series). So, if you wanted to just put up to 35 volts to the outer two contacts (+| | |-), that would work fine.

[sniper1rfa]

Jim, not another power source. My packs can handle a rev, warp, and gun with no problem, so slapping one in the Warp and running everything from there is easy. The problem is when i run a gun board off the same battery, and try to intellifeed it using a positive signal. Instant short curcuit. :-/

C'Mon, there has to be some way to do it nice and cheap... :)

[ignatz]

WickedAirSportz - Just a follow-up so I'm sure I understand correctly... when I use just a 12V regulator to reduce the emag voltage from the battery and connect the input to the Warp (with the Intellifeed cable), the Warp runs constatnly. I had to follow RobAGD's advice and use a couple of capacitors to condition the line. Will I have this problem with your board?

[WickedAirSportz]

No, you will not have this problem. Only one person has commented on the resistor that I added accross the cap on the stock board (this limits the R/C circuit and prevents the constant running).

I designed this board to accept up to 35 volts. So you could run your eMag's battery pack directly to the board. When the TurboWarp is on, it uses about 10ma of current, which is unavoidable due to the current regulation loading. This is substantially less than the stock board's idle current consumption.

[ignatz]

Thanks for the quick responses. This board sounds really great.

Will there be any problem with using the Micro switch that many of us aleady have installed on our Warps?

What type of processor is on the TurboWarp board?

[WickedAirSportz]

You don't use a microswitch. The prime button is also the on/off and programming button.

The microprocessor is a PIC w/nanowatt technology.

[lamby]

Hey Jim,

two sugestions.

Install a connector on the battery inputs of the board and then supply the harnes with the opposite sex of the connector. this would allow us to the replace the harness quickly without soldering if the wires rip off right before a tourney persay. Also, you can supply two different types of 9v clips. Allied Electronics sells a nice fiber serial strap that is cheap. That is what I use (prevents even more possible bad joints or broken wires.

You could also have an intellifeed output of the board that you can use for your hopper, if your fets can handle the current. (the transistors AGD used have no problem with this) Maybe a micro-mini connector like the warp/emag interface. just an idea.

Love the mod though

[WickedAirSportz]

With the way that the circuit board mounts, there really isn't a lot of room for a connector.

[Star_Base_CGI]

Jim, Theres is a thread in the tech section labeled all abou the warp feed. I posted alot of stuff about the jumpers but you should post there because some people just cant comprehend the jumpers or they cant get the gun to work right or its used.

Also theres one person that wants to intelifeed his Impulse. I saw on your site that you will be offering an Impulse board with Intelifeed. So you could sell that there too.

[ignatz]

Would it be possible to have a reverse prime switch? Here in FL. paintballs tend to swell quite a bit. Sometimes when this happens and the warp has pressure on the output stack, the ball on deck is pushed partially into the breech of my Emag. Everytime I try to fire the Level X kicks in (which is cool). In order to get it working properly I have to remove the Warp feed tube and remove the ball in the breech. It'd be really nice to have a button that would spin the warp backward enough to relieve the pressure on the stack so I wouldn't have to fumble with removing the tube on the field.

[WickedAirSportz]

I thought about the reverse option, but it adds a lot more cost to the product, and takes up a lot of space on the PCB. Instead of a single MOSFET to drive the motor, you would need 4 of them, along with 4 diodes, and 3 more resistors.

I am probably going to have to change the PIC I am using... the one I selected appears to be the only one where problems were recently documented about frequency stability. We are not making a watch here, but 10% variation in the frequency is enough to cause problems even for simple timers needed to control the speed and such. Ugh.

[Willystyle21]

Hell 30 bucks for this mod is a great price to bad I spent about as much trying to get a 12vdc mod to work correctly in my warp. I would love some information about when this will hit the market or hey if you are feeling good about charity send me one. I'll test it into the ground for you.

[kosmo]

Charity???? Youre in the bloody Air Force you flippin pansy, you dont need any charity! And for the love of god, do some freakin PT! I could use a charitably donated warp board though...





BTW... J/K, we Army types would be lost without your CAS and woefully inaccurate weather reports. Well ok, just the CAS, youre weather reports suck too.:D

[zabbu]

assuming these are reasonably priced (30-50) i will be wanting 4 of them! (edited becuase i just read your WAS forums)
thanks
brandon

[Willystyle21]

Eh are we going to get into a bashing arguement? Yeah you are right alot (and I mean ALOT) of people specially E-5's and above need to do some form of a workout, but just because I happen to be in the Air Force does not mean I am a pansy. Ever heard of combat controller's? Yeah just kidding I know. Sides I dont do they weather reports, god they suck. I just fix the planes. And you HAVE to love the C-130's (cough cough) that you get deployed by all the time. What is your MOS anyhow kosmo?

[ultimatetrooper]

Will this make the warp feed faster than the PTP 12 volt warp kit? If so... Then i gotta get another warp :D

thanks,

trooper

[WickedAirSportz]

I have decided to scrap the current design. I was just trying to basically improve the stock board design, and I think that was a mistake from the start.

I will have a new prototype in a week.

The new unit will not have a voltage regulator, but you will be able to feed it up to 24 volts. There is a big MOSFET (60 amps of current capability in case you are going to use it for battlebot competition or something - LOL!).

The motor output is pulsed, which reduces the amount of heat generated by the motor, and greatly makes it more efficient. I designed the motor control circuitry around the same stuff I did for the R/C car industry (speed controller). This allows us to make the motor go faster than what a 12 volt regulation would be, and prevent the motor from getting damaged when doing so.

I am also looking at using the connector idea that someone had here. I think it would be a better way to go instead of having to solder anything to the board, you solder your wires. No possible damage to the board from those using a blow torch for soldering. :)

The request lines are open... I will be submitting the new PCB to the manufacturer tomorrow morning, so if guys/gals have any last minute suggestions, please let me know now!

Thanks!

[sniper1rfa]

yeah, you gotta figure out how to intellifeed with a board running a common power source. or, at the very least, prevent damage from those trying to do so. :)

why were you using a voltage reg in the first place? i figured your original proto was already PWM.

oh yeah, when we build battlebots, we use relays, not mosfets. :-P

[WickedAirSportz]

I used PWM with the voltage regulated version, and it worked, but I noticed that some people wanted an even faster motor speed which wasn't possible without removing the 12 volt cap.

NOBODY uses relays in battle bot competition. I have gotten to know most of the big battle bot builders, and we all use MOSFET based speed controllers. I have a lightweight battle bot that I will put to the test next season. :)

[edweird]

Nice...

I will take 2 once they come out'

However I concour with everyone on one thing

Death to the snaps!

Go with a drop in system Like my clear revy has.

[Willystyle21]

Damn, Wicked got back to it first. Yeah mosfets are used over relays do to the relays being "full on" or "full off" speed controllers use a system much like a rheostat or a pot. Hell the battle bots web site says to use speed controllers last time i looked at it. Still want one wicked whenever you get em out to the public.

[sniper1rfa]

ok fine, ill give you that for drive motors. relays (we use spikes, made by the people who make the IFI controllers) for solenoids and crap though. that was more what i was thinking about, because i forgot that you had adjustable speed as a feaure of the board. sorry, my bad.


however, NOBODY uses voltage regulators... :P


BTW, i have competed for three years in battlebots, three years ago in california, last year in florida (for battlebots IQ, a high school based curriculum my friends dad, mike bastoni, created alongside battlebots), and last year again in california. good times. :)

[PsychoBaller]

If this board works well.... I may be very interested.

Will it work if u intellifeed a wire from the Emag/Xmag/SFL Emag board, right to the new Warp Board ? so it will spin when u pull the trigger? (via the electric impulse)

~da baller

[WickedAirSportz]

Will it work if u intellifeed a wire from the Emag/Xmag/SFL Emag board, right to the new Warp Board ? so it will spin when u pull the trigger? (via the electric impulse)

Yes, the stock warp board can be setup this way as well. The 3/32 phone plug is being kept, along with the same push button (now used for power on/off, prime, and programming).

[IcantBelieveit]

just let us know how it goes buddy...and one question off topic...are there any plans for an E-mag board?

[WickedAirSportz]

We don't have anything planned for the E-Mag.

[lamby]

Jim,

There is only one other thing that I can think of for your new proto-type. Do you think there would be enough room for another 3/32 jack that could be used as an output? This would make intelifeeding the hoppers so much easier. A huge request would be a second control fet that could then be used to control the hoppers duration, speed, delay ect...

I like what you have already, and I am glad that you are looking at running a connector for dc input. I think that is the biggest problem of the stock boards. The wires are crappy and there is no stress relief for them. I used silicone wire for flexibility, and installed stress relief on my 12v rig and never had another problem. Just something to think about when you make the power harness.

Your board (even the first prototype) is WAY BETTER than the stock one! I LOVE adjustability, and I HATE jumpers.

[WickedAirSportz]

Unfortunately, there is not enough room to use a connector. The battery packs would hit the connector. 9 volt batteries (two) would fit if you really crammed everything in and shut the door. There's just not enough room. :( I guess I will just provide the motor outputs already on the board, making a wire-to-motor soldering job instead of wire-to-board solder job. I will also include a motor bypass capacitor. There should be a capacitor across the motor to eliminate the false triggers of the piezo sensor.

I am not sure why people want their hopper to spin on the trigger pull. The Warp makes sense, because you have to activate it, but as soon as the Warp moves, the hopper instantly starts. I spent a lot of time doing hopper testing, and I am still developing our hopper. I just don't see the need for an output. Every hopper is quite a bit different (Halo, Egg, Revy), and there is really no way to tell any of these to turn on without several extra parts. Again, it comes down to space... the board is packed (even more so than now than the previous prototype). There is not enough space to add the PROPER circuitry to trigger a hopper.

[RoadDawg]

I'm just gonna chime my two cents into this. The board is a great idea and I'd most likely go for one if it isn't up high in price. I like several others would like to see the snaps leave and never come back. If I knew how and what I was doing I would of modded it myself. The on/off idea is great due to the fact I constantly forget about the batteries in the warp. The speed of the board doesn't really bother me since I shot a mechanical mag and can't even come near to the cap now. I got really confused towards the end so if this has been answered then please forgive me. Will intellifeeding it still work with a mech mag? Thanx. Look forward to hearing more on the progress of this.

[WickedAirSportz]

What is your definition of "intellifeed"? Intellifeed means to power the unit via another device while activating it. I don't think Intellifeed even applies to this device.

You can use any power source (up to 24 volts) you would like to use. The board will come with two 9v battery clips. The reason people do not like the clips is because they forget about the batteries being left in, and as a result frequent battery changes are required. If you had to change the batteries every few months, the clips probably wouldn't bother you nearly as much. :)

I just submitted the artwork to the PCB manufacturer. I will have the new boards on Friday.

[kosmo]

So long as this board doesnt need to be retuned each time I try to use the thing wasting buttloads of paint and time in the progress, then Ill love it. I think there was something wrong with mine though. Wouldnt know, havent used it in like a year:rolleyes:

BTW Willystyle, Im an Intelligence Analyst in an Apache Longbow Squadron. Being attack helicopters we do a lot of stuff with the F-16's and A-10's just up the road at Osan Airbase. The S-2 section in my unit is pretty much the liason to the AF in my unit since our fat bastard fire control liason doesnt do his job. And you people need to stop wearing ear rings with BDU's. Its just plain silly.

[athomas]

Intellifeed is not an external power source. An external power source is just that, an external power source. Intellifeed refers to a switched output that can be used to activate an external device. In the case of the warp or hopper, an intellifeed allows the warp or hopper to start their motor as the gun first fires and the bolt opens. This reduces lag caused be the system reacting to the noise of firing the first ball or the lack of a ball in the feed tube.

I don't think the warp needs an intellifeed output for the hopper. The warp itself can buffer any lags that the hopper may cause. The warp would benefit from the intellifeed input though.

I for one can hardly wait for the new warp board to be completed. Keep us posted.

[JT2002]

so jim does that mean we can run the warp directly off an emag battery now?

[Kevmaster]

jim,

I'm very interested in the idea. and I agree with what you have to say about the snaps. IMHO, the crappy ones AGD puts on the stock warp feed do break and do cause trouble. I've broken two sets of them on my warps. However, each time, I installed a plastic one in its place and I have yet to break them. As long as you hold the wire and then pull on the battery, the plastic ones work just fine...its the crappy cheap ones that don't work well at all.

This looks good. IMHO, I'd like to see a seperate on-off toggle switch on the board somewhere, just because I know it is hard to get to the primer switch when I have a 68ci tank on my drop right beside the warp.

anyways, board looks GREAT. Im interested to see what you have for us next week...and count me in on two sales in that first batch..

[ignatz]

Since you're open to suggestions for the new board, how about a reverse prime switch? Wouldn't this be significantly easier with R/C speed controller technology? Just curious... either way, can't wait to see the finished product.

[WickedAirSportz]

The "Intellifeed" came from the Angel, and was a way to activate AND power your hopper from the Angel's battery.

Yes, you could use your Emag's battery to power the warp... I hope they have big batteries! :)

I am going to use the nicer plastic type snaps instead of the cheesy ones!

Reversing requires 3 times as many parts in the motor circuitry, and there is not enough room for that.

The on/off is also the prime/program button. Most people have easy access to the prime button (from what I have seen).

[JT2002]

jim also, i think it would also GREATLY help everybody who buys one of these if you include a small piece of paper with easy to understand instructions on all the programming and led and everything. will you be making this warp board with a mode setup so that when the board recieves an intellifeed signal from a gun like an emag, it will run for the amount of time the user sets it so?

[WickedAirSportz]

The 3/32 phone jack is an external input. This can either be an external piezeo sensor (like the ProTeam setup) or an electrical trigger (like the Equalizer can do, or from a solenoid or trigger switch).

The programming method is the SAME as all of the Equalizer boards... via button presses and LED blinks. In fact, its the same code. I am trying to standardize the industry (single handedly - LOL!) The programming is very simple, allowing you to set the speed, spin duration, and sensitivity level.

There will be complete instructions, just like with our other products.

[ES13Raven]

Jim,

How well will this perform using 2 9.4v 200mAh NiMH batteries?

[lamby]

RAven, where did you find 9.4v NiMh batteries? The largerst I could find were the ray-o-vacs at 8.4.. All I know is stay away from energizer (only 7.2vdc)

[WickedAirSportz]

I don't know how it will perform with rechargable batteries... I guessing extremely poor, just like with any other product.

Rechargable 9v batteries are horrible for their milliamp hour (mah) rating. A standard 9v battery has 550ma of current capability, and even the best 9.6v rechargable batteries are only 175mah. 200mah (never heard of this one before) is really not any better, especially considering that the Warp's motor will draw more than 2 amps of current on start up.

I don't use 9v rechargables in paintball... period. We learned this from the Revolution.

[Timmy63]

Your board sounds terrific, I of course have to ask my questions.

I am running power from my e-mag (18v reg. to 12v) into my warp and using the stock “intelifeed” to activate the warp. I then took the eye and board out of my revy and ran the wires from the revy motor back into the warp and soldered them to the warp motor. This way my warp and revy are both controlled by the warp board. It works excellent other than naturally cutting down on the shots per charge on my e-mag battery.

What are your opinions on my setup and do you think it will work ok with your board, or will running the revy motor right from the warp board confuse your board? I am very anxious to see what you have to say.

[WickedAirSportz]

I spent a great deal of time working on hopper technology, and inventing the TurboRev. I can tell you that although it seems like a good idea to turn on the Revolution at the same time as the Warp, it actually reduces the potential feed rate. The Revolution needs to stay running to make sure that the Warp is filled. If both are shutoff at the same time, the motor in the Revolution will block the balls from falling. Your best bet would be to power the hopper using the Emag's 18v power source, but leave the stock eye system and logic (or better unit, use a TurboRev board).

[thecavemankevin]

i use plain view 9.6v 170mha in my warp and it works far better than it does with energizers or duracell. Spins far faster than it use to.

However, i am definatly looking forward to this board. keep us updated regularly :)

[WickedAirSportz]

Yes, faster (9.6 x 2 = 19.2 volts vs the normal 18 volts). The problem is life. You don't want to have to charge your batteries between games!

[Da1spaz247]

So, I just want to be absolutely sure of one thing. Will the new board work with my intelliframe like the old one does? It is just a roller switch inside the grip.


Also, I used to be OBCESSED with RC cars!!! What contributions did you make to ESCs etc.

[WickedAirSportz]

If your Warp trigger plugs into the Warp's 3/32" phone plug, then yes, the TurboWarp will work with your existing setup.

I designed the battery conditioning electronics that took the industry by storm. I had two products rated #1 by R/C Car Action magazine. These were the Battery Wizard Jr. and the Smart Tray. Pro-Match Racing now owns these products. I also designed the battery blaster that Pro-Match Racing uses to get the insane numbers out of their cells!

I did some work with ESCs, and transponder systems, but I got out of the industry before these were finished.

I still race periodically (GT, T3, B3, and RS4-Pro). I also have a T-Maxx for the backyard. :)

[sniper1rfa]

Jim, you forgot to mention that alkaline batteries are rated down to .8V per cell, iirc. :)

the problem is not wholly rechargeable batteries, but instead is rechargeable 9Vs. The cell stack in those things makes any sort of high current draw impossible. I agree with you on this point, and tend to stay away from rechargeable 9Vs where possible. They definately cant run a warp.

However, larger cells, such as those used in my packs, act a little differently. For applications such as warp feeds and HALOs, where the voltage actually plays a large role (you dont want to bring your HALO down to .8V a cell, it will suck), mAh tends to even out. An AA NiMH will last almost as long as an alkaline AA, and be capable of much higher current. Remember, not many people use alkalines in RC... ;)

Just making sure you dont shed the wrong light on my products. :)

On a different note, did you ever fly r/c planes? I do with my grandfather, mostly pure sailplanes (2 gentle ladys, a segita and a couple others), with some motor-launch sailplanes and three powered electrics (my fav is the piper cub).

[hitech]

First a comment on batteries. I have used 8.4 volt rechargeable batteries (in parallel) in my warp without any problems. You just have to recharge them every time. Then again, I don't use them anymore... ;)

Second, even though I don't have any problems with the stock warp board this sounds like a good idea. Jim, as the voltage of the batteries drops are you going to maintain the spin rate? Interesting ideas.

[WickedAirSportz]

Yes, I fly planes. I fly mostly 1/2A pattern ships. Gotta have the 100+mph with no throttle control. :)

Yes, the motor speed is maintained constant regardless of the battery voltage (until the low battery warning comes on, indicating that the battery voltage is no longer capable of producing constant motor speeds).

I agree that Nimh and NiCd batteries are the way to go with the AA and C sizes. You just need to use an additional battery to make the difference in voltage.

[Lord_Whoopass]

Very Interested in this Board... Too long have I had to wire up my warp with an on/off and 12volt mod.. But you said that you put the On/off switch where the primer is? Is there still a primer on the gun?

Tyler

[WickedAirSportz]

The prime button is also now the on/off and program button.

[hAppy]

hmm i like that board

tom is gonna be jealous!

how much you sellin em for, im sure you ve already said how much, but this thread is huge, and im not gonna read through it...

[WickedAirSportz]

There has been no price set yet.

[ReTro Boy]

Ok, I'm too lazy to read all of this, so sorry if it has been covered...

WAS, I have an intellifed warp. Is there a way to make a jumper to go from the warp to the revvy...In other words, could the warp activation trigger the revvy to spin? Also, could the revvy be powered with the warp batteries...possibly through the same intellifeed cable?

[WickedAirSportz]

Please read the entire thread. I addressed this same question already.

[thecavemankevin]

Originally posted by WickedAirSportz
Yes, faster (9.6 x 2 = 19.2 volts vs the normal 18 volts). The problem is life. You don't want to have to charge your batteries between games!

i just wonder, i never had a problem with them running out either. I probably don't shoot as much as you either. but shooting even a case a day they are still ripping it up at the end of the day. I also only use one plain view at 9.6, not 2.

They have been working great for me for over a year and a half now....but hey your the expert and keep on using what works for you. Just not sure why plainviews rechargables aren't working for you?

[Hoplon]

Realistically, how many bps could i expect this to feed at? I never saw this question answered but i saw the part where you mentioned that the motors will spin faster so i just though i'd ask.

[WickedAirSportz]

I won't know exactly how fast it will be until the new PCBs arrive and one is tested.

[cgrieves]

Board sounds great, I'm sure most of the team will be interested!

As a side note I also use a single 8.4V NIMH in my warp, which is still piezo activated. One battery has lasted me a whole two day tournament. Ok I'm a front player but that's still over 4000 shots. I also run my Hyperframe on one, and have got over 12000 good shots.

I have noticed that they actually output around 9.6V when fully charged. I do slow charge them though (15 hours a pair) which seems to make them perform better.

[Outlaw5]

Mr. Drew, Any new info on the newest version of the turbo warp board?? Just wondering......I'm drooling for the finished product.....2 warps don't ya know......Thanks.:D

[WickedAirSportz]

I got the boards on Friday, but I just returned from a tournament in Los Angeles. I will build one and test it tomorrow, but I don't know if I will actually use it at the NPPL event in New Jersey. I don't have enough real time on it yet to make sure it works...and since I am playing with a team that is 1st in their division, I don't want to take a chance on my marker going down due to a bug in the code or hardware.

I will keep everyone posted, including new pictures since the hardware has changed quite a bit.

[Nobody077]

Tourny in LA, you must have been at the 5man at Hollywood.

Im very intrested in this board but have a question, what is the max amp rateing of the motor control side of the board? I currently run a gutted pre BE revy with a heavy RC car servo, directly off the stock warp board, so my loader gets the same voltage and dwell as the warp motor. Will your board allso be able to handle this type of current draw ?

[WickedAirSportz]

No, OSC (pump tournament). :)

The motor control side will be fine with your heavy duty R/C servo. The MOSFET I chose will handle 16 amps of current sustained, with a peak of 60 amps. Unless you plan on carrying a car battery with you, I don't think you are going to have a problem. :)

[JT2002]

pics?

[Nobody077]

:D 16 amps should be plenty, thanks for the quick reply. Its good to hear there are still pump tournys in the area, ive been thinking about looking for a stock class group to play with. Thanks, Steve

[rpm07]

Just seeing if you used 1 in NJ and if you did how did it work.

[JT2002]

as far as we are concerned, these boards dont even exist yet. was is the only person with maybey even one

[WickedAirSportz]

No, I didn't use a Warp at all in New Jersey. I did replace the faulty parts and tested a few things out. I will be practicing at SC Village this weekend, and I hope to test it all day there.

[rpm07]

Thanks Jim just wanted to see how its comming

[Nobody077]

Hay Wicked, what day will you be at SC, Sat or Sun ?
I may drop by so I can get a sneak peak at the board and shake your hand. Now if you were to out this way next weekend it looks like we have 15 or so AO'ers planed to play SC next Saterday.

[WickedAirSportz]

I will be there on Saturday practicing with my Am team Outkast (out of Las Vegas). I frequent SC Village, even though it is 4 hours away.

[WickedAirSportz]

Well, I got to play with the new Warpfeed electronics most of the day on Saturday. I averaged about 7 pods every 3 minutes, and I was still using the older Warpfeed that has a bad motor. Not too shaby... definitely better than the stock board was for me previously.

I programmed the speed at 60% of the dual 18v (about 10.8 volts) and I was able to shoot 14-16 bps. Quite acceptable!

It's nice not having to remove batteries or even remember to flip a switch to turn off the unit. An automatic timeout shuts it off if you forget.

Below are some pictures of the new circuit board.. a bit blurry for some reason, but you get the idea.

There is no release date for this product. I still have a few other projects to complete and get out of my hair in the next few weeks... but it looks like this will be a product that we do actually release.

http://www.wickedairsportz.com/images/warp1.jpg

http://www.wickedairsportz.com/images/warp2.jpg

http://www.wickedairsportz.com/images/warp3.jpg

[magking1971]

DANG IT JIM KNOCK IT OFF!! you just make me wan't one more:p
I stopped using my warp because I didnt like the sluggish response of it but now with your new gizmo I might make the change back!

[Strider]

Nice Jim.

You mentioned earlier you were looking at doing a screen of some sort. How does one adjust the settings currently?

[WickedAirSportz]

Screen? No, I didn't state that.

You program the spin duration, spin speed/torque, and sensitivity/polarity using the push button. This button also turns the unit on/off and primes it.

[Sparks]

How will the board be activated? I have a PTP warp with the external piezo sensor, which I no longer have. Is there an on-board sensor, or will I need to find a new one? Also, if no on-board sensor, does this have the contacts for the AGD internal sensor?

[WickedAirSportz]

The TurboWarp has the same input/output as the stock electronics. You can use the stock internal sensor or the pro-team external sensor. No sensor is included.

[Strider]

Originally posted by WickedAirSportz
Screen? No, I didn't state that.Woops, sorry, I misread something earlier...
You program the spin duration, spin speed/torque, and sensitivity/polarity using the push button. This button also turns the unit on/off and primes it.I guess my question was how do you tell what setting your on and what your setting it too?

[WickedAirSportz]

You know what setting you are on by programming the unit when you first get it. You can also check the settings.

There are a series of push button events that determine the various programming modes. It sounds a lot more complicated than it really is. I use the same system for the Equalizer boards, and people find that very easy to use.

[sniper1rfa]

sounds the same as the morlock board by KM2.

pretty simple, when you get used to it.

[Scorch]

I read the post regarding intellifeed control for the loader... I agree with WAS that its not needed (anymore).

Here's my old angel with intelli-controlled rev (true 18v powered not from the angels battery) and intelli-controlled warpfeed (12v mod)
http://www.gravitypaintball.org/images/playerpic/scorch-warp5l.jpg
http://www.gravitypaintball.org/images/playerpic/scorch-warp5r.jpg
This is how (http://www.gravitypaintball.org/html/interlink.htm) I did it
Its a lot of wiring! I'll be shooting a new electro shortly. I hope the turbowarp will be out soon so I don't have to breakout my solder gun :(

Scorch

[LoveMyMagMoreThanYou]

Any more news on the board?

[Outlaw5]

I was wondering if there was anymore information on this new board myself. I'm sure you've been busy but any information on this Mr. Drew would be appreciated. I know of at least three boards you could sell to me and once I get mine in there will be a few more in my neck of the woods in Fayetteville,NC. Thanks for your time and hope to here from you soon. :D V/R

[ScatterPlot]

Goin back to what Scorch said a sec ago, I wanted to brag on meself for a sec. I made a little gizmo one time that dually intellifed the revvy and warp ath the same time from an Intelli, but cause it used 2 9V's for the relay (cause thats the smallest I could get right then) and also cause it was inherently kinda slow from the relay (not to me cause I cant shoot really fast) and also cause Im lazy and used electrical tape to mount it it didnt really work too well. I might try a mucho smaller version later, but not quite yet. This new warp thingy sounds awesome though!

[TheTramp]

I'm interested to know if the new Warp board will be compatable with the E-Mag to Warp battery mod being sold at AGDE.

Also, if the new Warp board does a great job conserving batteries would the E-Mag to Warp mod really even be useful/nessasary?

[jayloo]

Are there any updates on this product?

[WickedAirSportz]

I have been a bit busy with the Impulse Equalizer and other stuff. I have been competing with the Warp'd Intimidator, using the TurboWarp and I am confident that is a 100% solid product.

Now its just a matter of fitting it into the production schedule.

I will have this available at the World Cup for anyone to tinker with.

[thecavemankevin]

Originally posted by WickedAirSportz

I will have this available at the World Cup for anyone to tinker with.

so will you just have a proto type to mess with, or actual production boards there?

[WickedAirSportz]

Short run production board. The final product, just not a blue PCB. They won't be for sale at the World Cup.

[Kaiser Bob]

Originally posted by WickedAirSportz
I have been a bit busy with the Impulse Equalizer and other stuff. I have been competing with the Warp'd Intimidator, using the TurboWarp and I am confident that is a 100% solid product.

Now its just a matter of fitting it into the production schedule.

I will have this available at the World Cup for anyone to tinker with.

While we are on the topic of experimental stuff, hows that matrix equalizer coming along?

[WickedAirSportz]

It... and the 20-some other projects are all still moving along.

[LoveMyMagMoreThanYou]

Thanks, Jim.

[Hoplon]

Can we expect the warp board to be released soon after the W. cup?

[TheTramp]

At least the Warp board wont need an eye cover. ;)

[ScatterPlot]

Sorry to dig this thing back up again but I was wondering when we were gonna be able to get these?

[WickedAirSportz]

Still unknown. Quite a few people got to check out the electronics at the World Cup, and feedback was very positive. We just still have many projects that are nearing completion that are taking priority.

[LoveMyMagMoreThanYou]

I can't wait to get my hands on this board!!

[magking1971]

Ya Jim come on I'm going to wet myself waiting for this!

[xadamx]

i had forgotten about this. suprise suprise :rolleyes:

[TheClapp15]

jim, as soon as these boards are ready I would like to order one...please hurry.

[Resist148]

Well I hope this gets done within a month or two because I just orderd a warp because i saw you were making this =) no need for on/off or volt mod yay.

[sneakyhacker420]

i wanna know how much longer also... i hate my warp now because of the stock board and the sensor problems and POS dwell settings... must... have... TurboWarp... NOW!!!!