Powder Coating, I'm serious this time [Archive]

View Full Version : Powder Coating, I'm serious this time

Albinonewt

12-25-2003, 06:57 PM

You all know by now that I through up a thread every once in a while about powder coating my mag white. I talk about it at events and then I forget the advice I get. Well, I'm finally ready to do it, as I don't really need my mag again until the Spring. So, hit me with your brilliance so I get this thing taken care of.

1stdeadeye

12-25-2003, 07:00 PM

PM Red Ryder. I think he still does it.

cphilip

12-25-2003, 07:10 PM

I believe he does and he always did all of my stuff. He is slow responding and all. But if you can reach him and are not in a hurry he is the only one I have used and can recommend.

GhillieGuy

12-25-2003, 07:15 PM

Rouge i thought was going to be getting into the powdercoating stuff..

Creative Mayhem

12-25-2003, 11:44 PM

http://www.kpcustoms.com/

Real good and pretty quick. Newt I'm not sure if you remember, but the mag tater was using in SC was powdercoated white, and it was done by Ken @ KPCustoms

Hope it helps

Bigzamboni

12-26-2003, 12:04 AM

A while back I had been thinking of getting my RT powdercoated white.. Never happened though. I saw a minimag that was spraypainted white once. Looked pretty nice.

Potatoboy

12-26-2003, 12:08 AM

This is Funkmunky56's emag, coated by KPCustoms.

Ken does damn good work.

Now:
http://www.potatoboy.net/users/funkmunky/DSCN0209.JPG

Then:
http://www.potatoboy.net/users/funkmunky/funke-trigger.jpg

FreshmanBob

12-26-2003, 12:49 AM

Powdercoating is reeeally easy to chip off and scratch, I don't even think it should be used on paintballguns, you take a dive and scrrrratch, there goes a hunk of your finish.

ChucktheMAGician

12-26-2003, 12:57 AM

1stdeadeye

12-26-2003, 12:45 PM

Darn Tato what was that: The StormTrooper mag?;)

shartley

12-26-2003, 01:11 PM

Originally posted by FreshmanBob
Powdercoating is reeeally easy to chip off and scratch, I don't even think it should be used on paintballguns, you take a dive and scrrrratch, there goes a hunk of your finish.
I guess that could happen if it is done too thick or done VERY poorly, but overall Powder Coating is so successful in many industries because it offers a VERY durable, very smooth finish. If Powder Coating was indeed as easy to chip as you make it out to be, it would not be used on everything from custom wheels/rims, motorcycle frames, bike frames, countless metal parts that need a durable finish, and more.

I say if people are that rough with their equipment, ANY finish they decide to put on it will get messed up.

12-26-2003, 01:25 PM

which is more durable powder or anno?

shartley

12-26-2003, 03:13 PM

Originally posted by gtrsi
which is more durable powder or anno?
I am not sure. I think both would be more than acceptable when done right. A bad job is a bad job no matter how it is done.

Another thing folks need to realize is that NOTHING is perfect and without strengths and weaknesses, pluses and minuses. You have to match them to what will work best for YOU and what YOU want. Look at cars…. How many of those are Annoed, or Powder Coated? ;) But would any of us say the average car’s paint job is “bad”? No.

People have to look to what is needed for care of each type of finish, what abuse it will take, etc. And both Anno and Powder Coating will work well as long as you don’t abuse your equipment.

AcemanPB

12-26-2003, 03:15 PM

Originally posted by gtrsi
which is more durable powder or anno?

If I were to guess I'd say anno because they dye is asorbed into the metal. The only real way to get rid of anno would be to strip the outer layer of metal of the object while powder coating can chip or flake off.

shartley

12-26-2003, 03:38 PM

Originally posted by AcemanPB

If I were to guess I'd say anno because they dye is asorbed into the metal. The only real way to get rid of anno would be to strip the outer layer of metal of the object while powder coating can chip or flake off.
I believe Anno is a building of a layer, not simply absorbing dye into existing metal. That is why there are tolerance issues claimed by manufacturers concerning re-annoing parts.

So in essence, both Anodizing and Powder Coating are ADDING material to the part.

As for all this talk about Powder Coating chipping off… I am sure it can. But Anodizing can also be removed by wear and abuse. The process of Powder Coating actually imbeds the paint into the pores of the metal thus if done correctly, it locks the paint into the metal… it does not simply sit on top of the metal like it seems too many think it does. It is not like more standard forms of painting.

AcemanPB

12-26-2003, 03:43 PM

Originally posted by shartley

I believe Anno is a building of a layer, not simply absorbing dye into existing metal. That is why there are tolerance issues claimed by manufacturers concerning re-annoing parts.

So in essence, both Anodizing and Powder Coating are ADDING material to the part.

As for all this talk about Powder Coating chipping off… I am sure it can. But Anodizing can also be removed by wear and abuse. The process of Powder Coating actually imbeds the paint into the pores of the metal thus if done correctly, it locks the paint into the metal… it does not simply sit on top of the metal like it seems too many think it does. It is not like more standard forms of painting.

Oh I thought tolerance issues were created from stripping off old anno since it actually eats away at the metal. I'm no pro when it comes to anno, these are all just assumptions I've made on the little knowledge i've picked up about the process.

shartley

12-26-2003, 03:50 PM

Originally posted by AcemanPB
Oh I thought tolerance issues were created from stripping off old anno since it actually eats away at the metal. I'm no pro when it comes to anno, these are all just assumptions I've made on the little knowledge i've picked up about the process.
Hey, no problem. That is why folks ask questions. I too am not an expert in either (yet I should be setting up both Anodizing and Powder Coating stations at some point… Powder Coating should be this year if all goes well.) I am just going by what I have read online.

I believe the stripping of material for anodizing is taking away the layer that was built up in the actual anodizing process. You are not actually stripping away the base metal, but the “scab” or “new skin” that was formed on it. The tolerance issues comes from not getting the same tolerances when re-annoing as were there the first time… again, from what I have read here on AO… and posted by the AGD folks.

I am sure the folks at AGD can clarify this if need be.

shartley

12-26-2003, 04:07 PM

Here is a short blerb about Anodizing that is pretty useful.. it is found on http://www.anodizingmetalast.com/about.html

Anodizing will protect the aluminum parts by making the surface much harder than natural aluminum. Aluminum oxide is grown out of the surface during anodizing and is extreemly hard. The porous nature of the anodized layer allows the product to be dyed any color that is required. The method I describe is type II anodizing (room temp) and gives an anodized layer of .0002" to .0009". Type III (hard coat) anodizing is done at a much lower temperature and higher current level. It gives an anodized layer up to .002 but is normaly at .0005" (Mil spec) in most anodizing shops. Type III anodized surfaces can typically only be dyed black or dark green.

This shows that it is actually not the base aluminum being colored, but the new growth that is. It also shows how tolerances can be affected.

Powder Coating also can mess up tolerances IF they don’t tape off the affected areas.

I just thought this might help….

(ADDED: Folks will note that one of this site's useful links goes back to the Warpig article on home anodizing. ;) )

12-26-2003, 04:16 PM

Originally posted by shartley

I am not sure. I think both would be more than acceptable when done right. A bad job is a bad job no matter how it is done.

Another thing folks need to realize is that NOTHING is perfect and without strengths and weaknesses, pluses and minuses. You have to match them to what will work best for YOU and what YOU want. Look at cars…. How many of those are Annoed, or Powder Coated? ;) But would any of us say the average car’s paint job is “bad”? No.

People have to look to what is needed for care of each type of finish, what abuse it will take, etc. And both Anno and Powder Coating will work well as long as you don’t abuse your equipment.

Shartly WTF are you talking about? If you dont know you dont have to post?

shartley

12-26-2003, 04:36 PM

Originally posted by gtrsi
Shartly WTF are you talking about? If you dont know you dont have to post?
I think that is more than a bit uncalled for. You asked a question, I answered the best I could and then offered more information. If you don’t like my answer don’t read it, and don’t ASK on an open forum.

I was trying to help, and you pull that crap… nice job.

12-26-2003, 05:24 PM

Originally posted by shartley
I was trying to help, and you pull that crap… nice job.

Help? SHart your just making stuff up.. Reread your post...

shartley

12-26-2003, 05:28 PM

Originally posted by gtrsi
Help? SHart your just making stuff up.. Reread your post...
Yeah.... whatever you say. Sorry I couldn't help and committed some crime in the process....
:rolleyes:

Have a nice day.

LaW

12-26-2003, 09:12 PM

I had ken do some parts in the past for me .. kpcustoms.net is highly recommended by me :)

Chojin Man

12-27-2003, 01:55 AM

a white mag would be awesome newt. You should do it asap!!

ERut

12-27-2003, 02:57 AM

Originally posted by gtrsi

Shartly WTF are you talking about? If you dont know you dont have to post?

Wow Santa didn't bring someone what they asked for...

Where did Funkymunkys battery go on that emag?

funkmunky56

12-27-2003, 10:53 AM

Ken at K&P Customs is an artist and perfectionist. It doesn't get much better. He's really easy to work with, and pays attention to EVERY detail you specify. I've never had a tolerance problem with ANY of the three mags I've had him strip, polish, and coat... He knows where to mask the rail and body to keep the specs right, without you ever realizing that there's bare anywhere on there.

Plus, his pricing is reasonable. And his white coat is beautifully pure. hit him up at

http://www.kpcustoms.net

you won't be disappointed. Oh, and if you need your emag flashed while it's there, ship EVERYTHING to him, and tell him to get ahold of me. I'll swing by and do it for ya, free of charge while it's there. :-)

--Dave

funkmunky56

12-27-2003, 10:58 AM

oh, and my battery? went to the battery happy place, where it feels all snug and warm, and unencumbered by it's harsh metal enclosure... heh.

check the hump in my tank cover. I disassembled the battery entirely, molded an arc of thin plastic around the curve of my tank, and fastened the cells to that. rewired, wrapped, and sealed... I have a custom low-profile backridin' battery pack that COMPLETELY changes the balance of my mag with that Halo up top. it's not front-heavy anymore!

All this can be done, including rewiring your emag board for the remote battery connector... for a price. PM me for details. :-) --Dave