So many options of setups, what is really the most practical?

[Macpaintballer]

Hello,
I'm primarily a pump player, and I'm looking at getting a nice semi to play around with. The Automag really seems to appeal to me for size and weight, and the design seems very reliable. However, with some many different valves, bolts, bodies, and other things, I am a little confused.

I'd like to use CO2 because of weight issues... I don't like a big HPA tank. However, if I use something like a 47/3000, I don't know how practical that will be with efficiency. Another thing is short stroking. I'm not a big paint hoser, but if I want to hose, I'd like to be able to do it without serving my opponents paint smoothies.


So basically, if I wanted to use CO2 (Anti-Siphon of course... maybe an X-Chamber if it doesnt starve the marker too much), what are my different valve and bolt and w/e crazy stuff AGD makes can I use?

Any other little tidbits I should be aware of?

Also, I'd like to use a Single Trigger Frame, but not the plastic one AGD makes. What are some nice frames? Also, would they be compatitble with the new on/off assembly.. I think it's the ULT or something. Sorry for not being very clear on that.

Thanks everyone, I appreciate it.

[jewie27]

If you are using Co2, do not use a ReTro Valve or X-Valve. Co2 isn't compatible with these valves. You must only use Co2 on A.I.R. Valves ( the older model classic valves). Benchmark makes nice trigger frames if you don't like the CARBON FIBER frame from AGD. If you are worried about short-stroking the trigger get the Level 10 upgrade from AGD, since it eliminates all chops.

[Colangela]

My mag which i just built is very light even with a high pressure tank. the ULE bodies are very light. I believe that in order to have the ULE trigger you need an x-valve, which requires HPA. But, a fiber wrapped HPA tank isnt nessisarily very heavy.

[Branchvillian]

Welcome to the family...maybe :D

You will want to go with the older A.I.R. valves if you are going to be using co2. The RT valves will not be compatible with Co2.

As far as single finger triggers go, I have seen a nice Dye one on my friends mag, but I'm not sure where he got it.

If you are worried about short stroking, you should really get compressed air, and an RT valve. That will push your finger up after every shot, and ensure that you don't short stroke...mostly.

As far as bodies, I am going to have to say get yourself a nice ULE body. They are lightwieght, and they are cocker threaded. They come with an angel feed tube, and angel detents.

You cannot put the ULT into anything but an X-Valve, and certain RT valves. So unless you ditch the Co2 and AIR valve, you cannot get a ULT without introducing short stroking problems, alot of them.

[bleachit]

yes you can put a ult in a classic valve.

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?threadid=110976

[hitech]

Originally posted by Macpaintballer
Another thing is short stroking. I'm not a big paint hoser, but if I want to hose, I'd like to be able to do it without serving my opponents paint smoothies.


A level 10 classic valve (A.I.R Valve) will keep you from serving up paint smoothies. CO2 has it's issues, but you probably know about those. If you insist on running CO2, use a palmer stabilizer. You could try the new on/off valve (ULE Trigger Kit, or ULT for short) in the classic valve. It's might work for you. If you short stroke it enough (with the ULT) you may "chuff" (no have enough air pressure to fire the paintball out of the barrel) and "double feed". This will cause barrel breaks even with the level 10. However, you might not... :D

[Macpaintballer]

Thanks everyone.

One more question: How efficient would, say a RT ULE Custom Be off HPA? Thanks.

[nerobro]

if you're concerned about weight. A 45/45bottle with screw in reg is lighter than a 20oz co2 tank.

[dyepunk54]

hpa is alot lighter than c02,