Quick Valve question

[Jedi180]

can someone please clarify the differences and similarities between the Retro, RT, RT pro and E-mag valves :)

I currently have an e-mag valve in a classic body, and wanted to know what kind of upgrade options i have, also if anything ever breaks, which is the correct parts to buy. I know that some on/off assemblies are longer etc.

Cheers.

[Dayspring]

Technically, there are no differences between all the valves you put up performance wise.

The Classic RT valve is different b/c of how it receives its air supply (Banjo bolt & through the rail). Plus it's somewhat skinnier than the other valves b/c the Classic RT body would overhang the valve.

All the other valves are the same. The pin length depends on the body/rail that the valve is put on.

For your classic mag w/ Emag valve, you'd want the .750 pin/assembly.

[PissedGodzilla]

Holy Crap dude my head hurts.... lol

[Jedi180]

so you want to avoid the RT then because of its incompatibility i guess.
whats the diff between an ReTro and an RT pro ? or is the ReTro a classic RT ?
aha, i justfound http://www.warpig.com/forums/tech/agd/messages/1073361707515.shtml

so the RT pro is the same as the ReTro i guess :)

[Dayspring]

Well, since you can't really buy a classic RT valve, that simplifies the issue a whole lot.

The RT Pro Valve, Emag Valve and the ReTro valve are the SAME valve. Just different laser engraving.

The difference comes in the on/off assembly & pin length.

*EDIT*
Oh yeah, forgot to add. Upgrade options. Since they are all the same valve, it makes no sense to upgrade the valve outside of adding the level 10 anti chop kit.

You could go to the Xvalve, but it's an aluminum ReTro valve w/ level 10. So if you add the level 10 to your current valve, you'd have the same valve, just not all aluminum.

[Jedi180]

ahhh, thankyou :)

[Jedi180]

Originally posted by Dayspring
For your classic mag w/ Emag valve, you'd want the .750 pin/assembly.

however i bought this valve 2nd hand, and i ASSUME it has the original emag on/off, which uses the .712 i think, seems to work fine :confused:
i'll have words with the guy i bought it off anyway :)

and do you know anything about the quad o-ring in the e-mag valves ?

[Dayspring]

There's the minor difference in Emag valves.

Pre #1000 valves don't have the quad oring & use a .728 pin. After that, they started using the quad and switched to a .712 pin.

Now, did the guy you buy the valve off of get an Xvalve? Cuz if he did, he had to keep his on/off pin & assembly. Therefore you'd be running the .750 pin if he switched them.

Best way to tell is to take a set of calipers to it.

[Jedi180]

hmm well its #01049 i think, dont have it here atm.
i've turned the guys attention to this thread, cheers for all your help :)

[Jui Viente Dos]

It doesn't really matter because they all shoot the same. All of the valves are reactive and have the same characteristics in the end, no matter how many o-rings.

[Jedi180]

im not questioning their performance.... i KNOW they all do the same job
i just want to know so if i ever run into any trouble with them, i will know which are compatible etc

[Gadget]

Just to confirm (I was the person Jedi purchased the E-Mag valve from), your valve doesn't have the E-Mag on/off pin in it.

I got a X-valve for my E-Mag and swapped the pins (and quad o-ring) - so your valve has whatever size pin comes as stock with a X-valve and a normal teflon top on/off o-ring. :)

[Jedi180]

grrooovy :)

[Evil1]

I hav my emag valve in one of my old minimags and I use the .745 pin. It seems to work better, however I don't think these pins are made by AGD I think some guy makes them. I got mine on ebay way back in the summer.