Okay now I know why people hate these things...

[Chestercopperpot]

Mods: I'm not sure where this should go. I put it here because it more of a complaint against AGD than a technical question. Move if you wish.

I jumped onto the mag bandwagon about a two weeks ago, mainly because of the positive coments found on this board. I have been playing for a while. Perviously I have ownwed a tippmann, which was rock solid reliable, and a cocker which very occainsionally would go down, but the problems were always quite easy to fix (maybe I would miss one hour to fix a leaky three way). When I first got my mag it was HEAVEN. I couldn't belive it. A brand new ULE custom straight from the factory. Looked great shot great, the velocity was right where I needed it. And best of all it never choped, a had a ball burst occainsionally , but chopping was a thing of the past. I couldn't believe that everybody wasn't raving about these things. That lasted for about one half day of play (1000 balls). At first the problems were minimal, a bit of bolt stick, the occasional double fire, etc. A pretty broad range of symptoms. Then the trigger started cutting out. Then lots of leaking down the barrel. All these problems started to manifest within 500 rounds. No warning it would just stop working. So I take the marker and go down a carrier on the LX. I leave it with three shims in there (as it came from the factory) which seemed like a lot, but whatever. It starts firing again (no more leaking down the barrel), but now its super duper reactive. Impossible to fire just one shot. So its time to work on the ULT. I open up the ULT and find that the boys at AGD had left a whopping 6 shims in the ULT! So I knock that slowly down to 2. Now, its problem city again. The bolt will no longer work with the medium spring. It will fire like three shots and then cut out. And when I go back down to the stock bolt its better, but still bolt stick city! Half the time the lx works its stops the trigger from working. I give up. I have now gone back to my paintball store twice just to get my tank filled so I can try and tune this puppy. I've gone from heaven to hell.

From a technical standpoint it is by far the most complicated marker I have ever seen. The tolerances for the ULT (judging by the shims) seems to be on the order of one hundreth of an inch. With tolerances that tight Mr. Kaye's engineers should have realized that reliability would very likly be sacrificed. I am not a techy kind of guy. My VCR is not programed. I just want a marker that shoots well, and doesn't break balls or down. Furthermore, I don't understand is why there wasn't pages upon pages of documentation for this mag. I don't care if it looks like it was printed on a home copier on cheap paper, as long as its LONg and Thourough. All that came with it was a outdated SHORT manual, a tiny 3 inch by three inch sheet for the ULT and a square CD-Room for the LX that jams my CD-rom drive every time I insert it. I mean I wasn't even told how to remove the x-valve in the manual. I spent a while before I figured out you need to pull the trigger before removing the valve. How the hell was I supoosed to know that? I had to figure out how to udjust the shims on my ULT by myself. I spent a while trying to pull the thing in two before I relized that you have to unscrew it. I guess I shouldn't rag on AGD too hard, because I have yet to call up tech service. If they treat me well I will post a public apology. But still, this marker just seems like a unsolvable puzzle. I fix one aspect and a new problem pops up. And worst of all the two systems, trigger and bolt, seem to affect on another. So while your busy adjusting one, the other that was tuned gets thrown out of wack.

Look I know I'm gonna get flamed to hell and back for criticizing a marker everyone loves. But I when I called up AGD to order the thing, I told them I was technically challenged. I mean I really emphasized this. They assured me that everything would be set up for me at the factory, and the only I would need to do to keep the thing working was add some oil at the end of a days play. I wouldn't be so upset if they had just been honest with me: that with ULT and LX this is an extremely complex marker, and somewhat less than reliable unless you luck out and its set up perfect.

[LittlePaintballBoy]

For the bolt stick change LX springs... seemed to work for me at least...

[tyrion2323]

Hrmm - that's very odd! I've heard of such problems, and even experienced a few, but a NIB ULE Custom? It should be working fine! I wish I had something to say, but I can only assure you that Mags are extremely reliable. Now, it's possible that you got a lemon, but I implore you: don't judge it quite yet! Let's see about getting everything worked out before! There are some great dealers and people on these forums (Tunaman, Rogue, etc) and I'm SURE that if you can't fix it at home, someone will help you out by fixing it for you! :)

[Edit] To remove the xValve, look at the bottom of the marker. Notice that, at the back of the gripframe (where your thumb might be) you'll see a large screw that'll take an allen wrench (I THINK it's an allen wrench). All you have to do is unscrew that, and the valve will pop right out. Make sure to disconnect your hose/macroline before doing this, of course! That's all you need!

Jacob

[GT]

quick Q what tank are you using?


Keep in mind that once it is broken in you will probally never going to have to touch it again.... period! Also keep in mind that the mag you are currently holding is probally one of the most advanced mech guns on the planet. Now I know that seems kinda hard to believe in your current state but trust it is just that good.

you have 2 options
1. you can give us the dl on what your current settings are, and I mean everything
2. or you can wait to call AGD. Up to you bud however AO is here to help, and we all have AIM...

[p8ntball1016]

He won't have to call AGD. Tom responds to problems personally here.

[11_Mile_TMaster]

I'm going to say this...

AGD should really have a warning about the ULT with the RT Pro Custom, Because Tuning is a must. I mean, Hell, I could have sworn that my ULT 'broke in,' because my reactivity started lowering and I had to add a shim when I first started with it.

I'll also say that the LX CAN be complex. But, most of the time, it's a very easy thing to set up. I had to do almost no tuning to my Level ten setup (Lower the carrier size after some paint,) But that was it. The Level ten on my classic seems to be behaving the same way as my other. My friend who convinced me to buy an RT Hasn't even had to change his carrier, and he's had his gun longer than I have.

By the by, If/when you call, ask about the RT Video. The RT Video Explains how to properly disassemble your marker... Including removing the valve. :) I got one with my RT Pro, maybe some sort of mixup happened and you didn't get it. I would reccomend checking and finding out what happened with that.

As for the bolt locking up, perhaps try moving it down to two shims?

[Beemer]

Heres the link to tune the bolt. All the rest ya need is here to, vids and manuals and all of AO to help.

You Got a Race gun ya just gotta tune a little.
It gets good after a little break in.


http://www.automags.org/resource/level10/index.shtml

[M-a-s-sDriver]

Just hang in there...you should NOT get flamed.
You do bring up a good point though...documentation.
I never really thought about instructions before, having had Mags' in one form or another for about 9 or 10 years now.
I have a dumb question for you: Did you run HP air only, or try co2? Remember, Rt's run on HP only.
Anytime I have to fix someone's Mag, 99% of the time oil will do the trick. Just put a drop of oil on everything, and it should scream.
As for bolt stick, if your barrel is TOO EFFICIENT, you may have to go the smaller spring. SP freaks, Dye 14", old AA's work great. Pipe's, Palmer's, Felons, They are just too good.
Try these for fixes.
Brent.

[wobbles82]

Sorry bout your problems with the ULE Custom, I had them too but AO IS the manual, heh. They definately should come with fore-warnings, and a bit of better manuals, especially concerning the ULT. As for the ULT..I used 6 shims, I dont think the techs were trying to be whopping, I loaded mine man. Dont forget to also USE that oil that they give you, like said before, its amazing what it can do. Also, as far as the gun stopping, does the trigger just dead stop but the gun is still aired up? If so, I noticed I sorta had a break in period for my mag, and also noticed a different spring stopped this trigger stoppage. If you can actually squeeze the trigger but get no shooting, work with the shims on that ULT. It really is confusing to get this ULT down, the Level Ten is easy, the ULT is quite tough. Keep at it bro!

[adam shannon]

Originally posted by gtrsi



Keep in mind that once it is broken in you will probally never going to have to touch it again.... period!

now thats budweiser true! you may have to tweak this and that for the first few thousand shots...and yeah it takes a few tanks of air to do this twaeking. but once its broken in and everything has settled into place it will give you years of solid no problem play. 3 drops of oil and a new o-ring or bumper now and then, no problems.

you must bear in mind that the mag is the most solid, and now most complex mech marker out there with the ult and LX. this much mechanical complexity does take a little time to break in...it does take a small amount of patience at first to learn to understand your mag and why it does what it does when it needs tuned...but once you get it youll realize what the symptoms are for problems and how to dial it in perfect once and for all.

and no, you shouldnt get flamed for your post. well articulated legitimate complaints deserve good answers...its the ignorant haters that deserve to get flamed.

and since your in NYC, if you want to learn that mag in and out slip over the river to jersey some time and see any of the mag fanatics over there, any weekend you can play with any of close to 50 mag players from ao in jersey...and if you really want to learn that marker see tunaman. mel at pbx in jersey city can hook you up too. and any of the guys from blackcell could straighten you out also.

[cphilip]

LOL! Copper calm down now. This is easy.

First of all 6 shims in the ULT is prolly OK. Many use that setting

The issue here is this is your first time with a mag and you decided to start with the MOST complicated set up of them all in a Mag. And you have no experience with them. If you had any experience all this would be so natural to you that you would already be running. But now you have already started changing things. And in fact you most likely just needed to oil and shoot a bit before you did that.

I tell ya what. You send it to me and I will fix it for you. Or better yet closer to you is Tunaman in New Jersey and he will do the same. Whatever you need we will do.

BUT !!!! if you really want to learn then your in the right place and it really IS better if you learn yourself. It will stick with you forever and you will know exactly what to do when and if you ever need to again.

A peice of advice. Do not do too many things BEFORE you seek help your first time. It makes it difficult for us to figure out where you are at that point. Trust me... once you understand the Mag its the simplest thing in the world to fix and tune. And its stable as heck once its set up.

Want some help? We will!

[Chestercopperpot]

Okay thanks everyone for being supportive rather than angry. I'm not saying that AGD makes a bad product. The gun itself feels really well made. Most quality items just have certain feel to them, and the ULE custom definately has that feel. Still though I don't think my marker was set up that well at the factory. Maybe someone fell asleep at the proverbial switch.

It's nice to know that once I do get it right it will work nice. Definitely something to shoot for. Still bolt stick is awful. Without taking off the hopper there is no way to fix it mid game. You're basically cannon fodder. You can't even shoot air!

Also one quick suggestion for Mr. Kaye: get rid of the sight rail. Ugh. It feels cheap, in contrast to the rest of the marker, and has plenty of sharp edges to cut little kid's fingers on. Instead how about a quick disconnect for the valve. That way I could work on the problem a LOT easier.

Anyway I didn't want to make this a tech question (wrong forum) but since a few people have been asking...

I have X-valve, LX, and ULT.

My problem is basically that if I get a ball caught in the LX the bolt only resets half the time. The other half of the time the trigger stops working (that what I am discribing when I say bolt stick) Also the LX is pretty rough on paint with the small spring. I would NOT stick my toungue in there (kinda hurts my finger).

I am using the shortest spring I got. Middle (red) spring makes the bolt stick somewhat more and The big silver spring doesn't work at all. I have to really crank my velocity to get the red one to work (about 1 and a half turns out from all the way up).

I have two shims in my ULT its a little reactive but wont go into runaway. It feels pretty good.

I have two LX shims and four ULT shims in my power tube. (i'm using the ULT shims because I crushed a lot of LX shims by accident)

I am using the 1 carrier. 2 leaked like crazy (and changed pitch when I pushed on the bolt) and 1.5 leaked a little bit. .5 made the problem with the bolt not resetting worse.

When I pull the trigger back all the way and hold it there is a tiny leak that quickly stops (maybe two seconds long)

P.S. I used a lot of oil in the gun (autolube) and I promise I didn't touch the thing until it really started having problems. Trust me opening up the mag was something I didn't want to do.

[Digits]

Originally posted by Chestercopperpot
Mods: I'm not sure where this should go. I put it here because it more of a complaint against AGD than a technical question. Move if you wish.

I jumped onto the mag bandwagon about a two weeks ago, mainly because of the positive coments found on this board. I have been playing for a while. Perviously I have ownwed a tippmann, which was rock solid reliable, and a cocker which very occainsionally would go down, but the problems were always quite easy to fix (maybe I would miss one hour to fix a leaky three way). When I first got my mag it was HEAVEN. I couldn't belive it. A brand new ULE custom straight from the factory. Looked great shot great, the velocity was right where I needed it. And best of all it never choped, a had a ball burst occainsionally , but chopping was a thing of the past. I couldn't believe that everybody wasn't raving about these things. That lasted for about one half day of play (1000 balls). At first the problems were minimal, a bit of bolt stick, the occasional double fire, etc. A pretty broad range of symptoms. Then the trigger started cutting out. Then lots of leaking down the barrel. All these problems started to manifest within 500 rounds. No warning it would just stop working. So I take the marker and go down a carrier on the LX. I leave it with three shims in there (as it came from the factory) which seemed like a lot, but whatever. It starts firing again (no more leaking down the barrel), but now its super duper reactive. Impossible to fire just one shot. So its time to work on the ULT. I open up the ULT and find that the boys at AGD had left a whopping 6 shims in the ULT! So I knock that slowly down to 2. Now, its problem city again. The bolt will no longer work with the medium spring. It will fire like three shots and then cut out. And when I go back down to the stock bolt its better, but still bolt stick city! Half the time the lx works its stops the trigger from working. I give up. I have now gone back to my paintball store twice just to get my tank filled so I can try and tune this puppy. I've gone from heaven to hell.

From a technical standpoint it is by far the most complicated marker I have ever seen. The tolerances for the ULT (judging by the shims) seems to be on the order of one hundreth of an inch. With tolerances that tight Mr. Kaye's engineers should have realized that reliability would very likly be sacrificed. I am not a techy kind of guy. My VCR is not programed. I just want a marker that shoots well, and doesn't break balls or down. Furthermore, I don't understand is why there wasn't pages upon pages of documentation for this mag. I don't care if it looks like it was printed on a home copier on cheap paper, as long as its LONg and Thourough. All that came with it was a outdated SHORT manual, a tiny 3 inch by three inch sheet for the ULT and a square CD-Room for the LX that jams my CD-rom drive every time I insert it. I mean I wasn't even told how to remove the x-valve in the manual. I spent a while before I figured out you need to pull the trigger before removing the valve. How the hell was I supoosed to know that? I had to figure out how to udjust the shims on my ULT by myself. I spent a while trying to pull the thing in two before I relized that you have to unscrew it. I guess I shouldn't rag on AGD too hard, because I have yet to call up tech service. If they treat me well I will post a public apology. But still, this marker just seems like a unsolvable puzzle. I fix one aspect and a new problem pops up. And worst of all the two systems, trigger and bolt, seem to affect on another. So while your busy adjusting one, the other that was tuned gets thrown out of wack.

Look I know I'm gonna get flamed to hell and back for criticizing a marker everyone loves. But I when I called up AGD to order the thing, I told them I was technically challenged. I mean I really emphasized this. They assured me that everything would be set up for me at the factory, and the only I would need to do to keep the thing working was add some oil at the end of a days play. I wouldn't be so upset if they had just been honest with me: that with ULT and LX this is an extremely complex marker, and somewhat less than reliable unless you luck out and its set up perfect.

AGD doesn't need a long manual.. Instead you can just ask a question on these forums and it will get answered just as quickly and probablly better then any manual.. Also, I have a 2 and a half our video that came with an old mag I bought.. That thing is hella thorough.. I don't know how similar the classic valves are to the X's.. But AGD should really include a video with the markers with x valves.. Because it is a GREAT way to learn as it is all infront of you..

*Edit*.. And also, your story sounds alot like my brothers with his cocker.. He replaced EVERY part on it.. Including body, frontblock, valve.. Everything and it wouldn't work.. He gave it to variouse people to try and fix untill finally he found an eclipse tech who seemed to get it to work.. But then something else went wrong so he traded it for a nasty imp.. I know for a fact he likes the imp alot more.. Maybe mags just arn't for you

[cphilip]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Chestercopperpot
I am using the shortest spring I got. Middle (red) spring makes the bolt stick somewhat more and The big silver spring doesn't work at all. I have to really crank my velocity to get the red one to work (about 1 and a half turns out from all the way up).

Use the red one and put in two normal shims. Use the same oring and put that 1.0 Carrier in and oil it slightly. Cranking the velocity up is totaly normal when using this one from the short one. Thats what you have to do. Do not worry about that.

I have two shims in my ULT its a little reactive but wont go into runaway. It feels pretty good.

Fine. Leave it alone for now. But three of four would be lighter and probably be fine too.

I have two LX shims and four ULT shims in my power tube. (i'm using the ULT shims because I crushed a lot of LX shims by accident)

Again just leave the two normal shims in there.

I am using the 1 carrier. 2 leaked like crazy (and changed pitch when I pushed on the bolt) and 1.5 leaked a little bit. .5 made the problem with the bolt not resetting worse.

1.0 is fine for now.


When I pull the trigger back all the way and hold it there is a tiny leak that quickly stops (maybe two seconds long)

P.S. I used a lot of oil in the gun (autolube) and I promise I didn't touch the thing until it really started having problems. Trust me opening up the mag was something I didn't want to do.

OK not let me get this straight... you say "until it started acting up" as if it at first was not? this is important. It started after a while?

[Mag Master 04]

god copper u have the longest posts inthe history of AO, but as cphilip said once u learn then they are soo simple to work on and know what is wrong with them, not that u should have problems anyways after u learn it and get it set up right, i rarely mess with mine, if i do its just a rainy day and i have air in my tank and an itchy trigger finger

[Chestercopperpot]

CPhillip, thanks for the fast response.

To answer your question. Yes it started doing this on its own. I was finishing my first tank and the marker started to act strange. I figured it was a low tank. But when I got my tank filled the problem continued. The worst thing I had done before this started to happen, was undo the feild strip screw. The valve didn't pop out (I didn't know to rotate the valve) so I pushed the valve back in and re tightened the screw. So unless that can mess this thing up, I hadn't done anything prior to the problems occuring.
Thanks again.

P.S. The gun was NOT gassed up when I undid the screw.

P.P.S. where do you guys play in Jersey? I'm going over to rex plex tomorrow anyway, so if you know the normal Ao hangout I might head there instead.

Mag Master: You should have seen my first post. It was a joke (sooooo long). The only reply I got was someone welcoming me to AO and asking me if he had just read the bible. lol.

[cphilip]

It is possible to bend the on off pin if you move the valve while there is pressure but... well lets just assume not for now. I can instruct you on how to inspect that later.

I suspect your only issue was needing to tweek the level 10 when that started. Or perhaps even lube the regulator pin assembly...But now lets get it back to where I instructed you.

Now its getting late so lets continue this tomorrow? I know its late in your neck of the woods too. But we are close to fixing this. I am also going to have you lube the Regulator Assembly so hang on to your hat! I am not abandoning you. We will get this fixed but lets start fresh in the morning ok?

Do the things I told you already and I will find this thread in the morning and we continue getting this thing fixed. Deal?

[Chestercopperpot]

Absolutely. Have a good nite. Thanx for the help.

[cphilip]

Same to ya bro! Its gonna be fixed! I can feel it! :D

[Digits]

I know this may sound dumb simple whatever..

But did you check to see if your rail bushing is still there? It may have fell out/off when you removed the field strip screw..

[cphilip]

Originally posted by Digits
I know this may sound dumb simple whatever..

But did you check to see if your rail bushing is still there? It may have fell out/off when you removed the field strip screw..

That normaly does not exhibit the symptoms he is describing. but it is a good thing to notice every once in a while. It will cause a no shoot situation. But normaly when it does not shoot it will not shoot at all. Until you losen the field strip screw and push the valve forward and retighten it. Then is shoots a few times and that backs the valve out and it quits again. And refuses to shoot. Thats the symptoms of a missing rail bushing. No leaks. Just shoot and then no shoot.

[Digits]

.. Ya ..

When I was missing my rail bushing (I couldn't figure out what was wrong either haha.. ) The only thing that happened was a major leak once i'd screw in the tank.. It was very annoying.. I'm just saying just in case lol.. I know I was pretty pissed after screwing with it for so long thinking it was the valve or something and finding out it was just a mesely rail bushing..

[cphilip]

Oh ask me how I know! This is a story you might enjoy. And it is my first ever Mag experience!

The first Mag I ever owned was used and it came to me without a rail bushing in it. Little did I know at the time.... And we puzzled over this thing for a while as to why it would shoot so well for a few shots and then all the sudden stop and refuse to shoot. We rebuilt it and everything and still it did this. Finaly I got a hold of another mag and looked into the rail and noticed the thing in there. Then I came here and looked hard at the parts list and noticed this thing listed there. I then took some thin aluminum flashing and made one! Bent it around the field strip screw and put it in there. And it fixed it! Now this was about October of 2000 and it was my first time ever visiting AO and AGD sites. And I did not ever post then. But in fact it was my first call ever to AGD and my first conversation with Jon to have him send me one! I used that home made one for a few weeks until Jon got one too me. I still have that home made rail bushing in my tool box as a matter of fact!

Very important piece that Rail Bushing.

[Digits]

Originally posted by cphilip
Oh ask me how I know! This is a story you might enjoy. And it is my first ever Mag experience!

The first Mag I ever owned was used and it came to me without a rail bushing in it. Little did I know at the time.... And we puzzled over this thing for a while as to why it would shoot so well for a few shots and then all the sudden stop and refuse to shoot. We rebuilt it and everything and still it did this. Finaly I got a hold of another mag and looked into the rail and noticed the thing in there. Then I came here and looked hard at the parts list and noticed this thing listed there. I then took some thin aluminum flashing and made one! Bent it around the field strip screw and put it in there. And it fixed it! Now this was about October of 2000 and it was my first time ever visiting AO and AGD sites. And I did not ever post then. But in fact it was my first call ever to AGD and my first conversation with Jon to have him send me one! I used that home made one for a few weeks until Jon got one too me. I still have that home made rail bushing in my tool box as a matter of fact!

Very important piece that Rail Bushing.

Ya it is very important.. Also frustrating if you loose it :D.. But ya my story is somewhat similar except mine just leaked.. But I did infact look EVERYWHERE for 'rail bushing' Every store in the city closest to me no one had anything.. So then I went to radio shack, And found some type of thing that looked somewhat like a rail bushing.. So it fit nicely in the rail, but the field strip screw would not go through it.. So we drilled through it untill it got thin enough for the field strip screw to go through.. I'm still using that piece BTW lol.. But soon I will have a proper piece with the RT-Pro I ordered :).. The only other difference in my story is I don't think I really lost it.. I think somehow it got bent, and I tried to bend it back but it snapped apart lol..

[Mag Master 04]

OMG THE RARE ULTIMATE HOME MADE BUSHING...ILL TAKE IT FOR 1000 bucks, haha, that would suck though, hope it never happens to me

[Digits]

As long as you take care of it it prolly wont.. I can't even remember how I bent it the one way in the first place.. All I remember is snapping it trying to bend it back..

[Chestercopperpot]

I'm sorry last post for the nite. I swear.

Cphillip: God I hope AGD is giving you a salary. Sorry, but I'm outta air. Gonna have to continue this tomorrow evening, if thats okay with you...

Digits: trust me, Being that I don't even know what a rail bushing is or looks like, that is NOT a stupid post. If you get a chance can you describle what it looks like to me? thanks.:)

[Digits]

Basically.. Take out your field strip screw.. Now look in the rail the field strip screw fits into.. There should be a little round hollow piece that sits in there.. If its not in there it might be on your field strip screw (mine comes off with mine because its so loose).. But ya basically it sits inside of the rail in which you put the field strip screw threw.. And its just round, hollow, and rather thin..

Oh and it's probablly about 1-2cm long..

[cphilip]

OK Good morning!

YA if there is anything in that hole at all its the bushing.

I moving this on over to Tech for us to finish up....


Hold on to your hat!

[cphilip]

OK before we go any further and after you have returned everything to the point we discussed last night we are going to do one more thing just to eliminate it from being a possible problem.

We are going to lubricate the Regulator Pin Valve assembly.

This thing

http://store.airgun.com/agdprod/images/parts/Regpin_2.jpg

You can see its location if you look closely at this:

http://store.airgun.com/agdprod/images/parts/retro_z.jpg


Now this gismo is located in the back part of the Valve. It requires that we unscrew the back half of the valve from the front half to get to it. It might be very tight but it will unscrew. So do that by twisting the back part counter clockwise. When you get that loose you will see that the back half of this pin sticks into a hole in the rear most half of the valve. So when you reinstall it make sure you line that up as you put them back together.

Now once you have them apart you will find a brass looking piece laying over the pin in the rear of the front half. Remove that. Then you will find one white oring that needs to come out too. After that the pin will pull straight out. It might take a pair of plyers to get a hold of it but do not squeeze them too tight and crush the pin hole but pull that thing out.

When you get it out slather oil all over that pin assemblies rubber oring looking things and then reinstall it and push it in and out a few times.

then reinstall the oring and then the brass retainer. And carefully line the back half of the hole up as you return it to the front half. And screw it back together. Hand tight but tight.

Now your ready to go.

If you have not slathered oil onto the on off pin now is a good time to do that. Put some on it and work the on off in up and down in the assembly a few times till it feels like its moving fairly freely.


Now reassemble it all and lets try it.

Red Spring 2 spacers in it (you were using your 1.0 wich we will stay with for this point)
Double check that the white flat plastic backing washer is in the bottom of the power tube before you put the carrier back in.
ULT with 2-4 spacers in it.

Be prepared to turn up velocity now. Make sure you got air.

Report back to me whats going on.

[Frontman69]

i personaly have never had eny trouble with my mag........fudge i just jinxed it

[Chestercopperpot]

Doh! I'm sorry I didn't respond earlier Cphillip. I really appreciate all the help. It seems that I'm having a lot of technical issues lately, and not just with my mag, my car broke down on the way to the feild today! There's nothing like been stuck on the side of the Jersey Turnpike to put you in your place. Anyway, I just got back, the car is in the shop, and I'll have to get my tank filled tomorrow. Until then though I'm gonna set up the gun as you specified. I'll test it tomorrow, and let you know what happens (fingers crossed).

Oh and by the way the rail bushing looks ok. Thanks digits.

[Caffiend]

Chestercopperpot,
Do you carry a battle swab on the field with you? If you ever get bolt stick, just shove it down the barrel and it will reset. Voila! No more cannon fodder :D

[cphilip]

OK thats cool. Sorry to hear about your car. I will check tomorrow and see where you are. Have a good one.

[Chestercopperpot]

BINGO! (good enuff anyway.) She works. Right now I'm using 3 LX shims for the bolt and 2 ULT shims on the trigger. Bolt stick has been completely eliominated! I tried the orginal set up you suggested. It worked, but I was shooting bullets. I don't have a chrono but if thats not over 300 its pretty darn close. I went to the lighter spring so I could turn down the velocity (I play mainly indoor). The two shims for the bolt worked, but very occaisionally the LX would stick for just a second before reseting, as if the on/off was sticky. With three shims that doesn't happen. My only problem now is that it seems to be really ineffiecent. It gets about 350 shots per 1000psi on an 92 ci. When I pull back the trigger and hold it there is a little slow leak that goes away after about 2 seconds. I guess that plays into the ineffiecency. I'm getting a standard on/off from AGD tomorrow. I'm gonna switch out the ULT and see if that leak goes away. Maybe my effiecency will go up. Still though the gun shoots great. If I can't improve the effiecency I'll stilll be satisfied. I'm not sure if it was oiling that peice or just changing around the shims, but I'm really happy with where it is now. Anyway I was thinking about it and I don't know if I can honestly endorse AGD without reservation. What I would say to prospective buyers is that if you have an internet connection, go for it. Otherwise make sure you know a mag guru personally. In conclusion: this forum rocks, Cphilip is a mag God, and subaru outbacks need better starter motors.

P.S. Cphilip, if your ever gonna play in New York send me a PM. I'll hook you up with several pods worth.

[striker]

As for the slow leak down the barrel, that is (most likely) a LX issue. If you want to, try tweaking with the number of shims in the LX. Can't remember if its add one or take one away, but one of those two options should fix that leak.

Glad to hear your mag is working properly now. :)

[cphilip]

Copper, that kind of air usage is normal when dry firing. When you shoot paint it will go way down. You might have to move to a tighter carrier soon though. But using that same oring and settings. But wait till it starts leaking a bit before you do. Once you break it in it will be good for A LONG TIME. It will not take constant changing once that oring is broken in good. Just one adjustment will last you for a good long time. And do try and set up that middle spring later after you get all that broken in some. Its much gentler on paint. But it will take a tiny bit more air.