Bleeding air hoses on non-screw in tanks?

[ScatterPlot]

Hey, this might be more of a technical question, but it's kinda wimpy, but mods please move it if you want.

Anyway I'm new to the whole non-screw in tank idea, and I have a question. After playing a day of paintball, and I turn it off (Armageddon), do I need to do anything to bleed off the lines other than just shooting the thing? I'm shooting an X-valved mag. There will be some more air in the line (after I shoot) since the slightly pressurized air would not be able to overcome the bolt spring. So, should I worry about that? With a screw in you could obviously unscrew it but with a Geddon, well, I dont know. Im running Macroline so a quick-disconnect isn't an option for me. Thanks
Bert

[Prezents]

I would run a slide-check or a pro-connect in the line from the tank to the marker.

[Mag Master 04]

its not a big deal, but i am running a macro set up with a quicky...just take any QD and the male end comes apart from the hose and u take 2 wrenches and seperate the hose from the male end of the QD then take a strait macro fitting and replace it and yur on yur way, ill see if i can get a pic if u want

[ScatterPlot]

NO thats OK I see what you're saying, I guess I'll try that. Thanks. Do you guys know of a solution for the reg coming unscrewed from the tank? Like how to seal it, who to take it to, ect?

[Mag Master 04]

wut kinda tank...and take it to yur local shop they will hook ya up

[Methylphenidate]

ok if you just run macro line from the tank to the gun it ispossible to remove the hose from the fitting and degas the gun with the remaining air in the line. you need to take an allen wrench hold it sideways against the fitting and press down then pull the line out. however this is very hard on your fittings. your other option would be like they said before a slide check or pro connect. i myself use a proconnect and love it.

[tony3]

Originally posted by bertmcmahan
NO thats OK I see what you're saying, I guess I'll try that. Thanks. Do you guys know of a solution for the reg coming unscrewed from the tank? Like how to seal it, who to take it to, ect?

You should need to seal it with anything but an oring that is probably already in there. Just screw it on with your hands really tight and all the pressure in the bottle should keep it on there

[GT]

your only SAFE option is a slide check.

this one is nice. I got myine used for 20 bucks, its not cheap but it is the porsche' of qd slide checks
http://store.yahoo.com/actionvillage/039-4100.html

these are nice to http://store.yahoo.com/actionvillage/039-5500-1.html alittle big but nice.

[cphilip]

Not prefered way, but will work in a pinch, is to take a short wooden dowel or something that will not scratch things and push the bolt over to the side and force the bolt to vent. If its a level 10 bolt that is. And if there is no proper way to vent the excess pressure this will do it. This will slowly allow you to release it a bit at a time. It takes some wiggling but it can be vented this way. but nothing beats having a better way to do it. This will just get you out of a jam if you need to.

[PBCapo]

How exactly do slide checks work? Why are they so much more expensive than QD's?

[Mindflux]

how do you use a Slidecheck w/ a QD for macroline? I was looking at this yesterday, and you'd need (for the QD end) a macro fitting with a female end to fit the male end of the QD?? I havn't found one yet.

I chose macro over SS for the sake of not scratching my markers body.

[cphilip]

Originally posted by Mindflux
how do you use a Slidecheck w/ a QD for macroline? I was looking at this yesterday, and you'd need (for the QD end) a macro fitting with a female end to fit the male end of the QD?? I havn't found one yet.

I chose macro over SS for the sake of not scratching my markers body.

They make em. When you run across them be sure and buy a few of them.

[Mindflux]

Originally posted by cphilip


They make em. When you run across them be sure and buy a few of them.

IF i ever find them ;)

[NJPaint]

hmmm, I've always just taken off my hopper, turned off my airflow (with on/off asa) and then fired a few shots, got all the air out of the system and has always worked (mag, cocker, 2k1 timmy, e-mag)

[ScatterPlot]

I'd like to use a proconnect, but MAN 60 bucks for a fitting is a little rich for my blood. I'll stick with either the slide check or a QD (I already have both). On the one you mentioned, is it really hard to slide it around? The one I have is REALLY hard to move, even with no air in the line. I'll try to find a pic.

[Hexis]

Originally posted by PBCapo
How exactly do slide checks work? Why are they so much more expensive than QD's?

http://www.hxxl.com/~mjb/Paintball/parts/SlideCheck.jpg

[sniper1rfa]

I dont like slide checks, they break.


The cooper-t purge valve (here (http://www.cooper-t.com/miscellaneous.html)) is an awesome choice if you have a spare port. If not, put it on a T fitting, with your hose on the other side of it.

[ScatterPlot]

NM about that SC, I lubed it up and it moves great.

[Mindflux]

Originally posted by bertmcmahan
I'd like to use a proconnect, but MAN 60 bucks for a fitting is a little rich for my blood. I'll stick with either the slide check or a QD (I already have both). On the one you mentioned, is it really hard to slide it around? The one I have is REALLY hard to move, even with no air in the line. I'll try to find a pic.


They have a slidecheck + quick disconnect on pbgear.com for 19.99. It's not marked "proconnect" but I don't see any difference. (Other than possibly quality).

[Aegis]

A few points:

From the first post - I don't think you CAN turn a 'geddon off. You can drop the output pressure to zero with an allen but doing that while the line is pressurized is going to make you shoot parts across the room eventually.

To remove a Geddon, apocalypse, raptor, or similar tank with no on/off you will need a slide check or proconnect. Those are two completely different items.

To remove a Flatline or similar tank with a non-venting on/off, A LX valve will shoot down far enough to allow a QD to be released, but not far enough for a macro fitting to be released without some serious manhandling.

My recommendation -

Flatline - use a QD

Geddon - use a proconnect. Proconnects are big, but slide checks are HUGE.

[Gunga]

While all your suggestions about QD's, slide checks, pro connects, etc are all nice, you're all wrong. :p

With an Armageddon, all you have to do to degas/shut off the air system is to unscrew the bottle (or 'Arm' as AA calls it) from the regulator. Hope you didn't go out and buy any of that stuff the guys suggested. :)

Read the manual! :p

[LoveMyMagMoreThanYou]

Originally posted by Prezents
I would run a slide-check or a pro-connect in the line from the tank to the marker.

ditto

[Tron]

Anyone know the what the warranty is on a pro connect?

[Aegis]

Originally posted by Gunga
While all your suggestions about QD's, slide checks, pro connects, etc are all nice, you're all wrong. :p

With an Armageddon, all you have to do to degas/shut off the air system is to unscrew the bottle (or 'Arm' as AA calls it) from the regulator. Hope you didn't go out and buy any of that stuff the guys suggested. :)

Read the manual! :p

Gunga - are you able to screw it back on while the tank is full? Mine is practically impossible to screw in unless it is very low.

[Eric Cartman]

Just ditched my Max-Flo and picked up a Dynaflow. The on/off on the Dynaflow actually vents the whole line when it is turned off which is an incredibly sweet feature. Before that I used a slide check which worked well, but was bulky.

[ScatterPlot]

I didn't get a manual with mine since it's used but I will try to get my hands on one. The way it's set up is that it has an on/off valve inline, right off the 90 degree that connects it to a port. I haven't bought anything yet, since I already have both a QD and a slide check. The QD/Slide connect for 19.99, if it's what I'm thinking about, is just a QD and a SC mounted together, making the whole thing HUGE. I'd love to have a proconnect, but right now I gots no money :(. I'm gonna try something like this: 90 deg. out of the output hole, then the on/off ball valve, then a SC to microline hoses after that. It will be large, I know that, but it will be cheaper (since it's free) than a proconnect. That would definately be the best solution for this problem though.