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halfHP
01-11-2004, 09:58 PM
I have an xvalve that Ive been tinkering around with - initially I had everything working but have been slowly adding to it, added a ULE trigger kit and a few other things.

Anyway, my basic problem is that the gun gasses up and pops the trigger out like its ready to shoot. I pull the trigger in and nothing. I let off the trigger and the pressure pops the trigger right back out. I thought maybe the part that rests against the back of the trigger might not be long enough but thats not an issue - Ive screwed it out a bunch and now cant pull it all the way back before the toggle on the sear pushes all the way up against the trigger pin in the xvalve.

I thought maybe the problem was the ULE trigger kit so I put back the stock trigger and same thing.

Pretty much all of the work I have been doing on my gun besides the trigger has been on the power tube so I suspect the issue might be in there somewhere.

Any ideas? Im frustrated as heck - I want to play! Thanks a million in advance.

Nick

Joni
01-11-2004, 10:14 PM
I think you need to retune your lvl 10. I'm not sure, but by the sound of it, you changed the length of the trigger rod? DONT do that! Make sure its the same length it was before!

eddie885221
01-11-2004, 10:27 PM
maybe its bolt stick??????????????

joshweinerhead
01-11-2004, 10:28 PM
check your air ... i too had the same problem .. and then i looked at my nitro tank .. if it is anything below 900 psi the lvl 10 doesnt wanna work

halfHP
01-11-2004, 10:52 PM
air is good, refilled and try 2 different tanks even. not sure i understand how the trigger completely unscrewed would stop this from working - should just push the trigger out further right? If anything should be more hair i figured.

eddie885221
01-11-2004, 11:09 PM
MAYBE ITS BOLT STICK???

halfHP
01-11-2004, 11:12 PM
whats your solution if its bolt stick? I dont see how it could be, tried the loosest carrier for the oring and still nothing.

Aegis
01-11-2004, 11:15 PM
First off, messing with the length of the sear rod is a bad idea. Can't tell you how to reset it, but check the stickys up top and it is in there somewhere.

Second, your first description sounds like you needed to goose the velocity to get it to fire. The trigger was pulled, shutting the on/off, but you did not have enough pressure in teh chamber to fire so it just sits there. It is also possible that your carrier was too tight, but my guess is that you need to crank in more pressure or go to a shorter spring. Which spring were you using?

eddie885221
01-11-2004, 11:20 PM
IF ITS BOLT STICK THEN TAKE THE BARREL OFF AND PUSH THE BOLT TIL IT CICKS THEN FIRE

halfHP
01-11-2004, 11:23 PM
Pretty sure its not the velocity either as it's in pretty much all the way - but I will give that another try.

I kinda doubt the carrier is too tight either as I moved to the largest carrier and nothing, not even a leak like you would expect with one too big.

Strikes me as strange that it pressurizes the trigger and even pops all the way back out immediately with quite a bit of reactivity when you pull it - just never actually releases any air anywhere...not even a trickle.

Aegis
01-12-2004, 12:09 AM
I can tell you that none of my Level 10 installs will fire with the long spring, and only one will fire with the medium spring. The spring holds the bolt back, and has to be covercome by the pressure in the air chamber. You can have plenty of pressure to reset the trigger and still not have enough to fire.

Try the short spring, crank the velocity, reset your trigger rod and see what happens.

halfHP
01-12-2004, 01:45 AM
already using the shortest spring. even tried a worn out spring from my classic valve. nada.

Joni
01-12-2004, 06:59 AM
I dont know if this is it, but test it:
Remove the valve, let the barrel be in the body, and see if you can insert the bolt into the body without any friction. Maybe theres something that stops the bolt

halfHP
01-12-2004, 11:16 AM
will try that but it doesnt even shoot with the barrel off so I dont think the barrel is surpressing anything.

cphilip
01-12-2004, 11:37 AM
Time and time again we are seeing Reg Pin assemblies sticking because they are dry. On brand new Valves. They are dry and oiling throught the air lines does not get to them very good. I suggest you take that back half of that valve apart and put oil directly on that Regulator Pin assembly and then go back and return the set up to the way it was working before. Just to eliminate a sticking reg pin. Sounds like could be the issue that came up here on yours. And once that thing is oiled good it will be good for a LONG time.

halfHP
01-12-2004, 11:45 AM
doing that as we speak...hope it works!

thanks for the help,
Nick

halfHP
01-12-2004, 11:58 AM
you nailed it cphilip!

Thanks a ton!!!!

Nick

Evil1
01-13-2004, 03:39 AM
One other thing I would recommend for the reg pin that I use is called Bel Ray food grade grease. My gun has seemed to perform better after trying it like 6 months ago when I got my EMag. The only problem is that I don't know where to get the stuff. I work in a food ingriedients plant and we can't use any lubes w/ petroleum distillates so we don't contaminate anything. Also the stuff is made not to swell seals b/c some of the machines to which it is applied have tight seal tolerances and swelling would cause lots of problems.

cphilip
01-13-2004, 08:57 AM
Well I can tell you that RobAGD and Tunaman tipped me off to this. And Rob originaly instructed to mix a tiny bit of Dow33 with some marker oil into a thin paste. And coat the pin with this. And thats a great solution. It stays forever! But I have since found marker oil alone seems to do fine for a good while. Maybe not as long but most people have it. It gets them up and running. But if you can find some Dow and do that like once a year or so. Not a bad idea. At least maybe every 6 months oil that pin directly. It stays on there pretty good. But it seems to be difficult to get it to that area through the air line. So it takes a direct application to do it right and it can cause all sorts of sticking issues when the valve is fairly new. Eventually it would free up on its own probably. But why put up with that mess until it does. Easy fix and the fix is very long lasting. It is now the first thing I do to a X valve before I even gas it up the first time. Eliminates a lot of headaches.

PBCapo
01-13-2004, 09:31 PM
halfHP i had the same problem and i was freaking out/pissed off for like a week and a half, but cphil saved me too:p

Evil1
01-14-2004, 03:20 AM
Cphil, you mean the lube that comes w/ shockers and impulses right? The grease I use from my job lets me take some when I need it, but they don't really like me using it b/c it is very expensive! The stuff works really great though. The grease is actually designed to repel dirt and dust and does very well at doing so. The down side to my grease is that it is not readily available and costs someting like $75 for an 8 oz. canister of it.