PDA

View Full Version : Where to get Hardline?



Severe
01-18-2004, 03:12 PM
Anyone still using hardline with their setup? If so, where can you get it?

Thanks,

Steve

sneakyhacker420
01-18-2004, 03:29 PM
doc nickle does custom-fitted hardlines for any gun

Severe
01-18-2004, 05:12 PM
Doc does great work, no doubt. I love my barrel conversion drop-in, but for the hardline, I was hoping to find a do-it-yourself type of kit.

Thanks for the heads up though.

sneakyhacker420
01-18-2004, 08:07 PM
if its for an automag, there is something called a viper hardline kit, they aren't made anymore, but you'll occasionally find one on e-bay or f/s/t forums

StygShore
01-18-2004, 09:24 PM
They are called Venom hi-lines, not viper

might be easier to search if you know the rigth name :)


Styg

cledford
01-18-2004, 09:41 PM
First - Venoms are CRAP. Sorry to be so forward - but I've got to call it like I know it. Had one, it would typically work for a week, them start leaking like sieve. The problem that they're made in the EU (I believe Germany) and they are not threaded to 1/8NPT (US National Pipe Thread) usde on virtually all (including AGD) paintball products - but some close, but smaller European thread. I've had more then one AGD tech (Hoover, Black, Tuna) tell me that they'd experienced the same thing as I. Basically what happens is that you've got to use like 4 to 5 wraps of Teflon tape just to insure it doesn't leak on day one. (About 3 wraps more then I've ever needed for anything else...) With in a week or two (especially if you've disassembled once or twice) the fitting has been bounced around enough to have wiggled around to the point that the Teflon no longer sealing.

I'm sorry to come off so hard on the Venoms - but I'm more angry about that single PB purchase them any other. The shop wouldn't refund the purchase, and with the manufacturer out of the country I was screwed. I'd paid like $40 for mine - and that was a lot of money to me even now for something that just plain COULD NOT EVER WORK.

I'd like to figure out how to do my own hardlines also - if anyone knows of a kit, or where to buy the materials please post it here.

-Calvin

Doc Nickel
01-19-2004, 05:27 AM
I have been regularly asked about hardlines for 'Mags, and I've made more than a few over the years.

They have ALL had problems. I do NOT recommend them unless you're willing to put up with a little hassle for the cool look.

The main drawback is that the AIR valve has to rotate a little to "unlock" from the body. The stainless hardlines are so rigid that doing this gets to be difficult, if not impossible. The movement necessary to get it to unlock, as noted above, tends to cause it to eventually leak. The lines also make it hard to realign the AIR and plug it back in, again because they don't flex very well.

Also, the Venom lines used a sliding seal, not only to allow it to be disconnected easily, but also to allow that bit of flex to let the AIR unlock. These various parts all eventually started to leak- there's a reason you don't see them sold anymore.

I have a pic in my Galleries of a 'Mag with a hardline with a built-in QD. It looks cool, but it's a serious pain in the tailstock to remove the AIR valve. The valve needs to rotate, and the fittings simply will not allow it- they're too rigid and don't have the "play" necessary. I used to find it easier to pull the field-strip screw AND the grip frame screw, and lift the whole body free in order to get the AIR out.

The best setup, if you're willing to settle for a not-entirely-perfect arrangement in trade for the cool look, is to have two 90-degree fittings with a carefully bent tube in between, and remove the "pin" in the AIR valve for the Z-lock.

The tube is rigid enough to keep the AIR from blowing out if the field-strip screw breaks (which is what the Z-lock pin is for) but you'll have to use tools (a wrench) to disconnect the line when you want to work on the valve. You also have to be very careful to keep the fitting ends clean, as it uses a metal-to-metal compression seal.

Basically, they're cool looking and all, but WAY too much trouble to be worth it. Stick with microline or braided stainless.

Doc.

Threewheeler
01-19-2004, 07:46 AM
It should take a bit of measuring, but your typical macro line uses 1/4" OD tubing, right? Why can't you acquire a piece of 1/4" OD Stainless steel tubing and adapt that to the correct size for you. Make sure you use at least one of the "swivel" type macro connections and it should work pretty well.

Fell free to correct me if I'm wrong.

Ruiz A. "Three" Wheeler

Severe
01-19-2004, 08:25 AM
Thanks for the great explination Doc. Your website is, in fact, what got me considering it.

For the time being, I'll stick with Macro-line.

Steve

cledford
01-19-2004, 08:31 AM
Originally posted by Threewheeler
It should take a bit of measuring, but your typical macro line uses 1/4" OD tubing, right? Why can't you acquire a piece of 1/4" OD Stainless steel tubing and adapt that to the correct size for you. Make sure you use at least one of the "swivel" type macro connections and it should work pretty well.

Fell free to correct me if I'm wrong.

Ruiz A. "Three" Wheeler

Sounds like a good idea. The swivel connector might mitigate the issue Doc brought up. Anyone know of a source for 1/4" OD stainless?

-Calvin

Severe
01-19-2004, 08:38 AM
I think, someone correct me if I'm wrong, the way that Macroline seals is the quick-connector actually 'bites' into the plastic a little when it's under pressure.

I'm not sure you would get a good seal using the steel line. As an option, you could possible try copper tubing, which is somewhat softer. I think it's readily available in hobbie stores. I just don't know how much PSI it could withstand without rupturing.

steveg
01-19-2004, 08:40 AM
there is one additional step needed to use metal tube
with "quick disconnect" air fittings.
a groove needs to be formed into the tube at the point were
the collet inside the fitting touches the tube.
the collet is the metal star washer inside the fitting that makes
all the gouge makes on the plastic tube
and keeps it from blowing out of the fitting. :eek:

steveg
01-19-2004, 08:52 AM
as for were to buy try your yellow pages for tubing-metal
or hydraulic supplies.

here in Canada there is a company called Metal Supermarket
with locations almost everywere, expensive but if all you
want is 5" of 1/4" tube, they will sell it to you.

most metal suppliers will want to sell you an entire length
12' or more sometimes.

Finally if you buy metal tube make certain it is "seamless"

Doobie
01-19-2004, 12:55 PM
Just throwing my 2cents in here. Maybe I'm luck or sumfin' because my venom highline dlx is working fine after 2 years of use. I have not even changed my o-ring in it once. Like I said though...I could have the only good one out there :D
BTW...I got mine through Planet in UK.

Cheat71
01-19-2004, 01:05 PM
When i first bought my AMG the hardline burst, then i bought one of those slip washers from home depot, like 10 for $2, i replaced it and about after 5,000 rounds it burst again, i replaced it one more time and it burst while i was adjusting my reg, stick with braided hoses, they last a LONG TIME! Slide checks are usefull too