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View Full Version : First time with a mag, and I am at a loss of words



Inoculation
01-21-2004, 11:17 PM
I recently picked up a used minimag. The gun seems to be in good shape, but i went ahead and striped it down, replaced all the o-rings and lubed it liberally (with air-gun oil, and vasaline on the spring pack assembly). After rebuilding the gun, I can't get it to fire more than one time without the bolt sticking. So after researching a little bit I replaced the power tube spacer with a .220 (it had a .215) that didn't fix the problem so I went to the .225 and once again no luck. I have tried everything I know to get it right and nothing has helped. The gun has no leaks whatsoever when air is supplied (I submerged it in my bathtub to make sure lol). It seems as if the bolt is sticking on the powertube maybe??? But when I take it apart it seems to move pretty freely. For those of you who will ask the standard questions here are the answers. I'm in Southern California so weather is not a factor, its a blistering 72 degrees outside right now, I have both Co2 and Nitro set ups and niether make a difference, and yes I have tried it with and without paint. I would appreciate any info or suggestions that you folks (the wise and allknowing magmasters may have because I'm a noober at the mag stuff) Thanks in advance!!!

Miscue
01-21-2004, 11:26 PM
Welcome to AO!

Have you tried cranking up the velocity nut until it vents, and drop it down a bit until it stops?

Duke of Lawnchair
01-22-2004, 12:31 AM
The best I can think of is to do what Miscue advised.

That's what I'd do.

Inoculation
01-22-2004, 01:17 AM
yeah i did that a couple of times now. Oh well I've taken the thing apart so many times that i now know where every part goes lol. I'll figure it out sooner or later i supose

TAW
01-22-2004, 01:34 AM
Try firing it without the barrel on.

Aegis
01-22-2004, 01:35 AM
Where is the bolt sticking?

Inoculation
01-22-2004, 02:03 AM
the bolt is sticking on the power tube i assume. I can take a dowel and reset the bolt ansd refire but it won't reset itself.

athomas
01-22-2004, 08:43 AM
When you replaced all the o-rings and did your gun cleaning, did you replace the bolt spring? A weak bolt spring could cause bolt stick issues.

Inoculation
01-22-2004, 11:41 AM
yeah when i rebuilt the gun i replaced the spring and every o-ring in the gun. I have tried it with the barrel on and off, nothing seems to help. The gun is very simple so I'm runing out tof suspects, I am now focusing on the trigger and sear. The pin that the trigger pushes up on the valve (that should be vary light or should it have some tension on it???) mine seems to have tension on it, it won't slide freely very easily. I have even reversed the pin a few times to see if that makes a difference, but to no avail.

Miscue
01-22-2004, 01:20 PM
Did you adjust your trigger rod?

Inoculation
01-22-2004, 01:36 PM
Yeah I'm messing around with the rod length right now. But nothing yet has worked and I'm running out of air (again!) The bolt seems to just not reset itself, I can easilly reset it with a dowel, I mean I barely touch it and it resets.

Aegis
01-22-2004, 04:36 PM
Hmm. Had a similar issue with my son's emag, turned out the tip of the bolt was rubbing on the inside of the spring.

Haven't really worked with a L7 bolt so I am not sure what to say about the spacer length, except that if going longer didn't help, can you go shorter?

athomas
01-22-2004, 04:51 PM
Try a longer powertube spacer. Go to a .230 or .235 if you can.

Is the bolt a stock AGD bolt or an aftermarket bolt?

Inoculation
01-22-2004, 05:14 PM
The bolt is a stone stock AGD unit, the whole gun seems to be stock equipment. I have ordered a spacer kit so maybe that will work. I also spoke to an AGD tech on the phone and set my trigger/sear pin to the correct length of 50.68mm or 1.995in (yeah yeah! I'm into motocross so all my nice tools are calibrated in metric lol). If nothing else works i just may have to buy a new X-valve :D the wife will love me for that 1 I'm sure.

Tunaman
01-22-2004, 05:38 PM
Well if you get TOTALLY frustrated, I would be more than happy to fix that marker for you. Sounds like you have it down pat though. Let me know if you need any help with it.;)

Aegis
01-22-2004, 05:48 PM
What is the difference in cost between a LX kit and a spacer kit?

Inoculation
01-22-2004, 06:11 PM
Thank you for the offer tuna, as for the cost difference, the spacer kit is around $15 and it's $225 for the valve swap from AGD so there is quite a difference in the deterioration of my wallet lol. I gave it to a buddy of mine that is familiar with the L7 valves, if he can't figure it out I will be forced to take some drastic measures........

sniper1rfa
01-22-2004, 07:27 PM
an overlooked factor.

Check the ball detent of your barrel (shoot without the barrel, see if it works).

Sometimes, if you have a wire detent (nubbin), it will bend and catch the bolt.

Replace it with a plastic one if you havent already, just to be sure. :)

danheneise
01-22-2004, 07:28 PM
Originally posted by Inoculation
Yeah I'm messing around with the rod length right now.

there should be a space between the trigger and the tip of the rod of about a credit card's width, if it's touching the trigger i could see that as being a major problem. i can't remember the measurements off the top of my head for the rod though

Inoculation
01-23-2004, 07:10 PM
Thanks to all that left a response! I have corrected the problem. It seems that I had installed the o-rings and left 1 sitting on my bench lol. The small white one that goes in the valve under the on/off trigger pin. I placed it inside relubed it up and now it works like a champ!

Tunaman
01-23-2004, 07:21 PM
Originally posted by Inoculation
Thanks to all that left a response! I have corrected the problem. It seems that I had installed the o-rings and left 1 sitting on my bench lol. The small white one that goes in the valve under the on/off trigger pin. I placed it inside relubed it up and now it works like a champ! Just a tip for future reference...
When installing the on/off assy into the valve, put the white teflon oring ON the pin and then push the entire on/off assy into the valve. You will get a little "click" when it goes all the way in...and that click will insure it went in right.;)