Bad Dave
09-14-2001, 12:39 PM
I have just completed my Z grip warp interface and so i thought i would post a how to guide here. this might help euro users as the radioshack part nos previously posted are of no use to euro users.
Here is my gun.
<img src="http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/BadDave/Rim00038" width=600 height=400 border=0>
I have used Maplin electronics for parts www.maplin.co.uk here are the parts u will need:
2x 2.5mm mono jacks HF76H
1x 2.5mm mono chassis socket HF78K
1x standard switch with lever GW72P (or smaller FP42V)
some 7 gauge wire and appropriate heat shrink.
soldering iron
solder
pvc tape
now take the back off of ur warp feed change the jumper on the right hand block of jumpers to the top most position.
[..]
..
..
Assemble the components without solder to make sure it will work. attach the switch via com and NO to the chassis socket then plug one mono plug into the socket and one into the warp feed (connect via wire) now when u flick the switch the warp should turn. U can change how long it turns with the dwell setting ( the left hand block of jumpers)
if u are unsure about the wiring take a look at http://www.automags.org/ubb/Forum2/HTML/002482.html
there is a handy diagram there
Now you have to fit the switch inside the grip frame.
<img src="http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/BadDave/Rim00087" width=450 height=300 border=0>
this is a shot from above showing how the switch sits, drop it into the frame and see how it fits. make adjustments until when u put the body rail on above it the sear will contact the switch every time u pull the trigger ( u will hear a click. further adjustments may be required to avoid short stroking the gun. Tape the switch in pvc tape then solder the wires onto it and heatshrink the endings. now jam the switch into the frame, the pvc tape will hold it in tight.
U will need to make a hole between the upper tray and the lower tray, run the wires through this hole. now wire these two wires to the chassis socket.
<img src="http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/BadDave/Rim00085" width=450 height=300 border=0>
u will need to make a mount for the socket, in the photo i have used cardboard but i would recommend u cut out a template in card then cut the case of a cd and use this plastic instead, i have since done this and it is a lot neater. drill a hole in your grip panels to allow this.
<img src="http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/BadDave/Rim00077" width=600 height=400 border=0>
<img src="http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/BadDave/Rim00070" width=600 height=400 border=0>
these photos show the connection between the socket and the warp feed. u will need to wire the two mono plugs together, i suggest a 12" run of wire and heatshrink it all for durability.
That should be it gas the gun up and try it the warp should spin on every shot. The only prob u might have is that the switch inhibits sear movement in which case u will need to move the switch further back into the frame.
the warp may run too long so change the dwell setting.
Other cool stuff i have is a rechargable warp battery thanks to john sosta and an on/off between warp and battery thanks to me.
any questions mail bad.dave666@btinternet.com
thanks to:
alex neil for the photos and john and jackie sosta
Here is my gun.
<img src="http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/BadDave/Rim00038" width=600 height=400 border=0>
I have used Maplin electronics for parts www.maplin.co.uk here are the parts u will need:
2x 2.5mm mono jacks HF76H
1x 2.5mm mono chassis socket HF78K
1x standard switch with lever GW72P (or smaller FP42V)
some 7 gauge wire and appropriate heat shrink.
soldering iron
solder
pvc tape
now take the back off of ur warp feed change the jumper on the right hand block of jumpers to the top most position.
[..]
..
..
Assemble the components without solder to make sure it will work. attach the switch via com and NO to the chassis socket then plug one mono plug into the socket and one into the warp feed (connect via wire) now when u flick the switch the warp should turn. U can change how long it turns with the dwell setting ( the left hand block of jumpers)
if u are unsure about the wiring take a look at http://www.automags.org/ubb/Forum2/HTML/002482.html
there is a handy diagram there
Now you have to fit the switch inside the grip frame.
<img src="http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/BadDave/Rim00087" width=450 height=300 border=0>
this is a shot from above showing how the switch sits, drop it into the frame and see how it fits. make adjustments until when u put the body rail on above it the sear will contact the switch every time u pull the trigger ( u will hear a click. further adjustments may be required to avoid short stroking the gun. Tape the switch in pvc tape then solder the wires onto it and heatshrink the endings. now jam the switch into the frame, the pvc tape will hold it in tight.
U will need to make a hole between the upper tray and the lower tray, run the wires through this hole. now wire these two wires to the chassis socket.
<img src="http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/BadDave/Rim00085" width=450 height=300 border=0>
u will need to make a mount for the socket, in the photo i have used cardboard but i would recommend u cut out a template in card then cut the case of a cd and use this plastic instead, i have since done this and it is a lot neater. drill a hole in your grip panels to allow this.
<img src="http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/BadDave/Rim00077" width=600 height=400 border=0>
<img src="http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/BadDave/Rim00070" width=600 height=400 border=0>
these photos show the connection between the socket and the warp feed. u will need to wire the two mono plugs together, i suggest a 12" run of wire and heatshrink it all for durability.
That should be it gas the gun up and try it the warp should spin on every shot. The only prob u might have is that the switch inhibits sear movement in which case u will need to move the switch further back into the frame.
the warp may run too long so change the dwell setting.
Other cool stuff i have is a rechargable warp battery thanks to john sosta and an on/off between warp and battery thanks to me.
any questions mail bad.dave666@btinternet.com
thanks to:
alex neil for the photos and john and jackie sosta