Level 10 help needed

[JDean]

I just received the new X-Valve and LVL 10 bolt and have three questions:

1) How on earth to I unseat the carrier (power tube spacer) that is currently installed? What kind of tool is needed?

2) The LVL 10 (as you know) comes with a multitude of carriers with various marking delineating what they are.... but I don't have any means of discerning what these markings denote... can some explain to me the subtle differences and where I should start

3) This is related to the carriers, I think: the marker will fire with the regular spring, but when I change to the longer spring absolutely nothing happens when I pull the trigger.

Thanks in advance for you help!

Joel

[Dayspring]

1- Screw the field strip screw into the carrier. It'll grab the oring and come out with a tug.

2- A line means it's a full size. A dot means it's a half size.The more lines/dots, the bigger the carrier. The fewer, the smaller the carrier.

2 lines= 2.0
so 1 line + 1 dot = 1.5
1 dot = .5
no lines/no dots= 0

3- Turn up the velocity. The level 10 works on the principle of balancing forces. You need to give the velocity more force to overcome the spring tension.

[JDean]

Dayspring, thanks for the quick reply and info-

So, just to clarify... the .5, 1.0, etc refers to the inside diameter of the hole through which the bolt piston slides? Reason I ask is when I examined each of the carriers, despite the markings, they all appeared to be the same inside diameter.

I understand the balancing of forces aspect, and that being said, at what point do you know to change carriers in relation to the mainspring being used? I don't have any leakage, so should I adjust the velocity first in an attempt to get the longer spring to compress, or should I also change to the next larger carrier and adjust the velocity? How much surface tension should be on the bolt piston when it slides into the powertube, there's quite a bit of "grab" so to speak and it doesn't slide easily.

[Dayspring]

You're not changing the diameter where the bolt slides through, you're changing the diameter of where the oring sits. The smaller the carrier you get, the more snug the oring will sit up against the bolt stem.

Try putting an oring in the 0 carrier and in the 4.0. You'll see that the 0 takes more effort, that's cuz the area that the oring is sitting in is smaller than on the 4.0.

http://www.airgun.com/xmag/html/lvl10.html

As for the carrier- you want the loosest carrier that doesn't leak. I set all mine up to run on the mid spring. So, I run around a 1. Sometimes a 1.5 or a .5, depending on how worn in the oring gets.

Start with a 2 and work from there. The best way I found was to take an oring, put it in the carrier and turn the carrier upside down. Then dangle the bolt from the oring. It should wiggle and then fall off. If it doesn't move, it's too tight. If it falls off too easily, it's too loose.


Originally posted by JDean
Dayspring, thanks for the quick reply and info-

So, just to clarify... the .5, 1.0, etc refers to the inside diameter of the hole through which the bolt piston slides? Reason I ask is when I examined each of the carriers, despite the markings, they all appeared to be the same inside diameter.

I understand the balancing of forces aspect, and that being said, at what point do you know to change carriers in relation to the mainspring being used? I don't have any leakage, so should I adjust the velocity first in an attempt to get the longer spring to compress, or should I also change to the next larger carrier and adjust the velocity? How much surface tension should be on the bolt piston when it slides into the powertube, there's quite a bit of "grab" so to speak and it doesn't slide easily.

[JDean]

I appreciate the help, thank you!