New Ule Rt Pro Valve Doesnt Return

[Resist148]

Alright, I just got a RT PRO ULE w/ ule trigger pull kit.The main problem is the mag will stop firing sometimes either if i rip on it real fast or even if im slowly pulling. It cannot fire again until I push my finger against the tip of the valve (lvl 10 foamie) and push it back a little.I can return to firing and all is well after I do this. Please advise. Also chuffs an afuwl lot for dry firing not sure if this is normal.

[Resist148]

Does this have somthing to do with adjusting the spring/carriers ?

[i_baked_cookies]

bolt stick- you will HATE it

you want to adjust your level ten so that you use the loosest (biggest) carrier without it leaking down the barrel. then, once youve done that, put your ult in with 2 shims. make sure it fires at least 50 times fast without bolt stick. if you still have bolt stick, use a larger sping, use more oil, and add a shim to the level 10. thats how i fixed mine.


edit- oh yea, dont forget to use the SAME level ten oring when you are trying to find the loosest carrier

[BlackVCG]

As stated, use the o-ring that is already in your LX setup.

Take off the PT tip, pull out any shims that are already in there and use something to pull out the carrier. I like using the end of a ball end allen wrench.

Step up in the size of the carrier by half a size using the same white o-ring that was in the factory installed carrier. If it's a 1.0 carrier (one line - no dots) step up to the 1.5 carrier (one line - three dots).

Reinstall it and test it. Be sure to run some oil through the ASA before you gas it up and then dry fire it a bunch with the barrel off.

If it leaks, take out the carrier and try a new o-ring. Before you do that, with the o-ring in the carrier slide it onto the bolt stem and feel the amount of friction. Try a new o-ring and vary carrier sizes until you get one that is a bit tighter than how it was when it leaked.

[Resist148]

Yeah even though I beta tested the lvl 10 on my e-mag last summer you lost me. This stupid cd it comes with almost ruined my dvd-rw drive now that I got it to work on my server I got D is not a registered protocol. *edit* Alright now I got the cd workin how do I pull the carrier out of the power tube, I've tried a few things it seems tight? It has 3 shims on top I take it the o-ring is on the otherside.

[Resist148]

Is the red spring that comes with suppouse to look like *** ? Mine is all gritty and half the paint is missing very corse textured. Looks like a 5 year old was playing with it in a sandbox.

[mcveighr]

My springs aren't colored, but it shouldnt matter it its gritty.

Use a dental pick to get it out, it you have the snap-on 4-pack then use the one with two curves.

[Resist148]

I went through almost all the carriers and tried them with the 2 other springs as well as tried stock settings w/ ult trigger adjustment. Nothing still bolt stick. Thankfully
i_baked_cookies walked me through it even then we were stumped. It's pathetic it leaves the factory not working I sold my viking cause I had to send it back on an rma twice right after I got it and got it back broken. I decided to get a mag because my previous mags treated me good. Sigh.. If someone could help me real time over aim or icq that would be great, pm me if you could or leave ur icq/aim.. Mines aim : n00bified, icq:26528888. Thanks in advance.

[Resist148]

This is ridiculous missed out playin this weekend because of it.

[Resist148]

Alright I spent more time. I went from 1.5 (stock) to 2 w/ small spring and short spring. It had leaking and bolt stick. I went back to 1.5 put 3 drops of oil in and oiled the carrier o-ring again. I turned the velocity up from the unknown that I had it at from last nights testing and it seemed to work.

I dry fired 3 tank fulls at 2k psi. Then I went outside and went through 2 hoppers. I pulled out my field chrono and it went from 271 to 319 with brand new Gap on the stock barrel. The effiency sucked I went from 1700 to 300-400 or so off a hopper. 68/3k PMI pure energy. I stuck a swab to test the lvl 10 it did its thing but it seems so much harder now. I wouldn't put my finger down in there.

[Resist148]

Anyone got an expanded view of the x-valve btw ?

[Resist148]

on the end of the valve

A B C
===|||||||-||

A: Bolt
B: Whwere the carriers etc go down in

c: the end towards the velocity adjuster

I unscrewed the back part "C" and this brass object fell out that is groved and stepped. Does the groved part that has + on it face the back (The velocity adjustment part) ?

it looks like this

+
____
___
__
.


Stepped with the cross at the top. My velocity could be inconsitant on behalf of it not sitting correctly. I belive this is the only way for it to go in but wtf 40 +/-

[BlackVCG]

Expanded views of the RT Valve are on www.airgun.com in the tech section.

The brass piece will only go in one direction. If you put it in backwards, the two reg. halves won't fully tighten.

Make sure the side of it that contacts the reg. seat o-ring is clean and that the reg. seat o-ring itself is clean and the silver piece it sits on.

That will determine your velocity consistency. Also, the paint to barrel fit and quality of paint.

[PBCapo]

umm.. when i had bolt stick, the bolt was forward, and venting, but i also had the problem that your having, heres what i did:

-I unscrewed the back, removed the copper part your talking about, and then there was this little pin sticking out of the part of the valve that the bolt is connected to. Pull on this pin straight out, until a piece comes out. It's called the regulator pin assembly. it looks like the pin that u pulled on, with a bunch of mini black orings (i dont know if they actually are), and then at the opposite end of the pin, 3 more orings. SLATHER this thing in oil, and then pop it back in, put the copper part in place, and screw the back half back on