Adding an E-Mag valve to my classic.

[Thourne]

I'm purchasing an Emag valve to add to my classic p/f mag. I know it should work perfectly as a RT, but I was just wondering if there are any other little things I'll need to buy. Will I need a new sear/rod assembly (the RT one or will my AM/MM work fine), a new on/off pin, or anything else?

Thanks.

[Dayspring]

New on/off pin in the .750 length. You may want to replace the quad oring with a urethane one if you have one. (Some Emag valves have them, some don't.)

[SpdElemts]

Just wondering why would u need to replace the quad oring?

[sneakyhacker420]

quad o-ring is fine to leave in the valve

the e-mag comes with a .712" on/off pin

if that is causing runaway/full auto problems, you'll need to pick up a stock retro/x-valve pin which is .750"

or RobAGD sells an on/off pin kit which has the .735" and .745" pins if you really wanna get it down to borderline reactivity/runaway

[Thourne]

I'm getting into new territory here with the RT type valve. It's one of the few pb designs I have no experience with. Thanks for all the help guys, but I do need more.

Ok, so I'll probably need a new on/off pin - I expected that.

Can I still use my old AM/MM sear? They sell a RT sear assembly, but I'll be using an AM/MM rail.

What is a quad-oring? I understand none of this.

Thanks,

MH

[Enemy]

just think of the new vavle as if its a retro so the sear assembly and classic rail will have no bearing on anything the only thing is the on/off pin which the emags may very well be just as good as if you were to change it!!! i mean emags work as rts dont they!!! as for quad oring thats news to me so good luck..

[Joni]

The RT-sear is for the rt-rail. If you have a AM/MM-rail you can use your old sear.

[havoc531]

You may not need a new sear assembly as long as it is the hardened steel cadmium plated one. You can tell if it is one if it has a goldish tinge to it.

[Dave]

You'll be fine with the Emag valve. Thats what I have in my mag, and it runs beautifully, even with the stock emag sear pin...no crazy hacking or reactivity. Actually, once it gets 'warmed up'...its a pleasure to shoot.

Enjoy:)

-Dave

[Thourne]

Not that I don't trust Dave, but everyone else has told me I'd need the .750 pin, so how many people have had the experience that Dave has had? Is it common to be able to use the stock Emag on/off pin with no trouble or was Dave just really lucky?

Oh and Dave what do you mean by "warmed up"?

Thanks again for all the replies.

MH.

[Dayspring]

The stock Emag pin is too short. Especially if it's a 2 oring one. The thing WILL full auto on a classic rail.

.750 pin is what you need.

[Enemy]

you know what people do when they bring out a new product they test it...same with car tuners they install and test and if it doesnt work then they find the problem and fix it...so get the valve slap it on there and test it see if you like the trigger feel and see if any problems arise if nothing does and you like the feel then leave it...but if you dont like the feel or it doesnt work just right then replace the pin to .750... honestly testing and tuning is the only way to find what works so give it a shot!!!!

also the bolt will be safe because you should have plenty of play in your trigger to overcome the shorter pin so you wont have the same problem of marring bolts such as the electronic hyper frames do.

[Gadget]

The quad o-ring sits at the top of the on/off in some(most/all?) E-Mag valves, in place of the small, hard o-ring that normally sits there in other AGD valves.

It's easy to identify - they're black and not smooth but have a groove running around each face. Apparently they cause less friction on the on/off pin, so help prevent any problems with the solenoid actuated trigger pull in E-Mags.

They'll work fine in a manual mag too, or you can swap it for a standard 'white' o-ring.

When I moved my E-Mag valve to my backup manual mag I used a .750 pin and it worked fine.

[Thourne]

Well my Emag valve came in today, and Dave was right. The stock Emag on/off pin worked perfectly. It doesn't go into full auto or anything else. It just pushes my finger off so I can shoot a little faster. I did have to adjust the Level 10 kit I transfered over from my classic valve. I used the same carrier size but went from one shim to three. The bolt didn't even bounce off the finger when I had one shim. I though about using a heavier spring, but I remember people saying that that causes the mag to be an air hog. Hope this is all I have to do. Are there any other things I should do, other than going out and playing soon?

I'm getting ready to order a RT repair kit in a minute. Thanks for all the input and responses I've recieved on this thread.

MH.