Cons of ANO?

[FreakBaller12]

Are there con's for getting your gun annoed?
I've heard it messes up the tolerences and i don't know about that. I was wondering if i got my barrel annoed would it mess up the bore size? It's not a insert kit, just a dye ultralight barrel.

[nerobro]

Yes, anno changes the size of the peice of metal. So does stripping anno. It's an amount that the anno shop can tell you. So you can predict what the changes will be, for the most part.

When making ULE bodies, AGD knows how thick the anno will be, so they compensate for it. Same for the body rails. :-)

[FreakBaller12]

so if i got my emag reannoed, what problems be caused?
hhow big are the changes?

[Cryer]

I talked to Tunaman and he said that in most cases, if the anno job is done right, you wont notice any ill effects.

[FreakBaller12]

what abotu the barrel bore size, how will that change, or not at all?

[FutureMagOwner]

last i checked the annoing adding and subtracting is in increments smaller than what bore size is measured with so it should be a problem (and if it does increase/decrease it would be like by 1 unit at most)

[MicroMiniMe]

Originally posted by NeoMoses
Type of anodizing: You're wanting to do Type II anodizing, which allows coloring and is fairly hard. This type of layer can take color well when as thin as 0.0002" but will not be as abrasion resistant as a good 0.0008"-0.001" thick layer.

So the absolute most is changing a barrel from .689 to .690 or something. Thats even without accounting for the ano stripped off.

[NeoMoses]

Not exactly true MicroMiniMe. Let's take a look at a couple of scenarios.

Case 1: The barrel currently has 0.0002" of anodized layer, and the current ID is 0.6890." You first must strip off the old anodized layer, leaving the barrel ID at 0.6894." You then re-anodize the barrel with a 0.0002" layer. In type II anodizing, generally 2/3 of the anodized layer is built up and 1/3 is below the original surface. So, your new ID is about 0.6891"... not too much of a change, really.

Case 2: The barrel currently has 0.002" (typically called a 'Hardcoat' anodize) of anodized layer, current ID is 0.6890." Stripping the barrel leaves an ID of 0.6930." The new anodized layer is Type II, 0.0002" thick, leaving a barrel ID of about 0.6927." (at least 1 size larger for a freak insert)

Case 3: Barrel currently has 0.0002" anodized layer. Re-anodized with 0.002" layer. Old ID = 0.6890 New ID ~0.6867."

Basically, it is possible to change the dimensions on a barrel by re-anodizing it. Also, I've seen very large differences in the anodizes on PB guns, (all of the above numbers are realistic) even from AGD. If you really want to have the barrel re-anodized, take it to a good anodizer who can accurately measure the coating thickness before stripping and can accurately control all of the parameters necessary to keep the ID about the same size after re-anodizing. Warning: this won't be cheap. It'll probably be cheaper to buy a new barrel.

[KillerOnion]

The major problem with getting an expensive anno job on your gun is making it more attractive to thieves, a little more expensive to resolve than a barrel mismatch.

[SuiciDal Sn Y p ER]

i wouldn't recommend anodizing a emag or a xmag since there is a steel metal ring in the gun that if that gets damaged you're pretty much screwed.

[FutureMagOwner]

thats why they remove the ring before anodizing the gun ;)

[SuiciDal Sn Y p ER]

it's a big pain in the behind to remove the ring :)

[FutureMagOwner]

have someone else do it for you like tunaman, thats what i did :D

[SuiciDal Sn Y p ER]

hmm how much does he charge?

[FutureMagOwner]

i forget but for like complete disassembly of my gun (including the frame and stuff, when it came back to him he also flashed the board to 3.2 since it just came out) and shipping it to ano was like 40 bucks or something like that but you'd have to pm him about it well worth it imho

[GoblinGreen]

I knew I read somewhere you have to remove the Ring off the Xmag before you can re-anodize it. I have organised to get my Euro/std xmag redone and I need to get that ring off.

If you remove the breach off an Xmag and check where the bolt tip just sticks through. I need to remove that steel ring before I can get this done. Please whats the trick cause the ring looks threaded but it aint budging. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated and sending my Xmag to tunaman is not an option.

[Beemer]

http://www.deadlywind.com/tech/ring_clip/index.html

Peace out

____________

http://home.comcast.net/~beemerone/AoIL.gif

[GoblinGreen]

thanks for the quick reply. On the Xmag it kinda looks different just want to make sure we are on the same page

http://www.havoc-online.com/11699.html

If you go down to 5. Adjusting the A.C.E. (Xmag)
check out the picture of his Xmag with the breach removed. There is a pice of metal where the bolt is removed. Is that the same ring/pin as the deadly wind link

Cause mine on the Euro Xmag looks threaded sorta :tard: and wont budge, I think that link may apply for the Emag body but Im not sure about the Xmag body.




http://www.deadlywind.com/tech/ring_clip/index.html

Peace out

____________

http://home.comcast.net/~beemerone/AoIL.gif

[Beemer]

Ya same page.

I thought it was the same on an X but I guess not. I never payed any attention. I looked at my X and it looks like it might be pressed in. I dont see a break on the clip part on my X
or like you said its threaded.

[GoblinGreen]

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=189926&highlight=anodize

I think this post sums it all up! Im pretty stuffed re-anodizing my Euro Xmag.

Think its time to put it back together and leave it as the Ugly Silver Xmag which it is! :mad:
hmmmm dallara/karta body hmmmmmm thats an option

thanks again Beemer

[Loguzzzzzz]

Send the body to either Tunaman or AGD. The body has to be heated up to 700 degrees and then the insert can be screwed out. My guess is that it will also have to be heated to re-install the insert.

I am planning to have my X mag body re-annno'd so I did a little research a while ago. I don't know what Tunaman will charge but he is very fair and reasonable, I can't see it costing very much at all. He only charged me $75 to soldier two new switches on my emag board and flash v3.2 on it. I believe that also included the return shipping. Drop him an email at tunaman5@comcast.net. He will help you out.

:cheers:

[CoolHand]

A+ Ano can remove the ring, ano the body, and reinstall it without buggering up the marker.

I've had two markers done by them, and they both came back in wonderful shape.

BTW, it is pressed/screwed into place and staked with a setscrew. You're not getting it out without resorting to drastic measures.

[GoblinGreen]

Im not a fan of sending my markers overseas for anything. thanks though.

Im thinking along the lines of just getting the marker half anodised so I will get the front of the marker, breach, battery and half the trigger guard in black, then leave the back half in silver.

Glad I didnt just send it in to get anodized I would have really balls up the body.

Thanks all for the info :cool:

[CoolHand]

Ah, didn't see you were from South Africa.

Yeah, you're pretty much screwed then.

Sorry.

[MicroMiniMe]

Coolhand, is the steel washer the same as the ULE/Slugs use for the X/Euro? Could he have it anodized with it in there and let the acid bath eat the ring up and just replace it after the ano is done from the AGD store?

[CoolHand]

Coolhand, is the steel washer the same as the ULE/Slugs use for the X/Euro? Could he have it anodized with it in there and let the acid bath eat the ring up and just replace it after the ano is done from the AGD store?

Nope, it's a totally different kind of ring, more like a bottle cap shape.

if you anodize it out, it might bugger up the body too, you never know.

Didn't I do a MicroMag for you that had the ring dissolved out of it? (stupid anodizers :mad: ).

If you will recall, that one we got lucky on and it didn't hurt the body, but in talking with Jay while he fixed it, it very well could have.

i've anodized taps and drill bits out of parts before, and sometimes the part comes out unscathed, sans drill bit, but sometimes it comes out with some drill bit left, and a jagged doughnut shaped hole around it, meaning that some alum and some steel had been removed.

It's a risky deal. Depends on how badly you want a new ano job, I guess.

And no, you cannot just anodize half the body. It's an all or nothing kind of thing.

[A-Tach-One]

GoblinGreen, actually the ring in the XMag body is NOT pressed in, it is threaded as Loguzzzzzz stated. And the set screw on the underside of the body is to prevent the ring from unthreading itself. I own Havoc's XMag now and noticed the ring backed itself out 2 1/2 turns upon arrival. :tard: I can take a pic of of the threads if you like. Personally I wouldn't tork on it, I would send it to someone who knows how to remove these babies without damage. Oh, just so you know I also have a Euro XMag and it too has a threaded body ring. :cheers:

Here is a pic of the threading. I partially unscrewed the ring for you to see. Normally that body bushing should sit flush with the body.

http://www.jayloo.com/files/pics/36000/Bodybushing_tn.JPG (http://www.jayloo.com/photo_gallery/show_pic.html?pIMAGE_ID=36492)

[Beemer]

Stupid question. The threaded piece still has to come out dont it?

[A-Tach-One]

Stupid question. The threaded piece still has to come out dont it?
For anno? Yes, that is what needs to come out before anno. :cheers:

[Beemer]

Then that is the piece that is pressed in correct?

[A-Tach-One]

ok, the body bushing is one piece and it is threaded into the body. In the pic I took I unthreaded it part way out just to show the threads. I maybe confused by what your asking sorry. :cheers:

[Beemer]

Sorry my bad. I was confused. I see now. :argh:

[GoblinGreen]

Im gonna chat to the guy who is going to ano the marker for me. I will see what he says, maybe he has a couple Ideas to work around it. If I get it done I will post the pics up.
Thanks for all the info.