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RoadDawg
02-19-2004, 02:49 PM
K I have a pre 1000 SS emag valve. I'm replacing it with a Xvalve what exactly do I need to do? I originally had switched the on/off pin only and it worked for quite sometime. Now at the AO CA meet tato told me I needed a different on/off pin and a quad oring instead of the dual oring I had been using. I try that now and it multifires. I go back to the dual oring sytle and it multi fires. What is going on here?
RoadDawg
02-19-2004, 07:04 PM
K I tried the dual oring instead of the quad and it works for a few shots and then I try hammering on it and the sear doesn't reset. What could be the deal? The on/off pin is nice and lubed as it moves back and forth and is actually preventing the valve from coming out the back when I de-gas the marker. Any help would be appreciated.
rmhawk
02-20-2004, 01:45 PM
I am not sure if this will help. But it is some advice. I have an Emag and i think it is pre 1000. I got an x valve and slapped it in there and no matter what i did, switched quad rings, on/off pins, everything, the x valve did not work as good as the Emag valve. So you must think of it this way. Yes, the x valve looks great in an Emag, but if it does not work properly, what would you rather have? A good looking Emag that works alright, or would you have an alright looking Emag that kicks butt? Just a thought :D
RRfireblade
02-20-2004, 06:13 PM
There's no reason an X valve won't work in place of an R/T valve if it's set up properly.

You should have the quad in there for starters.You should have switched on/off pins assuming the previous one was correct.Make sure the plunger moves freely and has not been bent,even a tiny amount of bend may cause it to bind and not reset.Make sure that it's locked down and not able to spin on the threaded rod,that will change the overall plunger length,also not good.Some new x valves seem to require beak in on the on/off for some reason,every time it sticks,pull it and add oil and see if it gets better.
athomas
02-21-2004, 10:53 AM
Just take the entire on/off assembly from the original valve. That way you know everything that was working is now in the new valve.
rmhawk
02-21-2004, 12:59 PM
I swear that is what i did. I took the entire on/off out of the emag valve and put it in the x valve. Then i just tried orings and on/off pins. Maybe i just had a bad x valve. Whatever i did, it did not work. :confused:
RoadDawg
02-21-2004, 03:10 PM
Well Potatoboy told me I had the wrong size on/off pin due to my valve being a pre 1000 or 500 valve. I guess somewhere along the line they changed something. It works from time to time for 10 or so shots. Anyways. I've got 3 different on/off pins (one that came with Xvalve, Emag valve and the on tato gave me. The sizes I have no clue as they don't have papers to identify. I do know that the one tato gave me is in the Xvalve and the one that was in the Emag valve is back in the emag valve. Anyways. I think I'm gonna end up sending this to blackVCG to give her a tune up and make sure nothing is wrong mechanically and maybe he could fix it.
athomas
02-21-2004, 04:19 PM
You may have a .725" pin instead of a .712" pin. The older emag valves had the longer .725" pins.
Duke of Lawnchair
02-21-2004, 04:27 PM
Nick,

The pin lengths are as follows:
0.725" = Emag (old?)
0.712" = Emag
0.765" = RT Pro
0.750" = RT

Do you have a micrometer?

Make sure you have a 0.712" pin in conjunction with the quad oring.

Jim

NUTZ!!!!! athomas beat me to the punch.
RoadDawg
02-21-2004, 05:14 PM
Originally posted by Duke of Lawnchair
Nick,

The pin lengths are as follows:
0.725" = Emag (old?)
0.712" = Emag
0.765" = RT Pro
0.750" = RT

Do you have a micrometer?

Make sure you have a 0.712" pin in conjunction with the quad oring.

Jim

NUTZ!!!!! athomas beat me to the punch.

Negative on the micrometer Jim. I'll have to check and see if I can see the difference by eye.