Hyperframe settings for the “new” board

[hitech]

I talked to Dennis Ashley at Centerflag today and now have what the service mode settings for the “new” board actually do. I was concerned that I didn’t have the correct information. I didn’t. This new information will probably change my recommended settings, but I have to test them first. Note that all of this is subject to change after I test the new settings.

Also, I don’t know if I convinced Dennis to change their recommended settings, but he did agree that it is better to start with higher settings to get everything working. Once it works you can try and tune the settings to get more battery life. Personally I just prefer to use the plainview 9.6 volt NiMh battery and not worry about battery life. :D

Okay, here is what the settings really mean:

15 - 05. This is the Initial Setting (default is 05). This is the amount of “energy” send to the solenoid. The correct setting should be between 5 and 10.

Fd - 20. This is the Fire Delay. This is the "frequency" (in micro-seconds) of the pulsed current used to drive the solenoid. Higher numbers equal more “power” to the solenoid. They also equal less battery life.

Fn - 50. This is the Fire Number. This is the solenoid dwell time (in milli-seconds). The larger the number the longer the solenoid holds the sear back.

These will PROBABLY be my new recommended settings:

15 - 10. Start at 10. When everything works perfectly you can try lower numbers. Lower numbers will increase battery life. This should be the last setting you try to tune.

Fd – 50. This should be strong enough to move the sear but small enough to maintain battery life. Centerflag recommends 20, which might be enough. If you want to try tuning the settings, start with this number.

Fn - 30. This should give a dwell time of 30 ms. If this doesn’t work, try 40. Since the solenoid is much smaller than the emags it may need more time to get moving.

[Meph]

I'd doubt it would need any special moving buffer, at least not that large. Considering that these things are shooting 20bps in those dang Dragun TES markers. But of course the dwell for those are quite short, I'd bet maximum of 6ms dwell time due to the cycle speed of a blowback. If I remember properly which I'm sure I don't, a blowback (like Spyder) takes about 6ms to go forward, open valve, and return.

But then again as with the Hyperframe you do need that larger dwell to keep the sear from rubbing against the bolt when the bolt returns. I'd imagine the 25-30ms dwell would be plenty.


I'm just going to have to buy one and test it out myself as well. Hope I see Centerflag soon (aka Skyball).

[Big'n slo]

hitech,

Have you had a chance to play with a ULT'd hyperframe yet?

Reason I ask is mine will multiy fire every pull unless my settings are under:
15-5 FN 10 FD 10

Even increasing the dwell time causes the gun to go crazy.

[Digits]

Originally posted by Big'n slo
hitech,

Have you had a chance to play with a ULT'd hyperframe yet?

Reason I ask is mine will multiy fire every pull unless my settings are under:
15-5 FN 10 FD 10

Even increasing the dwell time causes the gun to go crazy.

mine doesn't do that and it's ult'd..

and my settings are way up there.. The only thing mine does is if you get shooting to fast on it the lvl 10 acts as if its bouncing off a ball and only goes about half way forward.. Wierd stuff

[Big'n slo]

Originally posted by Digits


mine doesn't do that and it's ult'd..

and my settings are way up there.. The only thing mine does is if you get shooting to fast on it the lvl 10 acts as if its bouncing off a ball and only goes about half way forward.. Wierd stuff

I'm thinking it has to be some other problem, I switched out the ULT for an Emag on/of and it did the same thing. Changed the sear, adjusted the solenoid, changed the battery, yadda yadda yadda...
I think I dug the hole deeper. :(


Anyways,
Digits, hows that adapter workin out for ya?

[Digits]

Originally posted by Big'n slo


I'm thinking it has to be some other problem, I switched out the ULT for an Emag on/of and it did the same thing. Changed the sear, adjusted the solenoid, changed the battery, yadda yadda yadda...
I think I dug the hole deeper. :(


Anyways,
Digits, hows that adapter workin out for ya?

I don't have the battery housing to hook it up.. But other then that, it's doing good :) lol.. I'm tempted to get the bottom half of an e-mag, as soon as 4.0 is released.. :D

[slushee]

I just got mine going using the settings that are way up there and mine does THE EXACT SAME THING ...

Maby we could bribe Hitech into finding out why this is .. i'm gonna try lowing my settings though and see what happens..

** edit ** .. could it be that the hyperframe does not give the bolt enough time to fire and when the sear pushes up and touches the bolt (ready to reset), it puts enough friction on the bolt to make it stop moving forward and just vent all the air? Just a theory...




Originally posted by Digits


mine doesn't do that and it's ult'd..

and my settings are way up there.. The only thing mine does is if you get shooting to fast on it the lvl 10 acts as if its bouncing off a ball and only goes about half way forward.. Wierd stuff

[hitech]

I have even seen a ULT. I have no experence with them and cannot offer and advice. I'm hoping to try the new settins on my old Hyperframe (it's my brothers now) and see if it still works well. May even try to see how low the numbers can go and still fire at 20bps fullauto. ;)

I hope the proper explaination of what the settings actually do has helped. :D

[Digits]

Originally posted by slushee
I just got mine going using the settings that are way up there and mine does THE EXACT SAME THING ...

Maby we could bribe Hitech into finding out why this is .. i'm gonna try lowing my settings though and see what happens..

** edit ** .. could it be that the hyperframe does not give the bolt enough time to fire and when the sear pushes up and touches the bolt (ready to reset), it puts enough friction on the bolt to make it stop moving forward and just vent all the air? Just a theory...





Could be..

When I kept on cranking the Fd up I found a number that was pretty good.. Somewhere ni the 60's I think.. But once you get above about 14-15 bps then it does it.. When I get more air i'll try fiddiling around with the settings, it should be easier now that i know what they mean :D

[Mighty Mike]

Great thread Hitech. I'm having problems w/ my new 20bps board. My gun stops firing after I get off 5-6 fast shots. I need to tinker w/ the settings and see what's happening.

[Digits]

Originally posted by Mighty Mike
Great thread Hitech. I'm having problems w/ my new 20bps board. My gun stops firing after I get off 5-6 fast shots. I need to tinker w/ the settings and see what's happening.

mine did that at one time.. Try moving your sear around.. Thats all I did and it fixed it

[slushee]

Hitech .. i just used your new numbers

15 - 10.
Fd – 50.
Fn - 30.

and the weirdness I had with my lvl 10 going heywire if I fired too fast vanished. Numbers seems to shoot very well in a ULT Hyperframe RTPro Classic Body..

[hitech]

Originally posted by slushee
Hitech .. i just used your new numbers...and the weirdness I had with my lvl 10 going heywire if I fired too fast vanished.

Glad to hear it. It always helps when you have accurate information. ;) Anyone else?

[Digits]

I tried those settings.. Still skipped and stuch.. So I fiddled a bit.. And ended up with an Fd in the 70's and an Fn in the 30's-40's and she shot like a dream..

I think the Fd may need to be high for people not running Nihm type recharable batteries.. Just a thought I guess

[vf-xx]

I don't have a hyperframe but I remember asking around for the cycling time of the mag valve for another project. IIRC it is 20ms.

Just an FYI