Foregrip Distance - 68 vs RT

[Mrmacdude]

Im used to a y-grip/foregrip combo. WIth the RT grip moved forward like it is, how farther is that? Spyder-length or cocker-length?

[Mrmacdude]

i refuse to beleive that no one knows the answer to this

[soccer4minimags]

I wouldn't compare them that way. It really isn't bad, yes there is a difference but you won't really notice it, if anything you'll probably like the way the rt pro rail/grip location feels better. There are also ways to change it from that stock configuration you see.
edit: To clarify more, no its nowhere near what a spyder is like in distance betweenthe two. And for the cocker, I would'nt really call that far apart, that actually is pretty close to a classic mags rail and foregrip distance.

[tyrion2323]

Logic can mill your mag's body rail for very cheap (I think it's somewhere around $15) to accept the closer foregrip.

[sneakyhacker420]

its an inch or two further foward, MUCH more comfortable IMO, just gives you more space for your hand, and you can keep the gun steadier

[cphilip]

Yes... I agree. The longer rail of the RT pro allows you to put it in a better more comfortable position. And if you get Rogue or Nicad to mill a slot in it then you can do whatever you want. Even go back so fars to hit the Trigger guard if you want. Thats as close as either can get. But your going to find you like it better a bit more forward than the Classic rail can put you. With the classic rail your choices are limited to what it can move forward too before it runs out of rail. With the RT rail your option is a bit more forward if you like. And most people prefer it a bit more forward. Not as far forward as the bracket takes it but more forward than you would think.

[Mrmacdude]

Am i correct in assuming you can remove the bracket and mount the foregrip where the bracket mounts to the rail?

[cphilip]

I am not certain I am following you on that. Let me try and explain...

Take the bracket off the rail. The bracket is mounted to the sides of the rail with three screws on each side fo the rail. Those no longer are used.

The foregrip was attached to the bracket with two screws that go through two holes in the bracket and thread into the top of the foregrip. Remove them and toss the bracket and reuse the screws later...

Then mill a slot through the inside of the rail... all the way through the bottom of the rail and forward and backward. A long slot that runs about an inch and a half from near the front of the rail and then back to near where the grip frame screw comes into the rail. Leaving enough on each end unmilled to keep it strong. And then counter sink the slot so the heads of the screws clear but still catch on the lip of the slot. So its really two slots on top of another. One deaper and all the way through the rail and then one a bit wider and not all the way through. Sort of a step up so the screw heads can sink low enough to not get in the way of the body but still catch on the lip of the completely through slot.

And now the two screws from the Foregrip pass through that slot in the rail and then screw into the foregrip. The slot is as wide as the screw threads but not as wide as the Screws head is. So the two screws now tighten against the inside of the rail, counter sunk so as not to hit the body when its put on, and then hold the Foregrip right against the bottom of the rail.

And by losening the two screws you can slide the forgrip, forward or backwards along the length of the new slot in the rail, to where you want it.

Does that make sense? Thats what they do. Its no longer using the bracket at all. The forgrip is now attached directly to the bottom of the rail.

[sneakyhacker420]

if you want to mount the foregrip directly to the rail, it will work

just take off the bracket and punch out the hole for the foregrip, you'll have to tighten this screw down nice an good so that the foregrip won't turn, but its an alternative to having rogue mill the counter-bored slot like cphil just explained