Best way to lighten an E-Mag?

[1stdeadeye]

RickEZ10 has begun a project to lighten his E-Mag!

He already relpaced the body with a ULE. What should he do next?

Replace the valve with an X-Valve..
Replace the rail, but with what..
Anything else he can do?

[gibby]

Have the rail milled out...I know RogueFactor did mine when I first got my Emag. Nicad milled mine when I got my Karta set up. Or buy the AGD ULE rail? Once all that's done, ULE body, Xvalve, milled rail, he should have a pretty light set up.

[Skoad]

replace valve


if you do the rail and grip you won't even notice

[1stdeadeye]

Originally posted by gibby
Have the rail milled out...I know RogueFactor did mine when I first got my Emag. Nicad milled mine when I got my Karta set up. Or buy the AGD ULE rail? Once all that's done, ULE body, Xvalve, milled rail, he should have a pretty light set up.

What is the ULE rail? He already has the ULE body.

[punkncat]

Take out the battery and always use it on manual mode.

[jtoothman25]

Have BlackVCG mill the rail, he did an amazing job on mine. He does it pretty cheap too for all the work that it takes.

[1stdeadeye]

Originally posted by punkncat
Take out the battery and always use it on manual mode.

That kind of defeats the point of the E-Mag doesn't it.:rolleyes:

[Cryer]

Talk to Tunaman, Roguefactor, or Nicad about ULE Emag rails.
Theyre available raw from the AGD store, but those guys can get you an annoed one. Basically, it takes all the meat out of the inside of the rail thats not stucturally important. Its like half the weight. The rail and the body are the 2 most drastic weight changes you can make.

Then look into an Xvalve (if he hasnt already), they are significantly lighter than the SS valves.

[1stdeadeye]

Originally posted by Cryer
Talk to Tunaman, Roguefactor, or Nicad about ULE Emag rails.
Theyre available raw from the AGD store, but those guys can get you an annoed one. Basically, it takes all the meat out of the inside of the rail thats not stucturally important. Its like half the weight. The rail and the body are the 2 most drastic weight changes you can make.

Then look into an Xvalve (if he hasnt already), they are significantly lighter than the SS valves.

I figured the rail would be a big change, but how much of a difference is there between a regular and X valve?

[Cryer]

I never really weighed mine, but it is considerable...

I think I heard someone say that the Xvalve is just over half the weight of the Stainless RT/Emag valve... Not sure, tho.

If he's gonna do that, it would be cheaper (it may take longer, but saves $) to trade some kid his SS emag valve for a classic valve + $, then turn around and send in the classic valve + 225 for the Xvalve. (Whichever valve you trade in, you only get $100 off the 325 price tag)

[gibby]

Originally posted by 1stdeadeye


I figured the rail would be a big change, but how much of a difference is there between a regular and X valve?
3 oz.

[jtoothman25]

Instead of BUYING a new rail, you can have yours milled out. You dont have to buy a new rail, you dont have to pay for any anno'ing, and it is unseen inside the marker. I have mine done, as well as everyone on my team.

[ZAust]

check out the ule frames and milled battery packs. pair that with a ule body, rail, and xvalve, and you have the lightest emag money can buy.

[Skoad]

if you hold a stainless valve then a x valve, theres like a 3 lbs difference it seems.



the rails are marginal.


if you want the most weight lost with one item, its the valve.

[chizle97]

also you could get the cnc battery pack, im not sure if there is any weight difference but it sure will look sweet. Also i forgett who but someone on AO said they could mill the grip frame to be a ule grip frame. ?? i dunno mabey and Stiffi barrel. Also to reduce weight you could drill a whole lot of smaller than a paintball sized holes in you hopper to get rid of excesss plastic?? just a thaught. Thats wht we did with our robot to make the weight. :D

[GT]

buy an AGD ULE rail, the Z lock area is milled. Its dam hard to do that by hand, although BradAGD can. Then have the "wings" removed. that combined with an Xvalve will be lighter than your X, :eek:

[Ken]

just food for thought, if you drill the plastic, it will weaken it's integrity.

[gibby]

OR!!! You can have him sell off the ULE body, send the stock rail to Nicad and pick up a Karta with a little cash in addition to the funds from the sale. With that rail you send him, that's $100 off...not only will you get a light set up, you can also get your other parts re-ano'd to match and increase the overall value of his emag.:D

[pointm@n]

Definitely get the emag rail milled out and the wings shaved. This seriously lightens up the rail. Roguefactor did mine and he did a great job. BlackVCG ULE mills the rail, but does not shave the wings.

The CNC battery pack is negligible in weight compared to the stock one.

Look into getting a stiffi barrel. I have a 14" one and supposedly it weighs around 53 GRAMS.

Use macroline instead of stainless steel lines.

To me the 3oz difference of the Xvalve is not worth the premium cost, but that's just me...

Use a duckbill asa instead of a drop forward or a rail asa.

[gibby]

Originally posted by chizle97
...Also to reduce weight you could drill a whole lot of smaller than a paintball sized holes in you hopper to get rid of excesss plastic?? just a thaught. Thats wht we did with our robot to make the weight. :D
WHAT?!?! So your hopper has a bunch of tiny little holes?! So what happens if you get hit on the hopper..now you got a mess going through inside?! If you really wanted to save weight on the hopper, get the Xpower battery mod thing. Power up the hopper via emag battery.

[f3rr3+]

youll need a hacksaw and a blindfold equip both and start hackin!

[Fixion]

Originally posted by 1stdeadeye
RickEZ10 has begun a project to lighten his E-Mag!

He already relpaced the body with a ULE. What should he do next?

Replace the valve with an X-Valve..
Replace the rail, but with what..
Anything else he can do?

1. Cut it in half. Throw half away.
2. You don't need a valve...
3. Send the valve to me
4. Take the bat out, use mech mode...
5. Tie a few ballons to it, then again, more like 50.

;)

[logamus]

trade the emag for a shocker.

[1stdeadeye]

Originally posted by logamus
trade the emag for a shocker.

Booooo!

*throws rotten fruit at logamus*

[wyn1370]

Originally posted by logamus
trade the emag for a shocker.
or a timmy

[hitech]

If I remember correctly, BOTH the ULE rail and the XValve each are approx. 3 oz. lighter.

[Big'n slo]

Why's he think its too heavy all of a sudden? What'd he do bump his head or somethin? :D ;) :p

Next upgrade!
http://store4.yimg.com/I/saferacer_1783_3252419

[nippinout]

Cut down the front of a ULE body so you only have threads and no extra meat up front.

Cut down the rear of the ULE body so there's enough just to hold the valve.

[NJPaint]

Originally posted by nippinout
Cut down the front of a ULE body so you only have threads and no extra meat up front.

Cut down the rear of the ULE body so there's enough just to hold the valve.

Do not do this....


The difference between Emag valve --> X-valve is 3 oz. You are going from Stainless Steel to Aluminum, it is very noticable the difference. The rails you are merely taking a chunk of aluminum out, leaving an alumninum frame. Gutting the frame I think also takes off a few oz's. Individually they take off only a few oz's, but if you replace all the parts you end up with a very light marker.

[1stdeadeye]

Originally posted by Big'n slo
Why's he think its too heavy all of a sudden? What'd he do bump his head or somethin? :D ;) :p

Next upgrade!
http://store4.yimg.com/I/saferacer_1783_3252419

LOL!

The stitches are out and he looks great!

I just ordered the valve and rail from Tuna! I'll post pictures when the project is done!



BTW...logamus is another user here on AO. Read the whole thread Branden Minimag