CaliMagFan
03-15-2004, 02:03 AM
Well I've had my ULE Custom for a few months now. I've pretty much lived though break-in, tuning, troubleshooting, and use... So, here are some notes for the answer seeker. I invite ALL AO folks to add to this info with their own replies/questions.
First off, for reference, my rig is as follows: X-valve, ULT, ULE vert body, blade Intelliframe, fixed output HPA tank.
Don't have any paint in the maker while you do this cause A) you don't need it, and B) strange things can and will happen when you tinker with markers, its best not to shoot anything out. I like to just have my barrel on with the barrel sock/condom on and anchored around the feedneck (noise reduction and getting hit with air blasts is bad for eyes/ears).
:::Out of the box my marker shoots great, but many times it goes reactive (bouncy trigger like Z-Man's rapid fire), even with ULT kit installed.
---Before the marker breaks in, even the ULT is subject to reacitvity bounce. After a case or two it won't do this even with 4 or more ULT shims.
:::Out of the box I am breaking paint even though my X Valve has the LX bolt.
---The ULE customs from AGD are shipped with the shortest (stock) spring, and are thus still able to chop a few at higher fire rates. You can change to the next spring with the LX kit that was shipped with the marker.
:::I installed the middle (red) or longest (raw) spring to my LX bolt, aired up my marker and nothing happens. What happned? Where do I know to turn my velocity?
---Don't up your velocity from where it was with the shortest spring right away. First, gas the marker up and let it do nothing, then get your allen wrench for the velocity adjuster. Now just turn the velocity up in 1/8 to 1/4 turn increments untill the tigger sticks out and you hear the bolt lock up. Your marker may fire once when you get the velocity up enough, this is ok, it's just something that RT/X Valves do.
:::My marker is going nuts! Sometimes I will shoot and then cannot shoot again! I have pressure on my trigger, but the bolt wont move. Upon examining the breach, the bolt seems to be in the right place, not "stuck" forward, but when i push the bolt back, it can be heard locking up with the sear. After pushing the bolt back, I can fire again. Sometimes I can fire fine for 20 shots or more, sometimes less before this happens again.
---The credit for this answer goes to DeerChaser, without whom, I might still be asking this question. The ULE bodies are made of lightweight aluminum, not as rigid as the steel bodies of the past. They are subject to torque from the two frame screws that hold the trigger frame and rail to the body/valve. This problem is created many times after the marker is torn all the way down for cleaning/maintenence and reassmbled. I suggest that you tighten the screw in the trigger area normally. Also use the allen wrench to tighten the field strip screw, thus equalizing the rate of torque that either screw is putting on the valve/body combo. You'll need to kinda play around with the tensions to find what is right. -thanks DeerChaser
:::The first shot I take many times makes a "chuff" sound and feeds a ball into the barrel, so my next shot is of 2 balls.
---Your velocity is slighty, just sligtly to low for your spring tension. When the LX bolt moves forward there are 2 forces acting on it: 1) Air from the valve pushing it forward, 2) The bolt spring pushing it back to the valve. When the velocity is low the forces on the bolt are nearly at equilibrium, thus, the resistance of the ball entering the bore of the barrel is enough to get it to degas and "chuff". It's a good thing though, that means the bolt it working correctly. Just make sure the velocity is enough to shoot the first (cold) shot reliably, and right to shoot the next balls under your field limit and never over 300FPS!!
:::How do I correctly chrono my RT/X valved marker?
---The first shot of an RT valve is colder than subsequent shots under rapid fire. The RT/X Valve rechages so fast it actually heats the air up that enters the chamber. So essentially air may enter the chamber at 450psi and be at 460psi at the time it is used to shoot the marker. This occurence is what causes the first shot to be slower. The procedure as outlined in your RT manual: Over the chrono, fire your first shot and hold the trigger. To fire the second shot your will release the trigger and quickly firea another ball. In words it looks like this: "Fire-hold------------release-fire-hold---------------release-fire-hold. " The second and 3rd "fire" represent viable chrono speeds to take on the field.
:::Help, I have just installed a new spring, changed carriers, or reassembled the marker and its going full auto. It wont even stop when I hold the trigger back.
---I'm not sure if it's RT/X related, or if it's more of a ULT thing, but its not a hard fix. Just get your velocity to teh point where you think it should be, then pull the trigger and let it shoot. You won't be shooting paint of course, but in a few seconds the full auto should stop. After it stop the trigger should be fine, 1 pull, 1 shot. If the full auto goes for more than 10 seconds or so without end, reffer to the "frame screw torque" question, check your on/off pin for correct length and the sear for excessive wear.
OK.... I know that was a long post, but I would have liked to have it when I got my new ULE custom, it's at least a guide. Some simple problems and solutions there, some more complex. All in all, I hope it can save at least one person a little headache. These markers are great and are very simple when you get the hang of it, but just like you felt when you gutted your first tippman or spyder, they can be intimidating at first glance.
Good Luck and Voice your replies, please.
-kyro
First off, for reference, my rig is as follows: X-valve, ULT, ULE vert body, blade Intelliframe, fixed output HPA tank.
Don't have any paint in the maker while you do this cause A) you don't need it, and B) strange things can and will happen when you tinker with markers, its best not to shoot anything out. I like to just have my barrel on with the barrel sock/condom on and anchored around the feedneck (noise reduction and getting hit with air blasts is bad for eyes/ears).
:::Out of the box my marker shoots great, but many times it goes reactive (bouncy trigger like Z-Man's rapid fire), even with ULT kit installed.
---Before the marker breaks in, even the ULT is subject to reacitvity bounce. After a case or two it won't do this even with 4 or more ULT shims.
:::Out of the box I am breaking paint even though my X Valve has the LX bolt.
---The ULE customs from AGD are shipped with the shortest (stock) spring, and are thus still able to chop a few at higher fire rates. You can change to the next spring with the LX kit that was shipped with the marker.
:::I installed the middle (red) or longest (raw) spring to my LX bolt, aired up my marker and nothing happens. What happned? Where do I know to turn my velocity?
---Don't up your velocity from where it was with the shortest spring right away. First, gas the marker up and let it do nothing, then get your allen wrench for the velocity adjuster. Now just turn the velocity up in 1/8 to 1/4 turn increments untill the tigger sticks out and you hear the bolt lock up. Your marker may fire once when you get the velocity up enough, this is ok, it's just something that RT/X Valves do.
:::My marker is going nuts! Sometimes I will shoot and then cannot shoot again! I have pressure on my trigger, but the bolt wont move. Upon examining the breach, the bolt seems to be in the right place, not "stuck" forward, but when i push the bolt back, it can be heard locking up with the sear. After pushing the bolt back, I can fire again. Sometimes I can fire fine for 20 shots or more, sometimes less before this happens again.
---The credit for this answer goes to DeerChaser, without whom, I might still be asking this question. The ULE bodies are made of lightweight aluminum, not as rigid as the steel bodies of the past. They are subject to torque from the two frame screws that hold the trigger frame and rail to the body/valve. This problem is created many times after the marker is torn all the way down for cleaning/maintenence and reassmbled. I suggest that you tighten the screw in the trigger area normally. Also use the allen wrench to tighten the field strip screw, thus equalizing the rate of torque that either screw is putting on the valve/body combo. You'll need to kinda play around with the tensions to find what is right. -thanks DeerChaser
:::The first shot I take many times makes a "chuff" sound and feeds a ball into the barrel, so my next shot is of 2 balls.
---Your velocity is slighty, just sligtly to low for your spring tension. When the LX bolt moves forward there are 2 forces acting on it: 1) Air from the valve pushing it forward, 2) The bolt spring pushing it back to the valve. When the velocity is low the forces on the bolt are nearly at equilibrium, thus, the resistance of the ball entering the bore of the barrel is enough to get it to degas and "chuff". It's a good thing though, that means the bolt it working correctly. Just make sure the velocity is enough to shoot the first (cold) shot reliably, and right to shoot the next balls under your field limit and never over 300FPS!!
:::How do I correctly chrono my RT/X valved marker?
---The first shot of an RT valve is colder than subsequent shots under rapid fire. The RT/X Valve rechages so fast it actually heats the air up that enters the chamber. So essentially air may enter the chamber at 450psi and be at 460psi at the time it is used to shoot the marker. This occurence is what causes the first shot to be slower. The procedure as outlined in your RT manual: Over the chrono, fire your first shot and hold the trigger. To fire the second shot your will release the trigger and quickly firea another ball. In words it looks like this: "Fire-hold------------release-fire-hold---------------release-fire-hold. " The second and 3rd "fire" represent viable chrono speeds to take on the field.
:::Help, I have just installed a new spring, changed carriers, or reassembled the marker and its going full auto. It wont even stop when I hold the trigger back.
---I'm not sure if it's RT/X related, or if it's more of a ULT thing, but its not a hard fix. Just get your velocity to teh point where you think it should be, then pull the trigger and let it shoot. You won't be shooting paint of course, but in a few seconds the full auto should stop. After it stop the trigger should be fine, 1 pull, 1 shot. If the full auto goes for more than 10 seconds or so without end, reffer to the "frame screw torque" question, check your on/off pin for correct length and the sear for excessive wear.
OK.... I know that was a long post, but I would have liked to have it when I got my new ULE custom, it's at least a guide. Some simple problems and solutions there, some more complex. All in all, I hope it can save at least one person a little headache. These markers are great and are very simple when you get the hang of it, but just like you felt when you gutted your first tippman or spyder, they can be intimidating at first glance.
Good Luck and Voice your replies, please.
-kyro