The Sear Family....

[Butterfingers]

http://butters.org/DW_C0071.jpg

Ok Got bored and frustrated at the same time:

From top to bottom:

1) This is the sear that I made for my RT after I broke #3 trying to tap the brass bushing out... Its an automag sear with a shaved RTP bushing pressed into it then silver soldered into place for extra measure...

2) Ahh success!!! The shortened ULT anti-chuff sear for automags...

3) The anger management sear... the RTP sear that I broke... At least I got the brass bushing out. Then I proceeded to punish it...

Hit it with an oxy acetylene torch... Realized the metal became soft...

Drilled 2 additional holes in the arm. Easy as pie...

Tried to break off the arm with a hammer, Bent it back and forth, the metal is amazingly ductile after heating.

Posted pics on the intarweb :)

[GT]

Originally posted by Butterfingers

2) Ahh success!!! The shortened ULT anti-chuff sear for automags...



hmmmm...... :D :cool:

[Mag Master 04]

i prolly would have quit half way through sear #1, im quite the lazy one these days

[AGD]

Well if you just ask before breaking out the hammer, we would have told you they were case hardened.

AGD

[Jack & Coke]

Nice!

http://www.nasa.gov/images/content/45641main_kc135.jpg

[Jack & Coke]

Hey Tom,

Have you ever experimented with any sears of various lengths? (i.e. clevis pin positions)

reference: http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=99593&highlight=sear

[Butterfingers]

Originally posted by AGD
Well if you just ask before breaking out the hammer, we would have told you they were case hardened.

AGD

Yeah I knew they were hardened I just didnt realize how hard they were.

I broke 2 cobalt bits... didnt even scratch the surface. Just made a little divot.

I finally figured it out later on in the game...

I isolated the top part of the sear using copper blocks AKA Stacks-0- pennies...

Canadian pennies... US pennies arent copper.

Once it was clamped in place I put the sear "arm" through 2 heating and cooling cycles with the torch. Heated till it was glowing bright sun red/orange. Let the metal cool in air slowly.

Add some oil blast the arm again... bright sun red let the metal cool slowly.

This made a more ductile and softer arm section. Much easier to drill... also more resistant to my hammer... Where the hardened sear just shattered when I hit it with a hammer I could bend the softened arm 45 degrees.

The top isolated section remained as hard as a rock.

[Big'n slo]

FYI Guys, these cut through the sears like butta

http://www.use-enco.com/ProductImages/0097004-11.jpg

1/16 USA CARBIDE MICRO HOLE DRILL
Size (Inch): 1/16
Size (Decimal Inch): .0625"
Material: Solid Carbide
Flute Length (Inch): 5/8
Overall Length (Inch): 1-5/8

Model #304-0000
Low Price: $5.88 ea

[Butterfingers]

I want where did you get?

[Big'n slo]

Sorry, forgot the linky 1/16 USA CARBIDE MICRO HOLE DRILL (http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=304-0000)
:D

[cphilip]

Why don't you just tell everyone you shoot so fast your sears heat up and thats what happens to em? :D

[Butterfingers]

Phil... How did you know ?!?!?

Yeah... Thats what happens when you shoot 5 million BPS...

My prototype wormhole feedsystem works great...

[Jack & Coke]

Originally posted by Butterfingers


Thats what happens when you shoot 5 million BPS...



How about a slow 2,000 BPS ?

http://www.imageshack.us/img1/6410/JNC-2000bps.jpg

:p

[MantisMag]

yeah but is that max or sustained? :p

[robdamanii]

Dang ol man, loader to feed some dang ol thing...man be like..big and zinga-zinga-zinga-zinga dang ol thing man.

/Boomhauer.

[Jack & Coke]

Originally posted by robdamanii
Dang ol man, loader to feed some dang ol thing...man be like..big and zinga-zinga-zinga-zinga dang ol thing man.

/Boomhauer.

http://www.ufcws.org/images/drugs2.jpg

[robdamanii]

Looks like Michael Jackson on the left.