Autococking 98C

[TheHelp98]

I thought of this the other day and was just wondering if anyone had tried it. I am not sure of all the details, so I am looking for input from ya'll. I figured I would save some space her by just linking to my site.http://www.geocities.com/dirtroadkid/crazyidea.html (http://geocities.com/dirtroadkid/crazyidea.html)

[trains are bad]

I have one:cool:

That is, because of my valve mods, when you screw the tank on it cocks itself:D

[warbeak2099]

With extensive modification, lots of time and no life I'm sure you could jerry-rig a closed bolt Tippmann. You'd need pneumatics and some way to mount them and more importantly, make them work. Or you could just have Doc Nickle do it for you. You won't get your gun back for a year and a half, but it'll be the most unique gun on the field when it finally comes back!

[tjmpaintball06]

omg, that would be sweet.

[xen_100]

it would totally work. the only thing I would change is this. you already have a link rod in the gun that links the hammer to the bolt. dont use a back block at all. put the ram on top of the gun and connect it directly to the stock link rod. then slot the hammer so that it will cock it on the back stroke and just slide forward (in the slot) on the forward stroke.

http://xenpb.com/auto98mod.jpg

[TheHelp98]

I had added a back block mainly because I think they look cool, and it was the first way of doing it I thought of. As for the ram on top of the body, I have plans for a sight rail and scope up there so I don't know if it will all fit, but it would save me from having to machine a whole new assembly. I had planned on hiding the ram just where the receiver and the grip come together. It seems very out of the way there.

By the way, XEN_100, I was wondering if I could post your pic on my site, giving you credit of course?

[xen_100]

ya, no problem. it is basically your drawing......i just changed it a bit. :)

you could put the ram on the side of the gun too, instead of on top. you would just have the ram connect to the link rod on the side instead of top. as long as there are no parts in the way, it would work the same way.

I think you wold have a hard time tucking it into the space you are looking at. the sear, sear spring, etc would be in the way, plus you have to have room for the three way in there too. it will get crowded really fast!

[trains are bad]

Just leave the bolt as a blowback. It's gonna blowback anyway unless you make a custom valve that seals to the rear. All you have to do it hook a ram to the front bolt, and a 3 way to the trigger.

[xen_100]

very good point.........add that to the mod list. custom valve.

[TheHelp98]

Trains, thank you, I had completely forgotten about the valve blowing back the hammer. I can not believe that it slipped my mind. Do you think that it would cause a problem if I didn't alter the valve, maybe putting to much force on the hammer or ram? I would rather not mess with the valve, but I guess I could always get a spare if I screwed it up, huh?
Xen, I was thinking about putting the ram on the outside of the body, where it goes from round to flat, not really inside, but on the top is starting to grow on me.

Thanks guys, this really does help.

[trains are bad]

You're either going to have to make a custom valve or just ignore the back half and let it do it's thing. If you leave it as a blowback of course you're not going to gain any effieciency or quietness. But then the whole mod is kind of pointless. I saw a spyder-cocker once and it was a closed bolt blowback as well.

[xen_100]

I have never really looked close at a M98 valve. it there a flat spot on the valve pin (like psyders) that allows the blowback gases to get back there? how does the hammer get blown back on those?

[trains are bad]

Around the valve pin. It is all sealed around the outside and air comes out around the valve pin. I thought about o ringing that, but the material is too thin, the hole too oversize and the pin MAY be tapered. You'd have to machine a new Al valve body that is oringable. Not hard for a good machinist.

[xen_100]

would it seal 'well enough' if a new pin were made that was very close tolerance to the hole in the stock valve? that is what I did with my spyder-cocker and it works great.

[trains are bad]

I don't know you'd just have to try.

[tjmpaintball06]

when you finish, post a video plz, this sounds soo cool.

[TheHelp98]

Sorry guys, I was out of town for the past few days. Kicking some russian commie butt in Madison. GO NEO-VIKINGS. MXS's Proxy War kicked much butt, mainly because we won. Saw many more 'Mags than I thought I would. Xen, I checked out your site, I love that Spyder. Hopefully in the next few weeks, I will get started on my Auto 98C. I stumbled across a used one at Madison for the price of dirt, so now I have something to work on that I don't play with all the time. I guess I will take the valve down and find out what I need to block out the blow-back. I think that will be the first step, everything else kind of depends on that.
Thanks for the help and ideas guys.

[WenULiVeUdiE]

Your going to be short stroking this like crazy. You need a rod to connect the trigger to the 3 way. I didnt see one in your drawing, so I may have missed it. This may make it easier to design. Think of it as trying to fit a cocker in a 98. You may find it to be much simpler to design. Attach a front block with all pnues., then hook it up to the air passage. Then put together a back block for the bolt and a cocking rod. Do all that and you have a cocker inside a 98.

[TheHelp98]

I haven't figured out just where everything is going to go or how I was going to attach the 3-way to the trigger. How would you suggest setting up a front block, and what air passage do you speak of? The one from the vertical to the bottom of the valve?

[xen_100]

nah, do something original. why just have a cocker in a M98 body? I would do it the way you going to at first. put the 3-way in the gripframe.