Lvl 10 + ULT tuning

[warbeak2099]

I'm an indoor player and I'm buying a mag with lvl 10 and ULT kit in it. In the lvl 10 guide on this site, it says that you will need the original mainspring to fire at 250fps for indoor. Is this one of the springs that comes with the lvl 10, or is it the stock spring for an automag? How should I set up/tune ,my lvl 10 and ult for optimum indoor (230-250fps) performance? I don't want to sound lazy, I've been playing for over four years now and I'm pretty comfy with tinkering, but I'd like to know how to get myself squared away before I get the marker so I can get to playing asap. Thanks.

[Chronobreak]

first of all tis an rt vavle right? the ult and lvlX wont work well with a calssic valve the normal spring that comes in the amg wil work if not you can cut one of the lvlX springs youll have to shoot it and break it in for a while too

[warbeak2099]

This is an x-valve, sorry. I wanted to know how many shims I should use with the lvl x and ult, and also what spring I need to use so I can fire at 240-250fps.

[Chronobreak]

the stock spring gold or cut the res spring to length or go buy one as far as the shims ide go with 2 ot so work it in then adjust it as desired

[warbeak2099]

2 shims for the lvl 10 ok, and how many would you suggest for the ult? Also, what length is the stock spring so I can cut one of the lvl 10 springs to that length? Thanks.

[warbeak2099]

Another thing, could someone please explain in laymen's terms what putting different numbers of shims on does? I can't make out what in the world TK is saying in his lvl 10 guide. I would really appreciate it if someone gave a simple explanation about different numbers of shims. Thanks again.

Edit: Nm I read TK's guide more carefully and think I understand it pretty well.
1)I'm going to use the shortest mainspring since I'll be shooting at about 240-250fps.
2)I'll use 2-3 shims on the powertube.
3)I'll use the o-ring carrier that fits snugly.

I still don't know how to tune the ULT though. Lemme read that post and I'll post back if I still don't get how to adjust it right.

[warbeak2099]

I think I've got it. Adding more shims to the ULT increases reactivity and prevents shortstroking. It also increases the trigger pull? Taking them away deacreases reactivity and increase chance of shortstroking but also decreases trigger pull? Am I right?

[Joni]

ULT: More shims, more reactivity. Risk of getting runaway or illegal bounce. Less shims, less reactivity, easier to shortstroke. When you have found the right number of shims, no need to change, whatever velocity you want.

LVL10: More shims makes it vent earlier, easier on the paint (I think. More shims is good anyway). Too many shims makes it leak down the barrel. When you have found the right number of shims, you never need to change it.

The shortest spring you get in the lvl10 package is the same as the lvl7 spring. You always want the longest spring that fires at the desired velocity. I doubt that the longest spring fires at 250, but try the middle(red) spring. If that wont fire, use the smallest.

[CaliMagFan]

the LX and the ULT are 2 systems/shim users-independent of eachother.

joni is exactly right, and to slightly elaborate on what he said...

adding shims to the ult will effectively shorten the length of the on/off pin, thus will increase reactivity. when your x-valve/ult is very new the o-rings are not yet broken in you will get a very bouncy trigger. once the break in of the o-rings in the ult has occured, you'll have to readjust the ammount of ult shims... i have mine at 3 i think, but it can take all 5 now without illegal bounce.

adding shims to the LX powertube will make the point at which the bolt degasses come sooner. this means that when your bolt stops on paint your bolt will reset faster with more shims... the point at which your bolt has too many shims is when you can hear your bolt degassing before it has even fired, then you must decrease the number of shims in the bolt. this number, too, is dependent on the break in period, but not as much as the ult... the LX shims are there because each peice of metal that comes off a mill has slightly different dimensions than the one before it... thus the LX shims to compensate..


-kyro.. read the thread at the link in my sig for more Q&A...

[warbeak2099]

Alright, I get it now. Thanks everyone!

[Raven4000SX]

here's my advice. I know this because I've owned two Level 10 setups. One ReTro Valve with Level 10 and recently bought an X-Valve. On both of them I used the 1.0 carrier and two shims. When I started it was the 1.0 carrier that didn't leak. As I broke it in (something you should do before playing it started leaking. I went down to the next size which was the .5 carrier. I then found that the medium spring works best for me since I play outdoors. For you, use the short spring for indoors.

recap:
1.) start with the 1.0 carrier and break in the o-ring
2.) if it doesn't leak, keep the carrier
3.) Drop in 2 shims
4.) Chrono the marker.

[warbeak2099]

Hey thanks. Now I have exact, simple guidelines to follow. Much better. Man, my mag hasn't even gotten here yet but I'm already feeling at home on this forum. What a great community.