Help new emag owner

[dr_death]

Just got my emag. It was used the guy told me it has a leak. He said it was out the barrel and just need a oring kit. But I just got the gun and gassed it up and it's leaking out the velocity adjustment. Can anyone tell me if it's just a simple oring?

thank you

[tasker89]

A leak from the velocity adjustment plug means that the gun is likely over-pressurized. That is a safety feature built into the gun. Back the velocity adjuster out until the gun is barely firing, get a chrono, then work your way up to the 270-300 fps range. Remember to dry-fire the gun after wach adjustment to settle the regulator piston.

[dr_death]

the gun doesn't even dry-fire. I backed the velocity out and the leak stopped as soon as I screwed it in to try to get it to dry-fire.. But as soon as I get it just turned in a little bit it starts leaking. and wont even dry-fire


thank you

[tasker89]

Just a few quick questions:
Is the gun in mechanical mode or e-mode?
Is the safety off?
When you gas up the gun can you hear the valve charge and does the trigger rod move into position?

[dr_death]

I've tryed it in both mechanical mode and e-mode.
the safety is off.
No I do not hear the valve charge and I'm not sure if the trigger rod moves into position. When I pull the trigger I hear a click if that helps you at all but nothing moves.


thank you

[tasker89]

Let's see if we can get the gun firing in mechnical mode first. Can you give me a full rundown of what your set-up is?
Bottle?
Does the E-mag have a LVL 10 kit?
etc....

[dr_death]

I have a java 45/45 hooked on a remote.
the guy told me it has a level 10 in it. But I'm not sure if there's a way to tell by just looking at the bolt?

I'm on my way to work right now so I'll keep in touch when I get off work..

thank you for all your help

[P8ntballr4life]

The lvl 10 has a rod (w/ a hole in it) sticking about an 1/8 of an inch out the back of the bolt. The regular bolt has a flat back.

As far as your leak. Yes, it is most likely from over-pressurization. I would try a shorter spring and see what happens and check the shims if you have a level 10 installed. Make sure there are two to three flat shims.

-Ian

[dr_death]

I do have a level 10. As far a cutting springs? Is that what you recomend even though I can't dry-fire the gun at all? When I gas it up and pull the trigger all I hear is a click.


thank you

[tasker89]

Not cutting the mainspring...a full LVL 10 kit comes with 3 mainsprings..all different sizes. Here is a short list of possible problems you are facing:
LVL 10 is not installed properly
Trigger Rod is not set properly
Gas obstruction in your hosing preventing the valve from charging
etc..

I would get on the phone with Airgun, or use the troubleshooting tips posted online..

[dr_death]

Thank you guys for all your help. Got it working. It must have been one of the 10 orings I've changed.

Does anyone else have this problem now?

the gun will be working good then all of a sudden nothing. I then put the yellow pin I have in to the battery and it resets. Then it's good for 200 shots or so then it does it again. When it happens you can't see the sear rod.


thank you

[Flossabe]

Do you have a blade trigger or it is a 2 finger trigger, either way it sounds like your trigger is set real wrong, i had this same problem from trying to over tune the trigger pull, if you take the gripframe off and the inside part of the manual mode/electric mode slector there will be a screw, this is your back stop adjuster, or the way to adjust where the trigger stops when you pull it. Back this screw off about 1/2 of a turn and see if that helps, I would help with the other trigger adjustment but I only have experence with a TL 63 trigger, if it says TL 63 on the right side of the trigger let me know and ill exlpain the rest and im sure that some one can tell you about the other triggers. But that should get you working on the stop fireing issue.

Wish I had pics to make it easer but my gun is at AGD

[Pete02019]

...

You mentioned you use a remote. Somebody also mentioned the possibility of an obstruction between the tank and the valve. When you open the tank valve by cranking down on the remote's knob/handle, do you turn it until you hit a physical stop? i.e. the remote's pin bottoms-out the HPA tank's pin valve--either sealing it off or restricting flow.

I use to use a 32-Degrees remote with my classic mag and it did exactly that: closed off my tank when I opened it too much. The process of opening the tank valve would fill the line & gun with HPA, and for one or two shots it would act like it was charged. The work-around was to open it up all the way , then back it off 1/2 a turn or so.

Like I said, in my case it closed the tank, but maybe other cases exist where it doesn't quite close the tank's valve but acts as a restrictor. Not having enough pressure might not allow things to seat and that might allow for leakage.

Just a thought.

[dr_death]

No my tank isn't closed off. I'm getting gas. I'll try the trigger adjustment. It is a double finger trigger not a blade. I looked on the right side of the trigger and do not see TL 63 in fact I don't see anything written on the trigger.

thank you

[Flossabe]

I will look for the thread on how to adjust the stock trigger.

[Flossabe]

check this out http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=83104